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how to run a second batt
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<blockquote data-quote="jockhater2" data-source="post: 7909818" data-attributes="member: 636023"><p>[quote name='AxT4430']what about the need for battery isolator so your alternator isnt trying to charge both batter simultaneously. I thought isolators, magically, made one battery of primary concern and the other second concern, in respect to charging..</p><p></p><p>edit: [USER=576029]@keep_hope_alive[/USER]; ( for da giggles ) ---&gt; [USER=627113]@SkarAudio[/USER]; @pro\-rabbit;</p></blockquote><p></p><p>Is that you bob saget or smitty? Lol</p><p></p><p></p><p>Well obviously ignore what he said. A battery isolator is only used if you plan on playing your system with the car off. DON&#39;T DO THAT.</p><p></p><p>Fuses aren&#39;t rated by watts. There by amps. Generally a 250 amp fuse should allow 2500-3000 watts. Fuses only pop if a large surge goes through it. Otherwise they just burn slowly if you are putting my current through them than they are rated for.</p><p></p><p>You only need a fuse @ the rear battery .within 18" of the amplifier. And a good idea is. To put a fuse between your alterntor. But if its stock. Then don&#39;t worry about it. You can but it won&#39;t hurt anything.</p><p></p><p>If you plan on upgrading to the 3500. You better do 2 runs of that CCA wire. Its max amps is 250. The aq 3500.1 should pull about 350+ amps.</p><p></p><p>And the best way to know if you need to beef up your electrical is to check what the voltage drops too on a heavy bass note. Always stay 13+</p><p>And definitely get a HO alternator for the 3500.1. Batteries are not going to increase voltage, just reserve and stabilize voltage. You need a proper alternator for that much power.</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="jockhater2, post: 7909818, member: 636023"] [quote name='AxT4430']what about the need for battery isolator so your alternator isnt trying to charge both batter simultaneously. I thought isolators, magically, made one battery of primary concern and the other second concern, in respect to charging.. edit: [USER=576029]@keep_hope_alive[/USER]; ( for da giggles ) ---> [USER=627113]@SkarAudio[/USER]; @pro\-rabbit;[/QUOTE] Is that you bob saget or smitty? Lol Well obviously ignore what he said. A battery isolator is only used if you plan on playing your system with the car off. DON'T DO THAT. Fuses aren't rated by watts. There by amps. Generally a 250 amp fuse should allow 2500-3000 watts. Fuses only pop if a large surge goes through it. Otherwise they just burn slowly if you are putting my current through them than they are rated for. You only need a fuse @ the rear battery .within 18" of the amplifier. And a good idea is. To put a fuse between your alterntor. But if its stock. Then don't worry about it. You can but it won't hurt anything. If you plan on upgrading to the 3500. You better do 2 runs of that CCA wire. Its max amps is 250. The aq 3500.1 should pull about 350+ amps. And the best way to know if you need to beef up your electrical is to check what the voltage drops too on a heavy bass note. Always stay 13+ And definitely get a HO alternator for the 3500.1. Batteries are not going to increase voltage, just reserve and stabilize voltage. You need a proper alternator for that much power. [/QUOTE]
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