help me rebuild my front stage and integrate rear fill

Try some Diamond Hex 600s comps, tweets come down to 1800 hz. 150 RMS, very impressive midbass as well. You can have your tweeter placed a good distance from your midbass/midrange and still blend well because of the lower cutoff frequency for the tweeters. They do sound very well, but are a little pricey. I run some older Diamonds and love the tonality of them. Make sure they are the new models of the Hex's.
The aluminum tweeters are very harsh.

What HU are you using? Putting tweeters high up on the dash or pillars doesnt necessarily raise your stage. It can cause all kinds of reflection issues off of dash boards, windshields, etc. You need to implement it properly.

Look at the LPG 25NFA tweeters and a set of Aura NS6 4 ohm mids for an active front stage.

 
The aluminum tweeters are very harsh.
What HU are you using? Putting tweeters high up on the dash or pillars doesnt necessarily raise your stage. It can cause all kinds of reflection issues off of dash boards, windshields, etc. You need to implement it properly.

Look at the LPG 25NFA tweeters and a set of Aura NS6 4 ohm mids for an active front stage.
Pioneer Avh p4300dvd. Only processing I really have is sonic center control. Cant go active on it, or on my amp. Thats why I was looking to do something passive. Looks like I might be stuck with a regular passive 2 way again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Pioneer Avh p4300dvd. Only processing I really have is sonic center control. Cant go active on it, or on my amp. Thats why I was looking to do something passive. Looks like I might be stuck with a regular passive 2 way again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
What your trying to do is a waste of time. Id get a different headunit with active capabilities and time alignment. That would make raising your stage much easier. Then run an active 2 way front stage+sub. You will have much better results than trying to cobble together a 3 way passive setup with no time alignment.

 
What your trying to do is a waste of time. Id get a different headunit with active capabilities and time alignment. That would make raising your stage much easier. Then run an active 2 way front stage+sub. You will have much better results than trying to cobble together a 3 way passive setup with no time alignment.
the sonic center control is pretty much a time alignment between left and right. But you may be right, I may need to try active, doubt I'll go changing my HU but maybe an active xover or an active capable amp

 
the sonic center control is pretty much a time alignment between left and right. But you may be right, I may need to try active, doubt I'll go changing my HU but maybe an active xover or an active capable amp
An active HU is much easier to tune on the fly than a crossover or amp.

 
rs100-4_impedance_phase.gif


this the impedance/phase plot of the Dayton RS100-4, from what I can see, within the range I will be using it, it stays between 3 ohms and 5 ohms doesnt cross 5 ohm mark until 5khz which I plan to have it crossed by then anyway.....could this possibly work with one of the Dayton passives? since they like 8 or 4 ohm nominal mids.

anyone?

 
It doesn't matter so much what the impedance is, as long as you know so you can get the right value. I was just trying to show why a pe xo might not work as expected. Are you close to Michigan? I have a measuring system. I am going to try to do a passive system also. I'm not trying to tell you not to do this, it can work well I think. I just want you to know what you are getting into.

 
It doesn't matter so much what the impedance is, as long as you know so you can get the right value. I was just trying to show why a pe xo might not work as expected. Are you close to Michigan? I have a measuring system. I am going to try to do a passive system also. I'm not trying to tell you not to do this, it can work well I think. I just want you to know what you are getting into.
nope! nowhere near michigan! way down in GA. but yea, I'm up for the challenge and learning experience!(dont have access to a soldering iron or anything though) I'm thinking that the Dayton xo should work with that midrange I quoted up there.....or am I wrong? what am I missing? Its my understanding that doubling the impedance will change the xo freq by an octave but since the driver i listed above doesnt even reach 5ohms until 5khz, shouldnt that work?

 
I have a brand new set of kicker ssmb6s that I never got around to installing before so I'm gonna try them out for midbass they sound pretty good freeair in my room on about 50wrms ill be givin em 125+ in my car in vented kicks. As for tweeter I haven't decided yet. Ill have to do some more looking. May stick with all dayton or try an LPG or vifa....or maybe a ribbon tweet

 
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