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how to run a 2nd bat.
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<blockquote data-quote="Thnking" data-source="post: 2449022" data-attributes="member: 571105"><p>The regulator and alternator isn’t slow reacting in relation to the load causing dimming. Alternator’s react as fast as 5ms, regulators react as much as 10x as fast as that.</p><p></p><p>Again it’s the excitation to a full field and related resistance causing the Vdrop.</p><p></p><p>The altering of the field itself causing varying current isn’t significantly going to cause a voltage drop, as the regulator already adjusts the output based on a preset Vdrop at the diodes + misc resistances.</p><p></p><p>That’s because typically the serpentine belt runs the fan as well, so there is a change in mechanical transfer in energy to the alternator causing the Vdrop.</p><p></p><p>I’m not getting anywhere as technical as you’re claiming. I’m telling you why you’re wrong, and why it’s pointless in many cases where it’s blindly recommend to add batteries or add caps or etc… And don’t forget you started the debate on the alternator field excitation, if you didn't want to get techincal you shouldn't have started to question my explanation. There’s no way for some of this not to be technical</p><p></p><p>I can sit here all day and say no you’re wrong I’ve seen X many people add batteries and still have huge dimming problems, or I’ve seen X many people relocate their battery to the back and see no noticeable difference, but it’s not going to mean anything because it’s purely non-backed up non-controlled information.</p><p></p><p>99/100 times low voltage isn’t going to damage anything (amplifier circuitry doesn’t operate in a linear power output fashion), and you’re misrepresenting ohm’s law. If V drops I doesn’t increase in proportion to maintain the same P. P is variable.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Thnking, post: 2449022, member: 571105"] The regulator and alternator isn’t slow reacting in relation to the load causing dimming. Alternator’s react as fast as 5ms, regulators react as much as 10x as fast as that. Again it’s the excitation to a full field and related resistance causing the Vdrop. The altering of the field itself causing varying current isn’t significantly going to cause a voltage drop, as the regulator already adjusts the output based on a preset Vdrop at the diodes + misc resistances. That’s because typically the serpentine belt runs the fan as well, so there is a change in mechanical transfer in energy to the alternator causing the Vdrop. I’m not getting anywhere as technical as you’re claiming. I’m telling you why you’re wrong, and why it’s pointless in many cases where it’s blindly recommend to add batteries or add caps or etc… And don’t forget you started the debate on the alternator field excitation, if you didn't want to get techincal you shouldn't have started to question my explanation. There’s no way for some of this not to be technical I can sit here all day and say no you’re wrong I’ve seen X many people add batteries and still have huge dimming problems, or I’ve seen X many people relocate their battery to the back and see no noticeable difference, but it’s not going to mean anything because it’s purely non-backed up non-controlled information. 99/100 times low voltage isn’t going to damage anything (amplifier circuitry doesn’t operate in a linear power output fashion), and you’re misrepresenting ohm’s law. If V drops I doesn’t increase in proportion to maintain the same P. P is variable. [/QUOTE]
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