Going active - which processor?

well memphis just gave me a call. and this is what they said:

i can use front or front&rear inputs, but if i use just front i need to use the parallel option to split the front input between the front and rear outputs so i can drive the tweets on the front and mids on the rear.

set gains on xover at about 75% and then set with the amp so as to keep the gains low on the amp giving me a cleaner signal.

the increments/ticks on each knob really have no purpose. except the top most tick mark is exactly half of the bandwidth. and according to my calculations if i wanted to cross the mid and tweet at 3200Hz, id need to have the knobs set to 3/4 (or rather halfway between the top tick and the last tick), which would give me 3125Hz...close enough.

does that sound good?

 
well memphis just gave me a call. and this is what they said:
i can use front or front&rear inputs, but if i use just front i need to use the parallel option to split the front input between the front and rear outputs so i can drive the tweets on the front and mids on the rear.

set gains on xover at about 75% and then set with the amp so as to keep the gains low on the amp giving me a cleaner signal.

the increments/ticks on each knob really have no purpose. except the top most tick mark is exactly half of the bandwidth. and according to my calculations if i wanted to cross the mid and tweet at 3200Hz, id need to have the knobs set to 3/4 (or rather halfway between the top tick and the last tick), which would give me 3125Hz...close enough.

does that sound good?
Sounds good to me...start the tweeter a tad higher just to be safe...

 
Clear enough. I was gonna say don't go by the hashes and such. Just by ear and test tones and lots of tuning. You will find yourself doing it again so mark your first settings with something. As the drivers break in you will be able to set gains higher etc....

Active is bliss....lol

Most tweeters average 4000hz on the low end. Its a little tougher finding tweets down to 2000hz that take it well.

 
THE TWEETERS DONT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

i cant even f*cking believe this im so f*cking pissed right now! i finally got everything hooked up and all that was playing was the mids. so i thought maybe it was the rca's, so i turn parallel off and plug in the rear rcas....nothing still! i hear a tiny bit of static coming from 1 of them when the mids are on too but thats it. no static when i unplug the mids...nothing. also, my DMM doesnt even read anything when i unplug the rca's for the mids too. wtf? i was setting the gains and the right channels were reading a couple volts lower than the left. i thought that was odd but figured thered still be output. wtf is going on!?!? i want to kill someone right now!!!!!!!!

 
THE TWEETERS DONT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif
i cant even f*cking believe this im so f*cking pissed right now! i finally got everything hooked up and all that was playing was the mids. so i thought maybe it was the rca's, so i turn parallel off and plug in the rear rcas....nothing still! i hear a tiny bit of static coming from 1 of them when the mids are on too but thats it. no static when i unplug the mids...nothing. also, my DMM doesnt even read anything when i unplug the rca's for the mids too. wtf? i was setting the gains and the right channels were reading a couple volts lower than the left. i thought that was odd but figured thered still be output. wtf is going on!?!? i want to kill someone right now!!!!!!!!
Take a chill pill...
No offense, but maybe this hobby is not for you...car audio takes a whole lot of patience and trouble shooting on your own...its probably something very simple...

There is only so much we can spoon feed you over the internet unfortunately...

Use your DMM to check the tweeter resistance and go from there. Troubleshoot one thing at a time, eliminating variables until you find your culprit...

 
Take a chill pill...
No offense, but maybe this hobby is not for you...car audio takes a whole lot of patience and trouble shooting on your own...its probably something very simple...

There is only so much we can spoon feed you over the internet unfortunately...

Use your DMM to check the tweeter resistance and go from there. Troubleshoot one thing at a time, eliminating variables until you find your culprit...
its not that, its frustration. youd be frustrated too in my situation.

anyways, i did realize that i had the front and rear rcas mixed up. but ubfortunatley i still have a problem. now my left mid and right tweet work while the left tweet and right mid dont... ugh! and im not even so sure the tweet that works sounds very good. ill have to listen again. btw, when i had the rcas mixed up, i just had them running like that for a few seconds, not even a full minute, so i highly doubt that it could have damaged anything.

 
its not that, its frustration. youd be frustrated too in my situation.
anyways, i did realize that i had the front and rear rcas mixed up. but ubfortunatley i still have a problem. now my left mid and right tweet work while the left tweet and right mid dont... ugh! and im not even so sure the tweet that works sounds very good. ill have to listen again. btw, when i had the rcas mixed up, i just had them running like that for a few seconds, not even a full minute, so i highly doubt that it could have damaged anything.
Thats your PROBLEM
When I first started, I used to get a little frustrated, but then I realized that it just caused me more of a headache/mistakes in the long run...

You just need to take a step back and check everything thoroughly and carefully...sometimes its best to even start over if you have to...

If only the left side works now, you had your RCAs mixed up, and the BOTH mids worked at one point leads me to believe that its not the crossover, therefore:

A. A pair of your RCAs are gone. Isolate them and check if they are crimped somewhere.

B. Your HU outputs are fried, which is doubtful because two of them still work

C. Two of your amp channels are fried.

 
Thats your PROBLEM
When I first started, I used to get a little frustrated, but then I realized that it just caused me more of a headache/mistakes in the long run...

You just need to take a step back and check everything thoroughly and carefully...sometimes its best to even start over if you have to...

If only the left side works now, you had your RCAs mixed up, and the BOTH mids worked at one point leads me to believe that its not the crossover, therefore:

A. A pair of your RCAs are gone. Isolate them and check if they are crimped somewhere.

B. Your HU outputs are fried, which is doubtful because two of them still work

C. Two of your amp channels are fried.
ive been in this shit for many years and ive done countless installs. i know it takes patience and time but when you drop $350 on a nice set of comps when your broke only to have them be nothing but a problem, you get a little ticked off.

A,B,C. i dont think it could be any of these b/c when i was setting the gains, i was getting voltages across all channels. granted the right channels were a couple volts lower, oddly, but nevertheless i had them up where they needed to be.

 
ive been in this shit for many years and ive done countless installs. i know it takes patience and time but when you drop $350 on a nice set of comps when your broke only to have them be nothing but a problem, you get a little ticked off.
A,B,C. i dont think it could be any of these b/c when i was setting the gains, i was getting voltages across all channels. granted the right channels were a couple volts lower, oddly, but nevertheless i had them up where they needed to be.
No need for a cocky attitude, you obviously have not learned much if you managed to mess something up twice, but thats another story...
Check your voltage again then...if they are fine then its your speakers...check your wiring to each speaker. Finally, check the resistance if your speakers...

 
No need for a cocky attitude, you obviously have not learned much if you managed to mess something up twice, but thats another story...
Check your voltage again then...if they are fine then its your speakers...check your wiring to each speaker. Finally, check the resistance if your speakers...
you were being a prick in your first post today, so thats where the attitude is coming from. that and the fact that this shit is pissing me off. i dont want to sit here and fight with you over the internet b/c of some ghey shit though.

i didnt "mess something up twice". the first time, yes, you could say it was my fault b/c i WAS overpowering them. but these comps have a reputation to take a lot of power...even more than what i fed them. ive done this with other comps and plenty of subs also without issue. perhaps my comps werent up to par with the other CMXs on the market, i dont know, but i didnt want to risk it again so i decided to run rated. and now, after dealing with rainbows BS for so **** long im having other issues. its only natural to be pissed off at the company. i was getting V across all channels so the literally elimanates 99% of the possible issues. also, when i installed the comps last week, i checked the wires for continuity, and all checked out. given that information, what would you suspect? the drivers themselves, right? i honestly cant think of 1 other thing it could be. and now im puzzled by that fact that the right mid WAS working, but now isnt...

 
Ok this is the last post that I am going to give you. You can then use your "years" of experience to figure it out for yourself, so pay attention:

A car audio system is nothing more than a circuit with light bulbs (the components of your sytem). If you break the circuit then things don't work.

Currently you have:

HU>>>Crossover>>>Amp>>>Speakers

Simple yeah? Check all your wiring with a DMM if need be. Then work your way through the "light bulbs" to see if anything needs to be replaced.

If everything checks out, and you are still getting voltage through your amplifier then your speakers are blown or speaker wire is snipped. Pure and simple...

Either that or you managed to defy the laws of physics. I'm done helping you. I love helping people out, but when I have to explain the basics it gets a little to overwhelming for me...

Once you get it figured out, go to BCAE1.com and start reading...

 
Yeah man do a double take. I have the same crossover and no issues whatsoever. I have tweets on the front. Midranges on the rear. Start there before the switcheroos and multiplier to make sure everything is in working order.

 
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