Going active - which processor?

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

Of course not, but when compared to the effect of level matching its fairly insignificant because the cabin is a relatively tiny space...
If you can get the SPL levels of the left and right midranges equal to your left and right years respectively, you will get fairly SOLID center imaging, so long as you take care of early reflections (I.E. Foam products)...

Thats the thing, you simply can't make assumptions about absolute phase until you have the speakers mounted in the position you want and you start testing...a full 180 degree phase shift may be too much, in which case T/A (a very LITTLE amount) can be used (usually passenger side works best)...

You CAN have a great sounding system without T/A though. Which is what I am getting at. Level matching with midranges is much more significant than applying T/A. In addition, playing with relative phase of the speakers is a rudimentary way of applying time alignment...

For now, just go active with a simple crossover, because once you get sucked in you will spend HOURS trying to get concrete imaging while maintaining tonality...not to mention it will dent your wallet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

lol, yeah. well part of the reason i never really got into fine tuning like this is because, like i said before, i have a hard time hearing those fine changes. i never got into it in the other thread but i have issues with my ear canals not being at the right angle. so i always have fluid in my ears and it really distorts my hearing, so fine tuning is kinda useless right now. im getting surgery probably this summer though to fix the problem.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

lol, yeah. well part of the reason i never really got into fine tuning like this is because, like i said before, i have a hard time hearing those fine changes. i never got into it in the other thread but i have issues with my ear canals not being at the right angle. so i always have fluid in my ears and it really distorts my hearing, so fine tuning is kinda useless right now. im getting surgery probably this summer though to fix the problem.

Ouch that really sucks...
To be honest, If given a choice I would go blind before I went deaf...

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

Ouch that really sucks...
To be honest, If given a choice I would go blind before I went deaf...

lol no way! then you wouldnt even know what boobies look like //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

lol no way! then you wouldnt even know what boobies look like //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

But I could still touch them //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

But I could still touch them //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

yeah but if your blind youll probably end up fvcking big foot's sister lol

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

ok, i went and bought that memphis processor from ebay. i also picked up 2 pairs of 1/2meter karma rca cables from knu konceptz //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[redcalimp5 10+ year member]

Ryan, I had my CMX Kicks running active from my HU which is active capable. The settings that I personally liked for the mids and tweets were:

Tweets: 4kHz, 12db/oct

Mid-Hi: 3.2kHz, 12db/oct

Mid-Lo: 80Hz, 12db/oct

I had the tweet gain set to give the tweets about 50w rms a tweet, and each mid was getting about 110w rms, and it sounded awesome.

Hope this helps once you get your crossover.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Ryan, I had my CMX Kicks running active from my HU which is active capable. The settings that I personally liked for the mids and tweets were:
Tweets: 4kHz, 12db/oct

Mid-Hi: 3.2kHz, 12db/oct

Mid-Lo: 80Hz, 12db/oct

I had the tweet gain set to give the tweets about 50w rms a tweet, and each mid was getting about 110w rms, and it sounded awesome.

Hope this helps once you get your crossover.

There you go man, give that a shot //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

Ryan, I had my CMX Kicks running active from my HU which is active capable. The settings that I personally liked for the mids and tweets were:
Tweets: 4kHz, 12db/oct

Mid-Hi: 3.2kHz, 12db/oct

Mid-Lo: 80Hz, 12db/oct

I had the tweet gain set to give the tweets about 50w rms a tweet, and each mid was getting about 110w rms, and it sounded awesome.

Hope this helps once you get your crossover.

great thanx alot man. unfortunatley this memphis can only do 18dB/oct so i guess ill have to close that gap a little. what kinda car do you have and where were the mids and tweets located?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Of course not, but when compared to the effect of level matching its fairly insignificant because the cabin is a relatively tiny space...
If you can get the SPL levels of the left and right midranges equal to your left and right years respectively, you will get fairly SOLID center imaging, so long as you take care of early reflections (I.E. Foam products)...

Interesting info, thanks. Im gonna have to play with that when I get my system running again.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Interesting info, thanks. Im gonna have to play with that when I get my system running again.

Experimenting is Key...driver positioning is the single most overlooked (and arguably most important) aspect of the front stage...most just assume T/A will fix all their issues...
Much easier to tune when you have a solid foundation //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Oh I know all about and agree with speaker positioning being key. Im just curious to hear the differences in importance of T/A considering freq.

And yes T/A is a bandaide. But in car, its usually a necessary one.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Oh I know all about and agree with speaker positioning being key. Im just curious to hear the differences in importance of T/A considering freq.
And yes T/A is a bandaide. But in car, its usually a necessary one.

I won't have T/A for a while...
Selling everything then coming back into the hobby SUCKS. I had to re-buy every little thing missing...I STILL don't have a deck and I have already racked up 350...

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

got the memphis xover in today and i got a couple question (it didnt come with a manual).

for the input, am i just using the front input from my deck, or do i use front for tweets and rear for mids (not an active deck)?

what are the "high level/mid level/sub level" knobs? are they gain knobs? if so how do i set the gains when i have 2 gain knobs in the setup? do i max one and set the other accordingly (i.e. max the memphis gain and set the amp gain)?

i see all the high/low pass filters, but theres only 1 of each. does this mean that if i set them it applys to both the front and the rear channels?

i use the frequency multiplier (1x/10x) for the highpass on the tweets, and the "band-pass" option for the mid?

i think thats all //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Not sure the exact lay out of that crossover, so I would need to see a picture or manual to give you a concrete answer...

I would use both outputs (front/rear) because I believe your deck does have T/A that you can play with at the very least...

For the crossovers, use the x10 switch for your tweeter high pass and woofer lowpass...I could have sworn it had individual crossovers for the woofer lowpass and tweeter high pass but I guess not....just set it to around 3500hz....

Try the gains at around half way then set your amp gains with a DMM to be safe...