Going Active --- $275 to spend on Mids and Tweets (Image Dynamics vs. HAT vs. CDT?)

[ricebowl 10+ year member]

you even know what Qes is?QTS is before losses freeair..

I guarantee you not a single companies 6.5 midbass/range can put up 135db IB to keep up with 90% of the substages they at paired width..

efficiency no as in 1watt/1meter I'm talking about bandwidth efficiency and system efficiency..

I don't need to model anything up I've used more mids than most people know miss that exist..

most doors are over 1 cube over 4x the woofers vas.. a over damped electrical and underdamped mechanical driver isn't going to proform great IB..

anyone with experience will tell you that..

Do YOU know what QES is? Let me help you out.

Thiele/Small - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The compliance of the motor is just that. So unless you're cutting out the spider and surround, it's meaningless by itself.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

if you look at all of the highend car audio midbass that are known for excellent midbass they use a higher q higher fs VS those home audio drivers that usually have a fs of 35hz and a qe of .35

they are meant for small ported alignments..

 

[dontbeaprix 10+ year member]

kinda getting off topic

 

[ricebowl 10+ year member]

kinda getting off topic

Agreed. Just want to make sure that if people are gonna be looking at specs, they know what they're looking at.

 

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

Can you fit anything behind the hole opening? If you go to a pep boys (I at least know they have it) and get those mini plastic bowl like deals and poke 3 tack size holes in the dimples and put that Silver flute in it you'll be fine and love the out put and response. My friend has the 5 1/2's in his and that's what we did. Sounds great.

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

Agreed. Just want to make sure that if people are gonna be looking at specs, they know what they're looking at.

The only downside to looking at published specs is when the manufacturer flat out lies about their published specs.

 

[ricebowl 10+ year member]

The only downside to looking at published specs is when the manufacturer flat out lies about their published specs.

Yeah, man. And that downside is compounded when people who don't know how they apply use them to make some kinda point.

 

[Swinger Vic 10+ year member]

Although I have no direct experience with active...

1. To add more midbass you need a speaker to drive lower, usually a larger speaker OR a better built speaker. Lowest price to stay in your range is a larger speaker 7-8 inch. Initial thoughts are the Dayton 180 mid or Silver Flute mid for price. Both would add a little more midbass but easily improved in an enclosure.

2. I would recommend other speakers for power such as the Vifa dual ring tweeter, lower Fs/crossover, louder (raises the soundstage), good off axis response and the LPG metal which are a little harsher but I found them to be copies of Diamond in my opinion.

3. Even the best home audio speaker still uses complex (expensive) passive system (and enclosure). Active you will have more adjustment opportunities. Going active, I say aftermarket speakers.

Speakers will be in your budget, pod not so, or look into DIY pod

 

[hari-bhari 10+ year member]

thanks for all the tips guys, ill let you know what i end up wuth. May go with some secondhand clarus and run them active

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

my suggestions are still as follows..

get a decated 8" midbass that's ideal for you door size and something that has decent xmax..

Dayton Audio RS225-4 8" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm - Reference Series - Loudspeaker Drivers By Series - Loudspeaker Components

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

goin with wat u listed i'd recommend the ID CXS 62 instead of the 64 that way you can get a lil more power from the amp. for the mids

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Do YOU know what QES is? Let me help you out.
Thiele/Small - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The compliance of the motor is just that. So unless you're cutting out the spider and surround, it's meaningless by itself.

I've done comprehensive write ups and developed formulas noone has used for several aspects..

those lame *** definitions of TS parameters dint give the average person a idea of what they really mean and how they affect the driver..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

goin with wat u listed i'd recommend the ID CXS 62 instead of the 64 that way you can get a lil more power from the amp. for the mids

those drivers are nice..

I want to try the x 65..

honestly though he needs mire cone area that little power gain isn't likely to give him air more output unless the I'd is as efficient which I don't think it is..

 

[budahbuddy803 10+ year member]

I used to have an 01 solara. I fully deadened my doors and ran my IDcx62v1s off of ~50rms a piece and they were crucial. I believe I had them down to 60hz on a 18db slope for a while and then moved it up to 80hz on 12db slope. Either way, I was getting great midbass running IB 6.5" speakers in the door. I also used 3/4" mdf mounting rings so that helped with the depth issue. Neither the plastic door panel nor window would hit the magnet and those speakers are fairly deep. If you are interested in any pics from my setup i can get them for you.

 

[ricebowl 10+ year member]

I've done comprehensive write ups and developed formulas noone has used for several aspects..those lame *** definitions of TS parameters dint give the average person a idea of what they really mean and how they affect the driver..

Great, dude.

Still has nothing to do w/ motor compliance taking precedence over total Q.