Is this even possible? ...newbie


bailecz

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 18, 2021
5
0
Birmingham
I'm planning to buy my first aftermarket system at the age of 45. While I'm a huge home audiophile, car audio is new to me.
My local shop proposed the system below, but I cant decipher how it would even work with a 5 channel amp.
I feel like this amp will not provide enough power.
Can you provide opinions?
Or what type of amp strategy would be ideal to achieve best sound?
  • Kenwood Touchscreen headunit (already have)
  • Amp - Kenwood X802.5: 5 channel: 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
  • Door Speakers - Memphis Audio 15-MCX 60: 50 watts RMS - 100 watts Peak
  • Extra set of tweeters - Memphis Audio MSA1: 75 watts RMS - 150 watts Peak
  • (2) Subs - Memphis Audio PRXS 1040: 350 watts - Peak 700 watts at 4 ohms (each in small box)
This would be going into a 1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo. Small 2 seater.
 

Popwarhomie

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I mean it will work but if you are a huge audiophile that setup is not going to impress you at all. Adding another set of tweeters to coaxial speakers is not a good idea either.

Do you have a budget? Since you are an audiophile I'm guessing you have the know how to tune crossover points, eq, and time align?
 
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bailecz

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 18, 2021
5
0
Birmingham
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
I mean it will work but if you are a huge audiophile that setup is not going to impress you at all. Adding another set of tweeters to coaxial speakers is not a good idea either.

Do you have a budget? Since you are an audiophile I'm guessing you have the know how to tune crossover points, eq, and time align?
Unfortunately I dont have that know how. Im not expecting pure class A tube sound. :) But I do expect a decent system with good clean bass. Having said that, Im not trying to rattle cars next to me. I do primarily listen to rap.

I was mainly concerned with this 5 channel amp driving 6 speakers. Perhaps the shop will drive 1 set off my headunit alone? How else could this even be possible?
 

Popwarhomie

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The subwoofers are wired together in mono to the 5th channel.

Honestly I would go a completely different direction.
 

bailecz

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 18, 2021
5
0
Birmingham
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  • #5
Ok. I assume wiring them together in mono would send 250watts to each sub? (I feel like that would not be enough.)
What amp strategy do you recommend?
 

Popwarhomie

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On paper yes 250 per subwoofer.

A 5 channel amp is fine. Coaxial speakers with a second set of tweeters is the issue.

I personally would at least upgrade to a set of components for the front. Ditch the second set of tweeters.

A couple budget sets


 
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metalheadjoe

Registered User
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Oct 21, 2007
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How much space do you have in that vehicle? I know they are mid-engine and tiny.
 

bailecz

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 18, 2021
5
0
Birmingham
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
x2 on the tweeter comments. All you need is a good component set in there, just 2 tweeters and 2 components, unless you do a dedicated midbass.
Understood. I believe those 6.5" door speakers are 'convertable' coaxials.....the tweeter can be removed from the mid and placed elsewhere. (Sounded odd to me, but I do see this bizarre functionality on their website.) So I assume doing so would achieve your recommendation. ?
 

hispls

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Sep 10, 2009
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Central Maine
While I'm a huge home audiophile,
It is extremely simple to get good stereo sound in a nice big cube shaped room with plenty of room for speaker cabinets. Not so much in a car, less so in a tiny car.

Assuming you buy efficient components 50W a side is going to do plenty and 600W for a sub channel is going to be plenty for most folks (I get by with 300W sub channels in 2 of my vehicles and it's enough to keep up with 100W fronts).

There used to be a fella around here that ran a whole Memphis build and it was pretty nice. I think more important than the brand is just to stay out of the rock bottom entry level lines. Component speakers rather than co-axial would give you the best sound up front and I'd suggest finding some higher end components that you can bi-amp (run 2 channels to mids and 2 channels to tweets) you can dial in gains and crossover independently from either the amp or head unit, just make sure either your head unit or your amp has the flexibility with crossovers.

I would also suggest a single subwoofer assuming you have the space and mounting depth for one more robust sub. Generally speaking less is more especially when going for simplicity and good sound. Fewer higher quality drivers typically beat trying to stuff 10 pounds of shit into a 5 pound bag.

Does your local shop sell anything besides Memphis? I'm personally a big fan of JBL/Infinity lineup (again, just stay above entry level lines) and Alpine has some nice small footprint amps in their PDX series and Type R components and subwoofers are tried and true performers for their price point. The difference between Alpine Type S and Type R is dramatic. Again, stay out of the entry level stuff and you should get products that perform as advertised and will have a good life expectancy.

Again let me say that across the board of respectable mainstream brands (JBL/Infinity, Kenwood, Alpine, Kicker, Pioneer, Sundown, Rockford, etc. etc.) you always want to avoid the entry level lines and across the board their offerings are going to be more or less comparable quality and performance in each particular price tier.

You're an adult, buy yourself good quality toys and you won't have to worry about poor performance, premature failure, and shitty customer service if anything does go wrong.
 
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GBloes

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 23, 2021
29
6
Hamilton
If I were you,... depending upon budget: get AudioControls 4 channel 50w amp [(~320) it’s sound quality will be better than most at that price] and the best speakers you can afford, definitely run them passive unless you can swing for a decent DSP/DSP amp. After which get the best sub with whatever’s left of your budget.

Personally I think there’s no point in spending much on a sub if it’s at the expense of everything else. At the level you’re talking about an extra $200 spent on everything else will make vastly more difference than getting a $400 sub over one for $200. Bottom line, unless you’re spending over $1,000 on everything else it’s pointless to get anything other than a cheap sub. Can always upgrade that later. But, again, spending $500 on a sub and $500 on everything else won’t sound anywhere near as good as $200 on a sub and $800 on everything else. Unless you want to wake babies when you drive by and/or are spending thousands. That’s my personal opinion but if you’re on a budget and rattling windows isn’t an objective, skimp on the sub.
 

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