Hi Everybody! I'm new, check out my build

The 3Sixty would work as well. I've worked with the bit one though, and it's far superior. And I too prefer the 135 to the 335 even though similarly optioned, they aren't separated much in price...

Dude I think you'd be so happy if you just went with what I suggested. I work part time at a high end shop and we do a lot of BMW installs. Same principles, just smaller scale. You should pull the door panel off and see how much room to work with. You should be able to get a 6.5 in there.

 
35mph + curb = THAT?? If you are true about the speed, although they look :boobies: , I would never buy one.
Dang, and you had the car for less than 2 months!
I'd say... under 45 mph or the intertia switch would have tripped. And it wasn't a curb, it was a tree. Fiberglass is easy to destroy, the aluminum tub chassis is very safe, but it's designed to crumple like crazy in a crash. Yep... other people ****.

Anyway, my current goal is to get a signal to feed amplifiers. Thanks for the RF Tech number. I need to figure out how to keep the factory head unit and get a preamp RCA signal, I think. Are there inexpensive solutions?

I'm not really sure where the 3Sixty.2 fits into the picture.

Can we start with my headunit output? I can take some pictures of the OEM amp if it helps. The car is a 2009 135i with Hifi, but not premium Hifi. It doesn't have the optical output from the headunit or DSP. I'm pretty lost right now. Let's forget about speakers atm.

 
Check out the link I provided regarding the 3Sixty.2...

There are 2 versions the 3Sixty.1 allows you to integrate amps /subs/speakers but keep your factory head unit (and get awesome sound out of it)

Or the 3Sixty.2 allows you do the same thing number 1 gives you but enables a BUNCH of tuning options...

Anyway feel free to browse the site! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
i'd use an Audiocontrol LC7 or LC8 if you are gonna keep the factory head unit than add an EQS. I do like the 3Sixty.1 and 3Sixty.2 but I rather the Audiocontrol setup, it's just my comfort level with it. also on thing that the Audiocontrol can do that the RF can't do is sum channels that don't have a full range output.

 
Ok, so I poked around and figured out that I have 4 hi inputs from the headunit into a 6 channel amp. I don't think I want to bridge tap into them and wire them to RCA connectors, but my RD 3250.1 (hasn't arrived yet) seems to only have an RCA input.

I dug up a Fultron Crossfire (don't ask me where it came from) crossover box I had in my garage, and it looks like it should do the trick. I can run 2 of my low Z amplified outputs (midbass left and right) into the unit and apply a low pass filter if my stock midbass speakers are fed too high of a frequency from the OEM amp.

What's been screwing with me is that I thought I wouldn't have a way to combine right and left channels into a mono. I don't think I'd just wanna use a Y RCA connector with hot to hot. The Fultron Crossfire mystery box has a stereo and mono switch, so I hope that solves my problem in a non-horrible way.

I don't want to deal with the interior speakers until my sub is set up. I think that when I do, I'm going to go with a 6 channel amp (JL makes one) and feed 75 W + RMS (@ 2 ohms and 12 V) to a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1. Then I can control the volume and delay through the upgraded interior speakers. I'll figure out my interior speaker budget at a later time. I'm wondering if it would make sense to get a 3 piece component set (midbass, woof, and tweet) and a 2 piece component set (woof and tweet) so that I can replace all 10 speakers.

Does this plan sound more coherent?

Now I just need to worry about getting a block on this stupid boat battery in my car. It's huge and it has a glowing thing on it... and a giant red block bridging a bunch of hot leads. Do I cut the blue wire?

 
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