Going Active, replacing mids......suggestions?

Anyways, the whole point of this thread was me getting recommendations on replacement mids that are superior to the Evil's. They just aren't up to the SSA standards and it seems like SSA is selling out a little bit which is unfortunate.

 
The CDT's recommended were 2ohm....that wouldn't present a problem running 2 channels @ 2ohm for the mids and 2 channels @ 4ohm for the tweeters off of that zapco would it?

 
Hey guys, am I missing something, here? The CL-6MSUB - CDT Audio 6.5" Extended Bass Sub Drivers frequency response is 40hz - 1000hz. The Morel tweeters can only go down to 1800hz. There's a gap there, is there not? Unless the OP is running 3-way (and there's a midrange driver in the mix)and not 2-way, isn't he asking for some issues, here?

 
Good catch, I assume the tempo and tempo ultra tweets are the same? I just found the specs on their page. Makes me wonder what the evils I have now play up to

 
Just looked and they play up to 4500. No problem there. I might just start by trying those fast rings with my current mids and going to an active 2 way and then go from there.

 
I'm always tinkering with settings, but I think right now I have the fronts high passed at 63hz and the sub at 80hz. 6db/octave slope for both.
The 6 dB slope at 63 Hz explains the midbass crackling. That's passing a lot of power down low which is putting a ton of stress on the suspension as the volume is turned up higher. Does that make sense?

 
I'm always tinkering with settings, but I think right now I have the fronts high passed at 63hz and the sub at 80hz. 6db/octave slope for both.
Ditto with trumpet.

yeah you want to learn how to really install and use your current gear right before you start swapping things out. Its not the speaker thats the issue, this is pure poor install and tune. Trumpet's right lol. Go active with the evils, really do a proper door treatments and put the evils on its own amp, none of this shared crossover franken component set bullsh*t. Along with using proper slopes.

Like i said to many others before, you need gobs of power for the evils to come alive like literally 200-300 watts or higher per evil and they need proper crossover points. You cant hope to make things work by shoving it in a passive crossover thats never designed to work around the evils.

Your main goal is to get another big 2 channel or a 4 channel to bridge and get more power to the evils and use the JL for the tweeters and run active along with door treatments.

OR you can do the complete and utter noob thing and swap equipment like underwear praying something works and overcomes bad tuning and acoustics.

Only after you do a good install and tune is when would you even think about swapping equipment.

 
You live and you learn. Well, looks like it's time to buy that Zapco and do some more door treatments. I'll probably just go with a more effecient mid if that's the case.

 
You live and you learn. Well, looks like it's time to buy that Zapco and do some more door treatments. I'll probably just go with a more effecient mid if that's the case.
I can email you about the amp and Fast Ring 6.5 today to get this done. I will need your email sent by private message.

 
What do you guys think about actively running Dayton RS180's with Seas Neo Aluminums (H1397-04)?

Been searching all night, I can't make a decision to save my life

 
For a great set of mids I recommend Stereo Integrity TM MKII 6.5s. They are $300 a pair but will play lower frequency bass better than mids double their price range. Do a internet search and you won't find a single person who doesn't have amazing things to say about them. They also are one of few 6.5s that can truly perform well in a 2 way or 3 way setup. They work well.

On more of a budget at $60 a piece I recommend SB Acoustics SB17 6.5s

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers-sb-acoustics/sb-acoustics-sb17mfc35-4-6-poly-cone-woofer/

If my memory serves me correctly NVX uses there speakers in one their component sets.

When people are lacking in midbass, install is usually the issue. Are the doors sealed of all holes and dampened well. Sealing off the front wave from the back wave along with mounting the mid as close to the door cards as possible is how you get that midbass back. Some doors have big open holes for easy access, not sure on your current install. A proper sealed off door enclosure is a prerequisite to good midbass. Without that you will never have good mids. Use the fast rings mentioned above. They need to be sealed.

The Dayton you mentioned is a good budget starter driver to use. You got amazing tweets, time for an amazing mid.

 
I had a Stereo Integrity Magnum D2 back in the day, I loved that sub. I kinda forgot about SI. Looks like people are raving about their tweeter as well - wonder how the tweet compares to the Seas Neo?

Thanks for the suggestion, definitely going to be an easier decision now.

 
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