Help with boomy bass.

codyc03

CarAudio.com Recruit
28
0
Utah
I finished my first sub setup a couple months ago, and have mainly been happy with it. I currently have the stock head unit, leading back to a LC2i with a skar rp1200 amp and 12” skar svr in a diy 2 foot cubic inch ported box tuned to 32hz wired at 1 ohm. The sub is facing up and port back in a ford focus hatchback up against the back seat. I have mainly been happy with this setup, but at times the bass sounds really boomy and empty. I tried turning the box on it’s face so that the port was facing down and the sub was facing back, somewhat mimicking a sealed box. It sounded less boomy and more punchy, but was noticeably quieter which seems fairly consistent with what i’ve heard about ported vs sealed boxes. The thing that gives me hope in my ported box however is my friend has a kicker comp r 12 in the kicker prefab box, which i believe is ported, and had it professionally installed. His setup sounds a lot more punchy and accurate. Any ideas on how I could fix this?
 
Your sub probably needs a larger box if it is "ringing". Those kicker comps are good sounding subs and the prefab sub+box kits are pretty impressive for big-box-store tier sub system.

Skar as a bit of a reputation, mostly earned. You're not exactly comparing apples to apples and you'll probably need to do some experimenting with different box volumes and tunings to get that to do whatever it is you're after.
 
I currently have the stock head unit, leading back to a LC2i with a skar rp1200 amp and 12” skar svr in a diy 2 foot cubic inch ported box tuned to 32hz wired at 1 ohm. At times the bass sounds really boomy and empty.
The thing that gives me hope in my ported box however is my friend has a kicker comp r 12 in the kicker prefab box, which i believe is ported, and had it professionally installed. His setup sounds a lot more punchy and accurate. Any ideas on how I could fix this?

A guy in your similar situation contacted me awhile ago describing basically what sounds like the same issue to me. Its sounds like you're after punchier, accurate bass with some good lows. A nice musical all-arounder.

I felt a 4th was the way to go so I drew one up and he's very happy with the result. Punchier with good lows and without using a TON of space.

Personally I'd lean towards something like this...

M58WGn.jpg
 
If you want accurate bass, do a sealed box to the exact size that the T/S parameters call for. Your 2sq ft box is too big. Ported boxes are not as accurate as sealed.
Build it like a bomb shelter.
Set your head unit tone controls to neutral, possibly even dialing the bass back a hair. . Set your amp crossover at 80Hz and dial it back until you get a seamless blend with your mains.
And +1 on the apples/oranges analogy.
 
I love good advice... Small sealed?
Eq it to death is a diyma solution. Then once it lacks upgrade then start over.
Maybe someone should stick to the thunderbowl and troll threads.
Just sayin'
 
If you want accurate bass, do a sealed box to the exact size that the T/S parameters call for. Your 2sq ft box is too big. Ported boxes are not as accurate as sealed.
Build it like a bomb shelter.
Set your head unit tone controls to neutral, possibly even dialing the bass back a hair. . Set your amp crossover at 80Hz and dial it back until you get a seamless blend with your mains.
And +1 on the apples/oranges analogy.

If the T/S parameters provided are correct.. We're talking Skar here after all.
 
Tl/dr.

Which point is wrong? A sealed box is the most accurate, or you should use a box that is properly suited to the T/S parameters of the woofer?

Speaker companies like MTX, Eminence, SVS, Kicker, Fluance, JL Audio, Wilson, Canton, and on and on, say that sealed is more accurate that ported.
The T/S parameters are specifically used in order to build the correct-sized box for a driver.

Was it my "+1" on the apples-to-oranges statement that is bothering you?
 
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I finished my first sub setup a couple months ago, and have mainly been happy with it. I currently have the stock head unit, leading back to a LC2i with a skar rp1200 amp and 12” skar svr in a diy 2 foot cubic inch ported box tuned to 32hz wired at 1 ohm. The sub is facing up and port back in a ford focus hatchback up against the back seat. I have mainly been happy with this setup, but at times the bass sounds really boomy and empty. I tried turning the box on it’s face so that the port was facing down and the sub was facing back, somewhat mimicking a sealed box. It sounded less boomy and more punchy, but was noticeably quieter which seems fairly consistent with what i’ve heard about ported vs sealed boxes. The thing that gives me hope in my ported box however is my friend has a kicker comp r 12 in the kicker prefab box, which i believe is ported, and had it professionally installed. His setup sounds a lot more punchy and accurate. Any ideas on how I could fix this?
2 cubes at 32 hz should be fine for this subwoofer, unless you have flaws in the design or build. Are you sure you’re not actually lacking midbass? A 600 watts 12 paired with 15 watt 5.25 inch coaxials up front will likely sound boomy no matter what box your sub is in. Bass boosts an bad EQing can make it even worse. Unless your box is totally flawed in design or build, i would suspect you just don’t have a good enough front stage.
 
I love good advice... Small sealed?
Eq it to death is a diyma solution. Then once it lacks upgrade then start over.
Maybe someone should stick to the thunderbowl and troll threads.
Just sayin'
APPROPRIATELY SIZED and sealed. If he seals up his 2 Cu. ft box, it will be too big. A properly sized sealed box will help tell him if the woofer is the problem. Of course, the amp comes into play too, but the proper way to troubleshoot is to remove the unknowns. His box and his porting work are the unknowns, especially if the Skar brand is sloppy with the data they provide on their inexpensive woofers.
 
Agree 100% LOL....Rob Psaki's audio advice is at an elementary level, fuckin retard trying to make friends but nobody likes him
Please explain where I am incorrect with my”elementary level” advice for a guy who is running a low-budget sub, in an unknown DIY ported box, fed by a stock system.

And give us your expert recommendations that would help him.
 
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Please explain where I am incorrect with my”elementary level” advice for a guy who is running a low-budget sub, in an unknown DIY ported box, fed by a stock system.

And give us your expert recommendations that would help him.
I reiterate my recommendations. That Skar "low budget" sub will peak low, be boomy and have tons of delay low tuned in the 30's especially in 2ft3 net. I modeled it up in several enclosures as I have exp with this exact sub and a little exp to draw on.
I advised a box that will not lose overall output, be punchy and peak where he probably wants it vs a sealed disaster that affects power handling and has a HUGE peak coinciding with cabin acoustics leaving him in cheap azz sub/poor enclosure limbo like seems to be the norm anymore. Hey... Lets recommend an upgrade or just flame the manufacturer once again instead of trying to work with his equipment. Could be Skar, signal... frontstage... jeez... ok. Read into the T/S parameters maybe model it and see for yourself. A 4th would be my choice. Low delay, peaking in the mid 40's, a sealed rolloff with a ratio chosen to blend and have musical lows.
I do sub enclosure designs, not chime in just to type.
He mentioned a Kicker prefab as a good target, I took that as no extreme lows, low delay and punchiness to be the target... a musical enclosure.
This forum has changed at times for the worse imo. The Thunderbowl has drawn new users and trolls with little direct exp in audio.
You seem to always seek drama and feel your on the high ground in any discussion, ok... throw out a sealed recommendation for that particular sub and own it.

Entering the debate while belittling the equipment as a way out is a troll post bud. Do you design?

Skar has a rep and history sure but a good designer can take some info (even inaccurate), fix it and completely turn it around. Exp counts bud.

Could be this or that... or something or not...

I gave solid info.

And a properly designed ported enclosure is more accurate and has an output benefit out the gate, in this case a higher order enclosure is in order.

I love giving advice.
 
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codyc03

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