Help with building boxes please

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rdlyn13000
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Whats up guys, so I ran into a deal I couldnt pass up on some car audio. I havent had any car ausio since I was in high school and even then it was just buying subs/amps/boxes and throwing them in what ever. Well now that im getting back into it I would like to do it right. Here's what im working with. I have a bone stock 1999 Saturn SC-1, yeah I know nothing cool at all but it runs great and gets great mpg. Anyways I just picked up a 10" JL Audio W7 in a sealed box with a JL Audio 500/1 amp, all the wires I need to hook it up 4 gauge, and a decent pioneer head unit. Get this I got it all for $250!! So what I want to do now is build a nice ported box for it and have no idea where to start? I usually listen to rock music but with a system you almost have to listen to rap and I always have liked the low bass! So I would like to tune for that. What do you all recommend I build for a box? I also found these ported boxes on ebay for pretty cheap and was wondering if they would be ok to use?

EDIT: They wont let me post the links to the ebay boxes because im to new here...

Me and a buddy are also building a decent system in his caddy that I may just start a whole new thread on...

Anyways any help is very much appreciated! Thanks

 
hello! So, are you planning to purchase a box or build one yourself? Either way, I can help you with a design for a cost, if you are willing to have it done. If not, maybe we can still help you out with some general information as well, just let us know exactly what you want to know if you are either planning to purchase one, or DIY. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
I would like to keep it cheap is my main thing. I found one on eBay for $39.95 shipped brand new and was hopinh I could show you guys and see what you think about it but the site won't allow me to post links which is understandable. I want a slot port box and JL Audio calls for a 1.5 cubic foot ported box for my sub. If you look on JL's site it shows the inside of the box and the port travels down the side then turns and travels most of the way down the back. The boxes on eBay look to be almost the same exact box except the port wall only travels down the side of the box then stops- if that makes any sence to you? I'm wondering if that matters at all for both sound and is it ok for the speaker? It's seams like a great price for a box plus its 1 inch board!

 
lol, nice. Thanks Ranger //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif. Youre alright too mane //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 
I would like to keep it cheap is my main thing. I found one on eBay for $39.95 shipped brand new and was hopinh I could show you guys and see what you think about it but the site won't allow me to post links which is understandable. I want a slot port box and JL Audio calls for a 1.5 cubic foot ported box for my sub. If you look on JL's site it shows the inside of the box and the port travels down the side then turns and travels most of the way down the back. The boxes on eBay look to be almost the same exact box except the port wall only travels down the side of the box then stops- if that makes any sence to you? I'm wondering if that matters at all for both sound and is it ok for the speaker? It's seams like a great price for a box plus its 1 inch board!

Well, manufacturer specs can be very limited, or improved greatly with the right type of work, BUT if you are looking just to add something that will do the job, and keep it simple, you can find a great deal of boxes on the net that will do the work for the budget, such as the two options you have noted. The thing is, you normally get what you pay for and the same applies to a trustworthy company that will sell you a design. If the one of interest is only 40 bucks, it will likely perform like a 40 dollar design. As a person who creates these for a living, I see the differences on a daily basis and you can get lucky with the right cheap box. So, if that is what you would like to do, then by all means don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

My personal and professional opinion will always be on the side of efficiency in all aspects of a setup, including the cost. as far as that particular design, it is an industry standard in all aspects and will be outperformed easily by something created more for the specific driver in use.

 
Can anyone tell me the difference between the 2 boxes I posted? I noticed the one box it says make you r 10 sound like a 12, well my W7 already sounds like a 12 Lol. But obviously I want more out of it! And I believe there is a lot more this sub can do in the right box.

I see you say that a 40 dollar box will perform like a 40 dollar box and you get what you pay for etc. which 9 times out 10 that is true, but this is a 1" thick mdf built box which seems to be a pretty well built box. I know its probably not built to the spec that I want, so what should I do here? I can run to home depot and grab a sheet of mdf and build something my self but im not sure where to start on my own? I did read the stickys here but they didnt help me to much.

If anybody has any insight that would be great thanks

 
I don't know much about hz, what do I want? Like I said I like low bass, I know I only have a 10 but it actually produces pretty low sound if you ask me and that's in a sealed box. It also seems at times that the sub is almost being choked out of what it can actually do. What's the difference between 40 and 30?

 
10 INCH VENTED SUB BOX PORTED SUBWOOFER 44" PORT LOUD! | eBay 

---------- Post added at 04:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:29 PM ----------

 

Those are the two boxes I am looking at
This one would probably be decent for a cheap pre-fab. If you're not trying to break SPL records or score a perfect 100 on an RTA I suspect it would be adequate.

I don't know much about hz, what do I want? Like I said I like low bass, I know I only have a 10 but it actually produces pretty low sound if you ask me and that's in a sealed box. It also seems at times that the sub is almost being choked out of what it can actually do. What's the difference between 40 and 30?
Big difference between tuning @ 40 and @ 30hz

JL reccomends 1.5 cube for that woofer. I'd try that tuned in the low to mid 30hz range

 
Well, first of all, the questions are not dumb at all. You're doing good for asking first before purchasing anything you may not keep for more than a week. So, we appreciate that. Keep em coming!

Secondly, as far as tuning, there is a reason why people are so concerned with that rather than the entire response curve. The reason is for boxes like what has been shown. With those designs, that are already too small for any real performance, they do some interesting things to the output.

1. They are so small that they can contribute the curve to that of a sealed phase response, which is great for sound quality, but does lack output. And if you are looking for a balance, these types of designs, shown above in the links, have about a 70% quality, 30% output authority to them. The problem then is number 2...

2. With the tuning, most tune low because these design have given the audio community a reason to tune low. And no one realizes otherwise that this is only a "fix" for other issues in the design. So, a design that has a higher tuning is not mainstream mainly because there is a loss of output quickly below tuning. SO, tuning is a concentration for most who do not know about the other contributing factors of the response. These concerns are mainly for conventional designs where there is a lack of control compared to other styles with more control. So, tuning has became an important concept in keeping the output authority higher in the low frequency range rather than controlling the response effectively, it only hides the inaccuracies by changing the tuning. It is tough to get a conventional idea to not have these issues, but not impossible. Which is why tlines and horns of the like have became popular (once again).

So, with a proper sized design, and proper control, you can get any driver to perform very well and the way you want, instead of limiting yourself on these boxes that not only are smaller, but also have the higher tuning so it will drop fast in the lower range, because without the size factor being more usable, the response will suffer, and tuning then becomes the only factor that can make the difference.

I would not rely on tuning in any design to do the job for the sub. The subwoofer can perform at any frequency you throw at it, depending on the power applied. So, i tis then up to the box to reproduce these frequencies so they have enough authority to sound good. And this is reliant on size, and control rather than how thick the wood is (though it does help), and what its tuned to. When people ask me how many cubes or what the tuning is of any of my designs, I try to let them know that they were not designed around those factors mainly, but they were considered in the design as having an importance.

This was kind of a rant, but I just wanted to point out that tuning and manufacturer volumes recommendations are crap when the other factors do not work. Then again, tuning is the only thing you have control over at that point. I dont want to have control over only one factor, I want to control them all, and these boxes you have linked to do not do that at all.

 
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rdlyn13000

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