How to size an Amp?

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bryanmartin

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Hi. Super dumb new-guy question here. I'm wondering how amps are sized. I know they have to match the speakers, but how is the measurement taken?

Say I have two 100watt speakers, and two 150watt speakers:

  • Do I choose an amp to cover the highest possible wattage speaker, in this case a 150watt amp?
  • Or, do I add all the speakers together (150+150+100+100), and buy a 500watt amp?


I'm learning as I go.

Thanks,

Bryan

 
It's simple. Get the most quality power you can. Adjust that power until it reaches your desired output level without overdriving the amplifier. RMS is not a number that has to be meet, it doesn't work that way.

 
Hi. Super dumb new-guy question here. I'm wondering how amps are sized. I know they have to match the speakers, but how is the measurement taken?
Say I have two 100watt speakers, and two 150watt speakers:

  • Do I choose an amp to cover the highest possible wattage speaker, in this case a 150watt amp?
  • Or, do I add all the speakers together (150+150+100+100), and buy a 500watt amp?


I'm learning as I go.

Thanks,

Bryan
hey my name is BRIAN lol.. amps have channels so if u talking about door speakers and amp that has say 75rms-150rms per channel can run those.. if u have say 2 subs 150rms each then u would need either a 2 channel that does 100- 300rms per so per channel at whatever ohm the subs are so if subs are 4 ohm dvc i can wire each sub to 8 ohm and bridge the amp to them and get 250-800rms (maybe) to subs., they way we do it is get a mono channel amp so we look for say a 400-600rms mono amp so each sub would get 200-300rms (over power subs some and set gain low gives u headroom and eliminates need to use bass boost which is just distortion) some guys here run 3500rms to 2 8's, i'm running 930rms to a 600rms sub..

 
if u just have 4 regular speakers u would look for a 4 channel amp with 100rms per channel., we usually don't run rear speakers cause we have subs and want vocals up front (and don't care about rear passengers lol. so u could get 2 channel amp power front speakers with that and run rears off hu..

 
It is always good to start with brand/model of what you're working with.

When using different speakers with one amp I always try to make sure the higher quality speakers are powered optimally since you would logically want them to perform as well as possible. If that means over-powering the other speakers -- fine, reduce the gain for those speakers a little and they should work w/o any trouble.

The limit on TOO much power is extremely high. In about any case you can just "gain down" the amp a little and make it work - and doing so will help the amp will run comfortably for a very long time.

 
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It is always good to start with brand/model of what you're working with.
When using different speakers with one amp I always try to make sure the higher quality speakers are powered optimally since you would logically want them to perform as well as possible. If that means over-powering the other speakers -- fine, reduce the gain for those speakers a little and they should work w/o.

The limit on TOO much power is extremely high. In about any case you can just "gain down" the amp a little and make it work - and doing so will help the amp will run comfortably for a very long time.
this statement is the one i agree with the most. Its very difficult to overpower a speaker that isnt already damaged at all and has the correct frequencies put to it. Backing the gain off a more powerful, yet quality amplifier is a good option as it yields headroom. That being said, getting an amp thatll do more than 100x4 at 4 ohms per channel means that youd be getting into a pretty serious amp as most quality full range amps are class A/B which has a larger footprint per watt than class d.

 
this statement is the one i agree with the most. Its very difficult to overpower a speaker that isnt already damaged at all and has the correct frequencies put to it. Backing the gain off a more powerful, yet quality amplifier is a good option as it yields headroom. That being said, getting an amp thatll do more than 100x4 at 4 ohms per channel means that youd be getting into a pretty serious amp as most quality full range amps are class A/B which has a larger footprint per watt than class d.
DD SS, NVX JAD, Hertz, Hybrid, JL XD and HD, Focal, Mosconi Gladen, Zapco ST, Alpine PDX.

Hell I think there's more Quality Class D full ranges then A/B now. It's at least even.

 
DD SS, NVX JAD, Hertz, Hybrid, JL XD and HD, Focal, Mosconi Gladen, Zapco ST, Alpine PDX. Hell I think there's more Quality Class D full ranges then A/B now. It's at least even.
youre right, like usual //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif im just so used to the school of old with the A/B circuitry. Maybe its just the tennis balls on my 4 leg walker showing, but i do love the sound of the A/B stuff

 
youre right, like usual //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif im just so used to the school of old with the A/B circuitry. Maybe its just the tennis balls on my 4 leg walker showing, but i do love the sound of the A/B stuff
You would love D if you heard it in a good install. Or G/H or A or whatever.

 
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