Featured How Much AH for ~ 250 Amps

[Old_Slapper]

Hes not getting that 220 amps at idle tho. When I got the spreadsheet for my 320 amp HO alternator when it was tested, idle output was near 100 amps and the full 320 amps didnt kick in till like 2.2k rpms. You dont need a steady supply to match your amp exactly unless your running full tilt burp sine waves.

As was mentioned, music is dynamic and the average power draw will not always be equal to what its actually capable of at max output. You dont need a HO alt if your battery capitance is sufficient to take a hit and recharge before the next one

Also thag 3 Farad capacitor is doing nothing for a system of that output, especially with a red top.

It's not unequivocal; it's conditional - not everyone, actually, 95% of the people setting up 2k systems are EVER going to need an upgraded alternator, that's a fact, not an opinion.

LifePo4 and Lithium options not only store enough reserve ( and replensish it quickly when not needed), but they will also deliver a burst at much faster rates than a flooded or AGM can, not as fast as a cap, but your 5 farad capacitor, with little to no reserve (and one reason to actually have an HO alt) well, it's tapped out long before a similarly priced LifePo4 battery, not even close.

One has to take into account the balance between the various options, and what works best, which is to say, one is not more "correct" or "incorrect" than the other.

There are considerations with upgrading an alternator, such as different pulley sizes, belt sizes, reduced mileage, and reduced power.

In a Mustang GT, you're not going to notice, so there is that.

It's a far more difficult option, almost impossible in some newer cars, not so much in older ones, due to various electrical functions that are tied to the way it operates.

Additionally, not everyone can get under the hood and change out an alternator, and while I'm fully capable of such, it's locatioin makes it a real PITA for some.

All these options are viable; one is not better than the other, unless the system demands it, and then it's likely going to be a combination of both HO alt and lithium support.

In the 2-3k wattage systems, new battery tech provides an absolutely viable option, an option, and in my experience, that is an easier and often less costly and less labor-intensive option as well.

DOX and Blackout,
I will have to push back on you with this one. I have built and experimented with so many big systems that I was able to see what happens under all conditions. If you want to speak of facts, then I will lay the facts down.

• Manufactures do not install alternators to supply extra power for add-ons. They install what the vehicles needs.
• Do you NEED an upgraded alternator? No! You can dump $1000 into bigger power banks and/or batteries, but I don't give a rip about what you say, that route is just a band aid for a daily driver. The amount of stress that is put on your factory alternator will cause it to fail much sooner.
• Bass is not the only thing that will drain a system. Any loud sound, an amp generates, will draw power a lot of power. Hard hitting bass will drain the most because we tend to tune it to be loud. Pushing 500 watts from your mids and highs is the same as pushing 500 watts from a subwoofer.
• A weak alternator will not recharge a battery faster than some bass hits. What happens when your playing longer bass tunes, and overall loud music, for a longer period of time. The alternator can't keep up. Your battery might appear to be charging, but chances are, it's only a surface charge.
• A high amp alternator will take more power to spin, but only when the system is calling for more power.
• A putting 100 pounds of batteries, in your car, will burn more fuel, overall, than an upgraded alternator.
• You don't need to upgrade your pullies with an upgraded alternator. You only need to do that if you want full amperage at engine idle. Only competition vehicles do that.
• All the professional SPL competitors have multiple alternators in their vehicles? If upgraded alternators are crap, then why do they use them?

Again, guys. I have run 1000 watts off a stock electrical system, a stock alternator with multiple Stinger batteries, stock electrical system with a capacitor, upgraded alternator with standard battery, etc... I literally showed you guys my pictures that shows I am not a backyard wannabe installer. I have installed 100's, if not 1000's, of big systems well over 1000 watts. I have done all this crap in real life at real shops. Some of you personally know the shops I have worked at.

SO, you asked what the best route is? Upgrade your alternator, add a high quality battery near the amps, which a 50ah would be just fine, and add a quality capacitor. AND YES, that 5 farad capacitor, in my son's truck, is helping the system. That's why I don't have any lights flickering, and of course I know the alternator isn't pushing out full amperage at idle. That's MECP 101. You want a tip? When idling, turn your AC on and your RPM's will go up. That will produce a bit more amperage from the alternator.