how to run a 2nd bat.

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

The cause of the dimming is the excitation of the stator to a full field.
A transient load doesn't necessarily cause the voltage regulator to cycle to field to a full excitation. It relative to alternator output potential at a given stator speed vs load x duration. The actual reaction of the alternator to the faster regulator is around 5-10ms.

I hope that's easy enough for you to understand

i hope its easy for you to understand that its AT LEAST THAT long with each fluctuation. you are also leaving out a few details...but hey you are the genius everyone that knows anything disagrees with and on a few points have been totally wrong...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[Thnking 10+ year member]

i hope its easy for you to understand that its AT LEAST THAT long with each fluctuation. you are also leaving out a few details...but hey you are the genius everyone that knows anything disagrees with and on a few points have been totally wrong...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Wrong again...

The collapsing and expanding of the field is in proportion to the load. Duration of that excitation is limited by reaction rate, and in proportion to current generated by that excitation in the wires. So the cycling of the field is dependent on load vs current output per field. It doesn't need to follow load, voltage regulators don't necessarily adjust field duty in that manner.

And I never claimed to be a genius, but it's obvious you have little technical knowledge in these fields and base your claims on subjectivism... but don't worry, there's nothing wrong with that.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

so you are saying an alt/ voltage regulator reacting isn't slow? your fields don't mean anything if power doesn't get from point A (alt) to point B(audio system)... lol you can say I'm not "technical" but over the the schemes of everything i see you type about you figure out pieces without putting the whole pie together.a car with a dieing battery can have a 200 amp alt in that car turn on a 20 amp heater fan from off to full blast it will cause the lights to dim as the electrical system adjusts... if you are right about how much the alt does and how fast it is then it wouldn't dim at all.. some people actually put large caps in conjunction to an alt to help smooth these effects(and not by the amps..im talking under the hood). common sense along some lines is all you need..no need to get techy. you have said amps(in another thread) don't get hurt by low voltage. Then you noticed they had low voltage protection and claimed that would save them.... it does about 1/2 the time even if it does shut off the amp I'm pretty sure its stressed something enough to effect the amp.. but thats all basic applied ohm's law cause and effect.....and you went off on some tangent about the insides of an amp (was totally pointless pretty much the same as we have here). its kind of like saying we all need to know what joules are and copper's atomic structure to hook up a stereo when in fact we dont..

 

[Exploder 97 10+ year member]

so hopefully you 2 queifs are done crying at each other,, does it make a big difference if you have a battery in the trunk... does it help voltage drop or no? ive read every page and didnt learn shit besides these 2 guys *****in at each other about god knows what

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

Lol, i had a good laugh at this one.

Real world>Thnking

I love it when people talk out of their *** with this mumbo jumbo fancy scientology terminology.

 

[Crzy 10+ year member]

hmm well i put a yellow top in the back and my dimming is gone and voltage drops are obsolete off my stock 90a alt and me running eh like 2000wrms something around there

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

so hopefully you 2 queifs are done crying at each other,, does it make a big difference if you have a battery in the trunk... does it help voltage drop or no? ive read every page and didnt learn shit besides these 2 guys *****in at each other about god knows what

dont start on me about this.... unless you like misinformation. a battery in back will help with voltage in 2 ways. from front to back (alt to the amps) the voltage will be higher (usually .5-1 v) and the capacity of the battery in back provides a nice safty net. alts and batteries cant do everything by themselves. together they work great (they were designed to do this lol) . in alot of cases though a second battery added to a stock alt (90-on up) can help power systems...now its dependant on the size of the system (im not talking 10,000 watts more like 1500-2000) when you approach 3000 or more watts its definately time to get a bigger alt. your results may differ but from what i KNOW 120 amp alt and 2 deep cycle batteries (1 up front 1 in back) and doing the big 3 propperly is enough for 2000 watts of a/b power under normal conditions.

 

[Thnking 10+ year member]

so you are saying an alt/ voltage regulator reacting isn't slow? your fields don't mean anything if power doesn't get from point A (alt) to point B(audio system)...

The regulator and alternator isn’t slow reacting in relation to the load causing dimming. Alternator’s react as fast as 5ms, regulators react as much as 10x as fast as that.

Again it’s the excitation to a full field and related resistance causing the Vdrop.

The altering of the field itself causing varying current isn’t significantly going to cause a voltage drop, as the regulator already adjusts the output based on a preset Vdrop at the diodes + misc resistances.

lol you can say I'm not "technical" but over the the schemes of everything i see you type about you figure out pieces without putting the whole pie together.a car with a dieing battery can have a 200 amp alt in that car turn on a 20 amp heater fan from off to full blast it will cause the lights to dim as the electrical system adjusts... if you are right about how much the alt does and how fast it is then it wouldn't dim at all..

That’s because typically the serpentine belt runs the fan as well, so there is a change in mechanical transfer in energy to the alternator causing the Vdrop.

some people actually put large caps in conjunction to an alt to help smooth these effects(and not by the amps..im talking under the hood). common sense along some lines is all you need..no need to get techy. you have said amps(in another thread) don't get hurt by low voltage. Then you noticed they had low voltage protection and claimed that would save them.... it does about 1/2 the time even if it does shut off the amp I'm pretty sure its stressed something enough to effect the amp.. but thats all basic applied ohm's law cause and effect.....and you went off on some tangent about the insides of an amp (was totally pointless pretty much the same as we have here). its kind of like saying we all need to know what joules are and copper's atomic structure to hook up a stereo when in fact we dont..

I’m not getting anywhere as technical as you’re claiming. I’m telling you why you’re wrong, and why it’s pointless in many cases where it’s blindly recommend to add batteries or add caps or etc… And don’t forget you started the debate on the alternator field excitation, if you didn't want to get techincal you shouldn't have started to question my explanation. There’s no way for some of this not to be technical

I can sit here all day and say no you’re wrong I’ve seen X many people add batteries and still have huge dimming problems, or I’ve seen X many people relocate their battery to the back and see no noticeable difference, but it’s not going to mean anything because it’s purely non-backed up non-controlled information.

99/100 times low voltage isn’t going to damage anything (amplifier circuitry doesn’t operate in a linear power output fashion), and you’re misrepresenting ohm’s law. If V drops I doesn’t increase in proportion to maintain the same P. P is variable.

 

[Thnking 10+ year member]

so hopefully you 2 queifs are done crying at each other,, does it make a big difference if you have a battery in the trunk... does it help voltage drop or no? ive read every page and didnt learn shit besides these 2 guys *****in at each other about god knows what

Not if your wiriing is up to par.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

The regulator and alternator isn’t slow reacting in relation to the load causing dimming. Alternator’s react as fast as 5ms, regulators react as much as 10x as fast as that.Again it’s the excitation to a full field and related resistance causing the Vdrop.

The altering of the field itself causing varying current isn’t significantly going to cause a voltage drop, as the regulator already adjusts the output based on a preset Vdrop at the diodes + misc resistances.

That’s because typically the serpentine belt runs the fan as well, so there is a change in mechanical transfer in energy to the alternator causing the Vdrop.

I’m not getting anywhere as technical as you’re claiming. I’m telling you why you’re wrong, and why it’s pointless in many cases where it’s blindly recommend to add batteries or add caps or etc… And don’t forget you started the debate on the alternator field excitation, if you didn't want to get techincal you shouldn't have started to question my explanation. There’s no way for some of this not to be technical

I can sit here all day and say no you’re wrong I’ve seen X many people add batteries and still have huge dimming problems, or I’ve seen X many people relocate their battery to the back and see no noticeable difference, but it’s not going to mean anything because it’s purely non-backed up non-controlled information.

99/100 times low voltage isn’t going to damage anything (amplifier circuitry doesn’t operate in a linear power output fashion), and you’re misrepresenting ohm’s law. If V drops I doesn’t increase in proportion to maintain the same P. P is variable.

you should rewrite the mecp ..and amps dont need voltage protection my god you are sweettt! and even in VERY well made amps return rate in the industry is over 1% lol

 

[Thnking 10+ year member]

LOL, you're comparing MECP certs to audio engineering...

LOL, and amp return rates aren't a representation of damage to an amplifier due to undervoltage damage.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

sureee mecp = real world (i'm an eet) so i know how some engineers can be especially when they dont apply things to the REAL WORLD. batteries serve 3 purposes in an car electrical system.

1. Start the vehicle

2. Stabilize the electrical system* (my guess is you dont have a clue by how much)

3. Provide reserve

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

LOL, you're comparing MECP certs to audio engineering...
LOL, and amp return rates aren't a representation of damage to an amplifier due to undervoltage damage.

according to alot of manufactures a poor electrical system=death to the amp. poor electrical isnt going to give it a voltage increase.......//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

so hopefully you 2 queifs are done crying at each other,, does it make a big difference if you have a battery in the trunk... does it help voltage drop or no? ive read every page and didnt learn shit besides these 2 guys *****in at each other about god knows what

then learn more about what we were talking about //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif and if you knew enough to cry yourself then quit your b!tchin lol

 

[Thnking 10+ year member]

sureee mecp = real world (i'm an eet) so i know how some engineers can be especially when they dont apply things to the REAL WORLD. batteries serve 3 purposes in an car electrical system.
1. Start the vehicle

2. Stabilize the electrical system* (my guess is you dont have a clue by how much)

3. Provide reserve

MECP is a glorified installer degree. Nothing else, don't get your panties in a bunch though, that's not an insult.

It's pretty obvious that you have basic knowledge of an electrical system, that’s it.

I don't really care what you believe my experience is. All my "technical knowledge" comes from real world experimentation. When I went through college to receive my degrees, I didn't sit in a classroom all day and theorize about electronics...since I've been in the working world for around 4 years I haven't been sitting at a desk theorizing electronics…//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

according to alot of manufactures a poor electrical system=death to the amp. poor electrical isnt going to give it a voltage increase.......

Car electronics are built for unstable DC....your statements are far from the truth. Again, people use real world experimentation to design electronics...which is based on varying conditions under set physics guidelines.

And according to who...where’s the information on this?