How long can i run peak power

[Mr.D]

Hello I have 2 12 kicker L7s. RMS power is 1500w and peak is 3000w. My question is how long can I safely run the peak power? I feel like the 1500 watts is not enough but it's OK for regular use. When I give it the 3000 watts it really shines but I'm scared for how long I can keep it there. Just trying to show off for a minute or 2. Would like some input on this as I'm fairly new to this. Thanks in advance!

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[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Peak power is largely a bogus rating, it really doesn't mean anything.

Kickers really shine in big boxes. You put those subs in a 5-6 cubic foot or so net box, they'll be way louder. I'd be willing to bet that box airspace is only like 2 cubes or less per woofer, probably closer to the minimal airspace. Not sure though. Kicker's typically don't need a ton of port area, and typically really do better with a lot of airspace. Those square Kickers act more like a 13.5" woofer, or a small box 15" round woofer, as far as cone area goes. The L7 15's are almost or close to the cone area of a round 18. I've done so many L5 and L7 12's in 2.5-3 cubes per woofer, and they get very very loud. So, you don't necessarily need more power, maybe you need a bigger box so the subs can actually move around more, like they're designed to.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

A few of my L7 designs


We built and installed this one. I'll never forget this, I was 21 when I designed this box. The dude who we built it for, came back after the subs broke in some and we turned his amp up to full power. He got there, saw me hanging out, and he said to the shop owner, "That guy knows what he's doing."

Some people have never heard a proper sub box before, and they are surprised at what their woofers can do.

It's 3 L3 12's in like 2.25 per sub or so, did this 8 years ago:

Another 3 L7 12's:

4 L7 12's:

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

If you can measure your box some, I can tell you if you could make a better one.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Kickers are typically savage in bandpass 4th orders, so you could consider a 4th order bandpass on some decent power with a port firing into the cabin, just food for thought

 

[Mr.D]

If you can measure your box some, I can tell you if you could make a better one.

Hey thanks for your input, it's a factory kicker box tuned to 25hz and the measurements are 33-3/4"W x 16"H x 19-1/2". Are you saying I should try facing the port towards the cabin? Also how long do you think I can run it at peak power without blowing them? I'm sure the ratings for these subs are on point.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Peak power is a gimmick. RMS is all that matters.

What amp are you using on them that you are able to dial in 1500 and 3000 watts?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Hey thanks for your input, it's a factory kicker box tuned to 25hz and the measurements are 33-3/4"W x 16"H x 19-1/2". Are you saying I should try facing the port towards the cabin? Also how long do you think I can run it at peak power without blowing them? I'm sure the ratings for these subs are on point.

Good lord if that box is tuned to 25 hz. I'm not sure I believe that is the case. Maybe 35 hz.

I'm just saying, peak power doesn't mean anything. It's a made up number in almost every case, and it's usually double the RMS. It's just a marketing gimmick, largely.

If you read what I said, I said you probably need a larger box if you want those subs to play better. Pre-made boxes are made in the smallest way possible, often too small, so that you think you're getting a good 2 12's setup in your vehicle, when really, it's usually far from optimal.

 

[Mr.D]

Peak power is a gimmick. RMS is all that matters.

What amp are you using on them that you are able to dial in 1500 and 3000 watts?

I have 2 rockville db15. One supposedly gives it its RMS but I don't feel like it's hitting like it's supposed to. But the volts on the amp are on point I can give it 54.7 without clipping. It clipps right after that so I know it's doing its rated power

 

[Mr.D]

Good lord if that box is tuned to 25 hz. I'm not sure I believe that is the case. Maybe 35 hz.

I'm just saying, peak power doesn't mean anything. It's a made up number in almost every case, and it's usually double the RMS. It's just a marketing gimmick, largely.

If you read what I said, I said you probably need a larger box if you want those subs to play better. Pre-made boxes are made in the smallest way possible, often too small, so that you think you're getting a good 2 12's setup in your vehicle, when really, it's usually far from optimal.

That's what Crutchfield said lol, but I cannot go any bigger it takes up literally every inch of space in my trunk with a 3 inch headroom from the port to the trunk lid. I don't know what's wrong. It just doesn't hit right till I give it more power.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Those subwoofers are D2 ohms and are wired to a two ohm load right? You have two 2 ohm stable amps. Did you strap the two amps?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

That's what Crutchfield said lol, but I cannot go any bigger it takes up literally every inch of space in my trunk with a 3 inch headroom from the port to the trunk lid. I don't know what's wrong. It just doesn't hit right till I give it more power.

If the box is really tuned to 25 hz, then you're losing tons of output for what you're probably playing.

The box is too small, I would bet, so the woofers want a lot of power to sound better, because there's too little air to compress inside of the box, and the subs have a hard time moving like they should. Basically the woofers stop moving because the air becomes more dense than the RMS power is able to force the cone of the woofer through. I might be able to make you an even better box than what you have now, still keeping that same space.

At least measure the outsides of the box, and I can tell you for sure if the box is the problem, so you'll understand what is actually going on.

 

[Mr.D]

Those subwoofers are D2 ohms and are wired to a two ohm load right? You have two 2 ohm stable amps. Did you strap the two amps?

Yes the subs are actually 4 ohm wired to 2 ohm load from factory. The amps strapped and 2 ohm stable

 

[Mr.D]

If the box is really tuned to 25 hz, then you're losing tons of output for what you're probably playing.

The box is too small, I would bet, so the woofers want a lot of power to sound better, because there's too little air to compress inside of the box, and the subs have a hard time moving like they should. Basically the woofers stop moving because the air becomes more dense than the RMS power is able to force the cone of the woofer through. I might be able to make you an even better box than what you have now, still keeping that same space.

At least measure the outsides of the box, and I can tell you for sure if the box is the problem, so you'll understand what is actually going on.

The box is 33-3/4"W x 16"H x 19-1/2" and it's loaded. It's huge and weighs a ton. This is the link to the subs and box.

https://www.kicker.com/solo-baric-l7s-loaded-enclosures

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

If each side is .75" thick, that's 4.4 cubes or so internally (with the wedge), hard to tell how it's layered together. So I'd say you're even less than 4 cubes net, probably like 3.5. I think the minimum box size is 1.75 cubes, and 25 hz port will be long, but it is a slightly smaller port area, still gonna take up room being at 25 hz, if that's true. So that small box size is limiting the cone travel of the L7's, IMO.

That box is probably minimal for everything, and that's why it makes minimal sound. You can do whatever you want, your box isn't gonna be good unless you change it. You can waste money buying amps and whatever, or you could just make a proper enclosure or fit subs that will work in a proper enclosure.

I hate to break it to people like that, prefabs are usually a rip off. I've heard some very loud Kicker prefabs, but they are literally the bare minimum of what that woofer needs, and that's why you're having the problems that you are. Those subs need like 50% more airspace than they have.