your not going to get a good deal of output..Ive done that actually, full treatment. Just looking for something that will sound good IB so I don't have to build enclosures
Uhhh... False on most accounts.your not going to get a good deal of output..your going to have to cross the midbass at around 100hz..
not only that most of those drivers with a low fs and low Qes are absolutely horrible Canadits for any car audio midbass/range..
few drivers like cdt es6 focal pk2 and helix drivers are built for such an app..
the ideal mid for 150 per driver which us what you need to keep up with a pair if 12s and 1200 watts..
qe around .5 to .65.
fs close to xover point no lower that 65hz..
alot of linear throw.. at least 8mm xmax
a very well damped and sealed door..
a very stiff cone that doesn't breakup below 2500hz..
sadly there's not a driver on the market that meets these parameters..
Agreed, I have used both of them as well.Hearing the RS180s IB in a door panel versus sealed in a mustang Shaker 500 location, I must say that I prefer them sealed for midbass response. IB, the RS180s were easily trumped in performance by the ID OEM drivers from many moons ago.
Are those the Silver Flute mids? I'm using some right now.For my truck there's ample room ON the door for an enclosure.
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o really? to much dampening kills lowend extension in IB..Uhhh... False on most accounts.
QTS doesn't matter when you're crossing over far higher than Fs. No need for a high Fs. No absolute NEED for 8mm xmax.
you even know what Qes is?Yes, really.
By your assertions, nearly no one is getting decent to good midbass out of their door mounted 6.5" woofers.
Secondly, go ahead and model up some speakers and see just how much power is required to take them beyond xmax IB at round 60-80hz (hint: not much). Efficiency is overrated for this application.
Thirdly, Qes by itself matters not. Total Q, Qts, may be.