I have tons of tiny questions if someone is willing to answer

[nahc]

I plan on purchasing a U-12 1500w D2 Sundown and Cab-22 2200w AMP. Any problems with these?(Stock Electrical Sys)(Aftermarket Radio)(Already have all the wiring setup)

How do I wire it to 1 OHM(someone on reddit told me that) I dont understand OHMs yet.

What is Bridging and will I need to use it? I looked it up, but I still dont fully understand it. If I dont need it then dont worry about telling me.

Does the Bass Knob reduce Wattage pulling from the battery. If I have the knob set to half way will it only be pulling 750w or will it constantly be pulling 1500w?

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EJkEvQyt7e8/learn/car/subwoofers/tuning.html (is this a good guide to tune the AMP?)

If there are any other thing I should know please let me know!

Thank you!

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[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I plan on purchasing a U-12 1500w D2 Sundown and Cab-22 2200w AMP. Any problems with these?(Stock Electrical Sys)(Aftermarket Radio)(Already have all the wiring setup)

You probably have a regular flooded lead acid battery under the hood. Bare minimum, it might be a good idea to replace it with an AGM battery, if it's a few years old. You may need to upgrade your alternator if voltage drop is bad. Install a small volt meter to monitor your electrical.

How do I wire it to 1 OHM(someone on reddit told me that) I dont understand OHMs yet.

What is Bridging and will I need to use it? I looked it up, but I still dont fully understand it. If I dont need it then dont worry about telling me.

Bridging is combining 2 channels of a multichannel amp. The CAB 22 is a monoblock (one channel amp), so you do not have to worry about bridging

Does the Bass Knob reduce Wattage pulling from the battery. If I have the knob set to half way will it only be pulling 750w or will it constantly be pulling 1500w?

Maybe someone else can chime in. On the CAB, I'm not sure if it has a "bass knob" that controls just the "bass boost". I would assume like other good amps, it has a "remote gain" knob that would simply reduce your gain but not exceed the setting on your amp itself. Unless you're burping test tones, it will not be pulling a "constant wattage".

DO NOT use the "bass boost" function on the amp. It's something commonly misused. I understand there is a "time and place" for its use. However, that's for experienced users who are trying to get a more level sound quality, and gains are set with this in mind.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EJkEvQyt7e8/learn/car/subwoofers/tuning.html (is this a good guide to tune the AMP?)

If there are any other thing I should know please let me know!

Thank you!

That is definitely NOT the best guide to tuning an amp that I've ever seen.
I'm surprised crutchfield would publish something like that.

"Play music through your receiver at about one-quarter volume. Turn up the gain of the subwoofer amp until the sound from your subwoofer completely overpowers the other speakers, without distorting." is NOT how I would recommend setting gains.

When you're at normal listening volume, you could be WAY over-driving your sub or amp. Very disappointed in crutchfield.

Also, FORGET about using the bass boost function, if I hadn't made that clear.

There are several good ways to set amp gains. Oscilloscope is great, but I understand that not everyone has access to one. Using a voltage meter is a good way. There are several good guides to that online.

I've used an O-scope in the past, but I honestly just set gains by ear (unless I'm using multiple amps). Be smart about things. If it doesn't sound right, turn it down. If the amp or sub is getting hot, turn it down. If you smell anything, TURN IT DOWN.

 

[nahc]

(Side of the AMP)

Holy **** thank you for all this information I really appreciate it!

1. When tuning i should only mess with those three knobs to the left and obv don’t touch the right two.

2. Let’s say it is pulling to much power that the alternator can handle. how could i limit it to let’s say 1000w or 1200w etc.

3. So you when i’m tuning it I should set the knob all the way then tune with the 3 on the left and just listen for good sound?

Thanks Again!!!

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

1. When tuning i should only mess with those three knobs to the left and obv don’t touch the right two.

Yes. Keep bass boost off.

2. Let’s say it is pulling to much power that the alternator can handle. how could i limit it to let’s say 1000w or 1200w etc.

Yes you can lower the gain to lower power output.

3. So you when i’m tuning it I should set the knob all the way then tune with the 3 on the left and just listen for good sound?

I would set your gain properly and if your electrical can't handle then turn it down. Subsonic filter would depend on your box and port tuning frequency. LPF should be around 80hz.

Thanks Again!!!

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

View attachment 33098
(Side of the AMP)

Holy **** thank you for all this information I really appreciate it!

1. When tuning i should only mess with those three knobs to the left and obv don’t touch the right two.

2. Let’s say it is pulling to much power that the alternator can handle. how could i limit it to let’s say 1000w or 1200w etc.

3. So you when i’m tuning it I should set the knob all the way then tune with the 3 on the left and just listen for good sound?

Thanks Again!!!

No problem, that's what we're here for.

1. Yes, the low pass filter can typically be set around 80hz. Eyeball it and adjust to personal preference and blend with your front speakers. Subsonic is mainly to protect your subs from "unloading" below your tuning frequency. If you have a sealed box, I'd set it around 18-25hz, because the box itself will provide a bit of air "spring". If you have a ported box, you may set it just a bit higher depending on tuning.

2. Lowering the gain will limit the power your amp puts out with a given input signal voltage.

3. Turn your radio volume to just a bit higher than your normal listening volume to set gains. May be a good idea to use a multimeter to set gains until you get a feel for things.

 

[nahc]

Final Question(For Now)

What Box would you recommend near $150? I know boxes are crucial for making the sub sound good, but I really dont wanna spend a lot of money on a box right now!

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

For $150 you will be building your own box.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Yes, $150 won't buy a good custom built box from someone. Don't buy a prefab ported box online. They're usually a bit too small with way too little port area.

If you can't build a box, you could get by with a sealed box until you save up more

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Final Question(For Now)

What Box would you recommend near $150? I know boxes are crucial for making the sub sound good, but I really dont wanna spend a lot of money on a box right now!

Let me design you a box and you can build it. It'll probably be better tuned and sound better for what you want than any box you're going to buy off the shelf.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I really like the U series subs. I think more people should run them.

 

[DRBOOM]

Most stock electrical system will handle 1000rms. if you plan to go more power, then best to upgrade, alternator, battery and do the big 3, in your ride. Then its on to the wiring. 0 gauge,, fused, and then will come your amp and subwoofer(s) Only then, your ride will get good outcome as you have to beef up the electricals before you do the audio installs.