home insulation in doors?

[beginner]

Do any of you guys have any experience with wall insulation in ur doors for sound damping? Iv heard if you seal it correctly no water will get in.

Anybody try this?

Click to read more...

 

[phemps 10+ year member]

@keep_hope_alive used fiberglass batting in his doors in his build. He sealed it in plastic to keep moisture out.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long-6.html

page 6

 

[phemps 10+ year member]

Do any of you guys have any experience with wall insulation in ur doors for sound damping? Iv heard if you seal it correctly no water will get in.
Anybody try this?

Its not to dampen noise though he used them for sound absorption in the door so im not sure this helped

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Speakers in a door enclosure have sound waves comming out from the front of the cone and also the back of the cone, known as rear waves. The back wave will jump around in the door and will either come back out through the cone or open gaps in the doors and cause cancellation with the front waves reducing a lot of midrange and midbass performance. The insulation is to absorb that pesky backwave and the result is a much more detailed midrange and more midbass thump.

 

[beginner]

So its not something proven to work? What do you guys use to fill the doors in?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So its not something proven to work? What do you guys use to fill the doors in?

Its proven to make your doorspeakers sound a lot better.

http://www.513electronics.com/easy-way-electronics-blog/make-your-speakers-sound-better-with-insulation-sound-damping-part-9/

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Note that this would be in ADDITION to damping the doors with CLD tiles, not INSTEAD of. Fiberglass batting doesn't deaden the panel vibrations. That is always the first thing to do.

 

[beginner]

Note that this would be in ADDITION to damping the doors with CLD tiles, not INSTEAD of. Fiberglass batting doesn't deaden the panel vibrations. That is always the first thing to do.

Do you mean in addition to something like roadkill on the outside of the door"the side the speaker and door panel get mounted" or is that entirely something else?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

It works great. I did my new cars factory doors just behind the speaker with a 12x12 square and added roadkill to the inner liner. And with factory speakers it sounds much much better.

I didnt reseal my doors yet since I want to add more insulation down the road so I did lose a little low ended but that will come back when I seal the door.

 

[fulmetal7777]

imo, if you want to do it right, i would suggest using cld tiles, rammat, dynamat, or second skin damplifier. I researched all this for a few hours one day, and after researching every popular product (the b-quiet, home depot/lowes stuff, fatmat) i found that there were major issue with them that would have to be dealt with down the road. One major issue was that the a lot of the cheaper alternatives were asphalt based, which would probably make your car smell in hot weather, or would slow slide down your doors or on any surface mounted vertically. Also, the 4 i listed at the beginning are purely engineered for this purpose with high quality materials. spend the extra $$ and do it right, even if it may cost nearly 5 or 10 times as much as the cheaper products (which arent really designed to work with cars).

Edit: just realized this may not apply to you because you said insulation, but i figure its a good bit of knowledge for you anyways //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[beginner]

Well im gonna use roadkill and I agree. But I meant for inside the doors. Ive been looking at a member on here...keep hope alive , and he shows awesome detail in what he does. As far as what ive learned. .the insulation inside the doors will improve sound quality if wrapped in plastic and sealed.

The one question no one seems to answer on here is about going active. Good site but I don't know about how many members have the technical experience. Everyone knows about deadening and good product but as far as active ,no answers

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Well im gonna use roadkill and I agree. But I meant for inside the doors. Ive been looking at a member on here...keep hope alive , and he shows awesome detail in what he does. As far as what ive learned. .the insulation inside the doors will improve sound quality if wrapped in plastic and sealed.
The one question no one seems to answer on here is about going active. Good site but I don't know about how many members have the technical experience. Everyone knows about deadening and good product but as far as active ,no answers

We have a forum dedicated to "Advanced SQ" questions, and people ask about going active almost every day. Not every thread gets the same detailed attention, but the knowledge is present, depending on who sees which threads.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Well im gonna use roadkill and I agree. But I meant for inside the doors. Ive been looking at a member on here...keep hope alive , and he shows awesome detail in what he does. As far as what ive learned. .the insulation inside the doors will improve sound quality if wrapped in plastic and sealed.
The one question no one seems to answer on here is about going active. Good site but I don't know about how many members have the technical experience. Everyone knows about deadening and good product but as far as active ,no answers

Going active is really not difficult at all once you have everything you need to do so. The hardest part is simply determining the crossover points to use, and that's usually not hard at all. I set up time alignment by ear.

 

[butterMilk 10+ year member]

Would any of the back waves bounce off the 1 mil plastic that you use to wrap the fibreglass, or do the waves penetrate right through the plastic and get trapped in the fibreglass?

What if the plastic was a little bit thicker than the 1 mil?

 

[boxpunch]

Home insulation is going to mold. It's impossible to seal the door. The rubber trim that is on the door edge is designed to let water roll down the window and into the door. That's why there are drainage holes at the bottom of every door. Also why there is a moisture barrier (plastic held with butyl rubber adhesive) on the inner door skin.