how to run a second batt

[southport2014 10+ year member]

how to run a second batt? pic would be nice

Click to read more...

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

you just connect the front and rear battery together with a power wire. 1/0 gauge

it's best if you ground them together also. but if you can't. just ground the trunk battery to the frame. and make sure the front battery is grounded to the frame.

that is literally how easy it is.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

Put a fuse within 18" of the first and 18" of the second, either 250 or 300a

 

[southport2014 10+ year member]

do ineed a fuse for the back ? or atleast can i do without for a few and how many watts can a 250 a fuse use cause i wanna upgrade my aq2200 to a 3500 soon

 

[rebelfromva 10+ year member]

Pod to pis neg to neg. fuses if from front to back batt. It's simple

 

---------- Post added at 10:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 PM ----------

 

Fuses don't use watts and your going to need a ho alt on that 3500

 

---------- Post added at 10:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:12 PM ----------

 

250 for cca 300 for ofc on 0g

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

This 250 and 350 fuse at the front and at the rear.

 

[rebelfromva 10+ year member]

This 250 and 350 fuse at the front and at the rear.

Wtf would you run 2 different size fuses on the same wire?

 

[southport2014 10+ year member]

i have a xs power d3100 is that good enough electrical fo rnow ? they rated 4k-5k

 

[cdc351jeferson 10+ year member]

I run a 3500 aq yiu need a alt i got pics in my build log if those will help but its just +t to + - to - fuse on power before each battery

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

Sorry no was tryingto watch American Horror Story and type. Was supposed to be 250 or 300 not and lol. Follow what was mentioned earlier...250 for CCA and 300 for OFC.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

You are definitely going to need a HO alt and a coue batteries if you are hoping to pull 3000+. If not you are going to drop too low and rn a high risk of damaging your car and equipment.

 

[AxT4430 10+ year member]

what about the need for battery isolator so your alternator isnt trying to charge both batter simultaneously. I thought isolators, magically, made one battery of primary concern and the other second concern, in respect to charging..

edit: @keep_hope_alive; ( for da giggles ) ---> @SkarAudio; @pro\-rabbit;

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

[quote name='AxT4430']what about the need for battery isolator so your alternator isnt trying to charge both batter simultaneously. I thought isolators, magically, made one battery of primary concern and the other second concern, in respect to charging..

edit: @keep_hope_alive; ( for da giggles ) ---> @SkarAudio; @pro\-rabbit;[/QUOTE]

Is that you bob saget or smitty? Lol


Well obviously ignore what he said. A battery isolator is only used if you plan on playing your system with the car off. DON'T DO THAT.

Fuses aren't rated by watts. There by amps. Generally a 250 amp fuse should allow 2500-3000 watts. Fuses only pop if a large surge goes through it. Otherwise they just burn slowly if you are putting my current through them than they are rated for.

You only need a fuse @ the rear battery .within 18" of the amplifier. And a good idea is. To put a fuse between your alterntor. But if its stock. Then don't worry about it. You can but it won't hurt anything.

If you plan on upgrading to the 3500. You better do 2 runs of that CCA wire. Its max amps is 250. The aq 3500.1 should pull about 350+ amps.

And the best way to know if you need to beef up your electrical is to check what the voltage drops too on a heavy bass note. Always stay 13+
And definitely get a HO alternator for the 3500.1. Batteries are not going to increase voltage, just reserve and stabilize voltage. You need a proper alternator for that much power.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

isolators aren't a bad idea - when they isolate the battery when the car is off. that prevents the two from draining each other, but puts strain when they are eventually connected. ideally, you'd have an isolator and two voltage gauges at the dash. you'd verify they were close in resting voltage before you start and have a switch to prevent parallel if you had an issue. that's how i would do it anyway.

you need the alternator to charge both. so they have to be connected when the car is running.

you don't want the diode based isolators because they introduce a voltage drop and waste heat. the relay style of isolator is fine if properly installed.

and yes, fusing on every wire leaving the positive terminal of a battery.

 

[AxT4430 10+ year member]

Is that you bob saget or smitty? Lol

Well obviously ignore what he said. A battery isolator is only used if you plan on playing your system with the car off. DON'T DO THAT.

Fuses aren't rated by watts. There by amps. Generally a 250 amp fuse should allow 2500-3000 watts. Fuses only pop if a large surge goes through it. Otherwise they just burn slowly if you are putting my current through them than they are rated for.

You only need a fuse @ the rear battery .within 18" of the amplifier. And a good idea is. To put a fuse between your alterntor. But if its stock. Then don't worry about it. You can but it won't hurt anything.

If you plan on upgrading to the 3500. You better do 2 runs of that CCA wire. Its max amps is 250. The aq 3500.1 should pull about 350+ amps.

And the best way to know if you need to beef up your electrical is to check what the voltage drops too on a heavy bass note. Always stay 13+

And definitely get a HO alternator for the 3500.1. Batteries are not going to increase voltage, just reserve and stabilize voltage. You need a proper alternator for that much power.

A. No, im neither.

B. WHY did you think so?

C.Thanks, didnt know that, I was told wrong by a shop then.. fml

D. I love you now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif