HELP me wire my new system

jarvy
10+ year member

Junior Member
hey guys i just got a kicker cvr12 4 ohm and an apline mpr450 class d amp.

the sub is in a sealed 1.0 cu/ft box. im havin trouble makin it sound good, its in a ranger single cab in a wedge shaped 1.0 cu ft box. HU is alpine cda8994

AMP SPECS:

MRP-M450 Class D

-RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-20kHz)

-Per channel into 4 ohms: 220W x 1 (1% THD)

-Per channel into 2 ohms: 400W x 1

-Brigded 4 ohms: 600W x 1

- its got 3 dials.. lpf, bass eq, gain

SUB SPECS:

KICKER CVR12 dvc 4 OHM

-Frequency response: 25-500 Hz

-Power handling: 50-400 watts RMS

-Peak power: 800 watts

-12" sub with dual 4-ohm voice coils

i have it wired at 2 ohm right now and i have the lpf at 90 hz and the gain cranked same with the bass eq. it sounds like *** when i dont have the gain and bass eq cranked.... can u help me out maybe i wired the sub wrong

heres how i have it

1_4ohm_dvc_2ohm.gif


 
i have 2 of these subs they are great for the money. for wiring the sub put your + and - speaker wire from the amp in the the black and red with dots then take another little piece of wire and put it in the same holes and run the other end to the solid black and red it is parrel wiring for the kickers.

 
hey guys i just got a kicker cvr12 4 ohm and an apline mpr450 class d amp.the sub is in a sealed 1.0 cu/ft box. im havin trouble makin it sound good, its in a ranger single cab in a wedge shaped 1.0 cu ft box. HU is alpine cda8994

AMP SPECS:

MRP-M450 Class D

-RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-20kHz)

-Per channel into 4 ohms: 220W x 1 (1% THD)

-Per channel into 2 ohms: 400W x 1

-Brigded 4 ohms: 600W x 1

- its got 3 dials.. lpf, bass eq, gain

SUB SPECS:

KICKER CVR12 dvc 4 OHM

-Frequency response: 25-500 Hz

-Power handling: 50-400 watts RMS

-Peak power: 800 watts

-12" sub with dual 4-ohm voice coils

i have it wired at 2 ohm right now and i have the lpf at 90 hz and the gain cranked same with the bass eq. it sounds like *** when i dont have the gain and bass eq cranked.... can u help me out maybe i wired the sub wrong

heres how i have it

1_4ohm_dvc_2ohm.gif
The diagram you showed is wired correctly. However, your specs mention the posibility of Bridged 4 ohm 600 x 1? This amp only has one set of outputs. How do you bridge a mono amp?

i have 2 of these subs they are great for the money. for wiring the sub put your + and - speaker wire from the amp in the the black and red with dots then take another little piece of wire and put it in the same holes and run the other end to the solid black and red it is parrel wiring for the kickers.
That is exactly what his diagram showed.

 
i have 2 of these subs they are great for the money. for wiring the sub put your + and - speaker wire from the amp in the the black and red with dots then take another little piece of wire and put it in the same holes and run the other end to the solid black and red it is parrel wiring for the kickers.
^WTF ..........Make sure you really do have the sub wired as that picture shows.. Are you sure your amp can handle a 2 ohm load? Also make sure you have the correct adjustments on your HU if there are any.

 
1) You cant bridge that amp.

2) I wouldnt expect much from a 12" CVR in a sealed 1 cu ft enclosure. Port it if you want loudness

3) set your gains right, turn the bass EQ down, unless you know what you're doing with it. That bass eq is definately not helping the sound quality situation.

 
^WTF ..........Make sure you really do have the sub wired as that picture shows.. Are you sure your amp can handle a 2 ohm load? Also make sure you have the correct adjustments on your HU if there are any.
Yes that amp can do:

220W x 1 @ 4 Ohm

400W x 1 @ 2 Ohm

Here is the manual

 
Heres the correct info for that amp

Details:

  • mono subwoofer car amplifier
  • 220 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (400 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
  • variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
  • tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 50 Hz)
  • subsonic filter (15 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
  • MOSFET power supply
  • CEA-2006 compliant
  • STAR Topology (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference)
  • speaker- and preamp-level inputs
  • gold-plated screw terminals
  • fuse rating: 20A x 2
  • 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
  • 9-3/4"W x 2-7/16"H x 9-9/16

 
that website is wrong, but it doesnt make a difference. If you have it wired as in the diagram, the amp is seeing a 2 ohm load (rated RMS of 400, which is plenty)

Search on here and learn how to set your gains right, and turn the bass EQ all the way down, as I stated.

you may also want to look into building a ported box (there is a tutorial in the enclosure design section), which will increase that sub's output quite a bit, compared to that small sealed enclosure.

 
1) You cant bridge that amp.
2) I wouldnt expect much from a 12" CVR in a sealed 1 cu ft enclosure. Port it if you want loudness

3) set your gains right, turn the bass EQ down, unless you know what you're doing with it. That bass eq is definately not helping the sound quality situation.
i cant port cause i have limited space and wouldnt porting on a such smal box ruin sound quality horribly? i want nice crisp bass and i have like no room at all so i went with sealed. but if i ported it how much better could it get?

 
i cant port cause i have limited space and wouldnt porting on a such smal box ruin sound quality horribly? i want nice crisp bass and i have like no room at all so i went with sealed. but if i ported it how much better could it get?
How loud do you want the sub to be? If you are just trying to make the sub not sound like ***, you need to learn how to set gains properly, and you need to turn the bass eq off (it has its benefits, but not in this setup).

If you want the sub to be louder, port it. People often have the misconception that ported boxes lose sound quality. This is true for the most part, but if the box is well designed and well built, you wont lose much at all.

This is all assuming that you have the sub wired correctly as well.

 
well the box is built to the maximum i can have it right now, ill mess with the settings a bit more and see how it goes, thanks for the help, much appreciated.

 
OK, sounds like you are on the right path to decent sound quality from your subs, but just know that you are going to achieve sound quality at the expense of volume. If you want both sound quality AND volume, the equipment listed will not achieve that.

 
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jarvy

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