I have an Alpine Type R SWR-12D4 12" and Hilfonis Brutus 1700watt D CLass Amp What...

[basspopo]

What kind of wiring Kit do I need for this setup,

At the moment I have this one being shipped in

Wire Kit:

Amazon.com: Soundquest SQK0 CCA 1/0 Gauge Wiring Kit: Car Electronics

Is this setup a strong ideal combination and with a port box? For rap old school music, with a hint of crisp sound?

AMP

Amazon.com: Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D D-Class Mono Block 1 x 600 @ 4 OHMS, 1 x 1200 @ 2 OHMS, 1 x 1700 @ 1 OHM: Car Electronics

SUB

Amazon.com: Alpine Type-R SWR-12D4 12" 3000 Watt Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer With Staggering Power Handing And Ultra-Responsive Control: Car Electronics

BOX

Amazon.com: R/T 300 Enclosure Series -318-12 Alpine - Single 12-Inch Slot Vented Sub Bass Hatchback Speaker Box with Labyrinth Power Port for Alpine Subs: Car Electronics

WIRE KIT

Amazon.com: Soundquest SQK0 CCA 1/0 Gauge Wiring Kit: Car Electronics

Just shoots me some advice if you have any //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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[basspopo]

Anything helps to be honest, I'd appreciate it

 

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

I think that's too much power on that sub. If you use that amp, I'd go ahead with the 0 gauge invade you ever want to add a sub/upgrade and run it at one ohm. As for the box, have one built for that driver or build one yourself, it makes such a difference. In my opinion it is a complete waste of money to buy a prefab when you could put that towards having one built for you, or build a better one yourself for cheaper.

If I were planning on using that amp, I'd go with an SA12 over the Type-R, for just a little bit more money. It would have no problem handing the power. You could even pick up a B stock (if that doesn't bother you) for the same price.

 

[basspopo]

Well If I just kept what I have is it to much power for my sub? Can this combination work without blowing? Also I assume I'd put it in a 2 ohm, correct me if I'm wrong

ALSO For the record I am currently driving a Cadillac 2008 CTS Fully loaded.

 

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

Yes, you'd have to run that sub at two ohms. I don't know, maybe in a small sealed box and properly set gains you could get away with it, but I don't really see it. That is like double the sub's RMS rating is it not?

 

[basspopo]

Output: 1000 Watts Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coils

Sub peak is 3000watt

RMW is 1000watt

 

[Jmez36hz]

Ya the type R is 600-1000 watt RMS, the RMS rating is the important one for matching a sub to an amp. I've owned... a few of those subs, they sound great and get loud, but distortion will toast them. Make sure you tune it right, especially since as he said u'll want to run the voice coils in parallel, and it will be at 2ohms, so 1200 watts rms will be too much for it, make sure you don't set your gain too high. I found it helpful to break in a sub before pushing it at full rms, the wiring should do the trick just fine. If you know anyone with professional tuning equipment it may be worth getting it tuned professionally, if you push it at 1200 watts all the time it is likely to shorten the life of your woofer.

Just go a little easy on it with that amp and u should be ok. As for the box, It shouldn't be bad at all, at least it is a prefab made for alpine subs, close to 2 cuft, tuned to 38hz should sound good with a type r in it. Bigger wouldn't hurt either tho in my opinion.

 

[basspopo]

I'm bringing it to a professional tuner, possibly get my wiring done by him as well.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

thats not too much power to that sub at all considering the sub is D4. i had that same type R back then on a hifoncs bxi 1610.1D and it handled the power just fine since i kept the signal real clean. The wire kit you suggested is junk. Soundquest is a piece of shi*t wiring company sorry to say. Your better off with 4 gauge oxygen free copper instead of that kit. But if your going for 0 gauge CCA, go with knukonceptz or cadence, or execution audio Execution Audio Blue 1 0 AWG 0 GA Gauge Complete Amp Amplifier Wire Wiring Kit | eBay pretty sure though the brz can only handle up to 2 gauge wire so 0 gauge isnt gonna fit without a 0 to 4 gauge reducer so the 4 gauge oxygen free copper would be a better bet for you.

One thing to note if your taking it to a so called "professional" ask them if they are going to use an oscilloscope or a DD-1 if they refuse to use those tools or dont have them then go look for another shop.

 

[Jmez36hz]

Agreed, proper tuning tools are a must if you want your equipment to last. Clipping... the leading cause of sub-woofer death...

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

Agreed, proper tuning tools are a must if you want your equipment to last. Clipping... the leading cause of sub-woofer death...

Meh. I don't own an Oscope or DD1. I've been setting my amps by ear for 20+years and haven't ever blown a sub/subs. Helps if you're not a dumbass and crank your gain all the way up or use your freaking bass boost or bass knob.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

you never know... some of these shops are real whack jobs that use bass boost knobs... I've read many horror stories of that happening to people.

also op, Ditch the type Rs idea and get this http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/597967-sundown-sa-12-d2.html its a much stronger/durable sub then the type R, set the gains correct and you should be golden.

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

^^^I agree. The Sundown is a lot more of a forgivable "beginner" type sub. They're damn near bullet proof and arguably the best all around sub out there still. I've seen noobs hook em' up wrong, bottom them out, clip the crap out of them, and just generally beat em' and they take it like champs. The Alpine I don't think is going to be that forgiving. Not to mention, in a nice, custom box the SA will beat the R in output and SQ.

 

[Jmez36hz]

Meh. I don't own an Oscope or DD1. I've been setting my amps by ear for 20+years and haven't ever blown a sub/subs. Helps if you're not a dumbass and crank your gain all the way up or use your freaking bass boost or bass knob.

An experienced ear can tune a sub/amp, but the fact of the matter is, to get "perfect" tuning an o-scope is hard to beat. I can get things tuned real real close by ear as well, but i normally tune by ear, then put o-scope on it to double check. It isn't a matter of cockyness, (I'm so good i don't need tools) it is a perfectionist thing. Yes most the time i can tune **** close by ear... but I want my tuning to be perfect. Especially with some stiffer subs it can be very hard to hear the first little bits of clipping, and ya that tiny little bit might not do any damage at all, but if it shortens the subs life even only by a matter of weeks, I've failed my job. On the off chance that it does, I'd rather use equipment for testing to make sure.... Clipping is the enemy, don't even give it a chance.

 

[_dontaskwhy 10+ year member]

think the type r would be alright. if it gets stink just turn it down but definitely get a better wiring kit like the knu one mentioned earlier.