Glue questions

[1ndatrunk 10+ year member]

I need advice on what kind of glue to get to do my recone. I need something that I can buy locally, rather than have to buy off of the net. I was looking at 5min epoxy or Loctite, but I'm not sure they can be used for everything.

The spider is connected to a plastic spider ring, so would either of these hold a metal (basket) to plastic (spider ring) contact? Also the dustcap is plastic, so would these also be good for a plastic dustcap-to-paper cone bond?

I've also heard that even if the epoxy works for most of the recone, that the surround shouldn't be glued down with it, is that true?

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[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Why can't you buy online?

 

[1ndatrunk 10+ year member]

Don't want to. I want it tomorrow, not next week

 

[Toxic Tuan 10+ year member]

Automotive Goop glue is a good alternative. I haven't bought it in a very long time. Gorilla glue works too...but isn't quite as good. You can also go to an RC hobby store...they usually have CA glue in stock.

Tuan

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

Automotive Goop glue is a good alternative. I haven't bought it in a very long time. Gorilla glue works too...but isn't quite as good. You can also go to an RC hobby store...they usually have CA glue in stock.
Tuan

Gorilla Glue == No.

Something tells me a glue that expands and precise glueing don't match.

IIRC: CA Glue is just normal ass Super glue.

Go to your local hobby store and be like, "CA GLUE, NAO!"

 

[Toxic Tuan 10+ year member]

Gorilla Glue == No.
Something tells me a glue that expands and precise glueing don't match.

IIRC: CA Glue is just normal ass Super glue.

Go to your local hobby store and be like, "CA GLUE, NAO!"

Have you ever used gorilla glue? It's not the best but when you're out of options, it'll work.

CA glue is NOT "just normal ass Super glue."

Tuan

 

[1ndatrunk 10+ year member]

Will the ca-glue work on the spider and dust cap? The only recone that I did, I noticed that the ca glue I had would melt the plastic once I applied the activator. Is that normal? Do I have to use the activator, or can I just let it sit for a day?

 

[Toxic Tuan 10+ year member]

CA glue is what manufacturers use for just about every joint on a subwoofer. If you're melting plastic...that means you're using too much activator. Using a lot of activator will heat up and harden your glue joint fast...but the joint won't be as strong. You should always let the joints cure for 2 days minimum...unless you're rushing to build for a show then use more activator.

Tuan

 

[1ndatrunk 10+ year member]

CA glue is what manufacturers use for just about every joint on a subwoofer. If you're melting plastic...that means you're using too much activator. Using a lot of activator will heat up and harden your glue joint fast...but the joint won't be as strong. You should always let the joints cure for 2 days minimum...unless you're rushing to build for a show then use more activator.
Tuan

Since you seem to know what you're talking about, would you use epoxy or ca glue? Would the IC-2000 ca glue be better than 15 min epoxy? Would I need a rubberized ca glue, and would the epoxy be good on the surround as well as the spider landing?

 

[Toxic Tuan 10+ year member]

Since you seem to know what you're talking about, would you use epoxy or ca glue? Would the IC-2000 ca glue be better than 15 min epoxy? Would I need a rubberized ca glue, and would the epoxy be good on the surround as well as the spider landing?

CA glue all the way on both surround and spider landing.

Tuan

 

[1ndatrunk 10+ year member]

What about the dustcap? Its plastic, if that makes any difference

 

[IA2 10+ year member]

CA stands for "cyanoacrylate" and is the main ingredient in super glue. If you go to the hobby store, and ask for CA, they will sell you standard super glue....most people going in there are building model airplanes with it...lol. You definitely want to ask for the rubber toughened CA (foam safe type), and also get some activator.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

go to ur local hardware and get gorilla super glue it is rubber toughened and works very well. for your surrond and dust cap get e6000 or goop will also be at the hardware. i have built a few 1500rms subs with the gorilla glue 0 failures!

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

go to ur local hardware and get gorilla super glue it is rubber toughened and works very well. for your surrond and dust cap get e6000 or goop will also be at the hardware. i have built a few 1500rms subs with the gorilla glue 0 failures!

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

omg there is some fail up in here.

Never use epoxy to glue anything on a sub, major reason being i'll kick your ass if you do //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif You know how hard it is to take that **** off when the sub needs another recone? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

You can not always get BSI IC-2000 in toughened rubber format since hobby stores hate carrying it since it has a very low shelf life, and since its pricey to begin with they don't even want to mess with it since it might dry out and then someone might buy it then have to do a refund. Plus, when you use it, it stinks all to high hell //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

IMO, IC-2000 Maxi Cure in combination with the activator is the best solution. My fastest recone - to - installed and playing time was 15 minutes on an 18" HDC //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

...also, for noobs or just wanting to have a bit of insurance when you do a recone - hobby lobby sells a de-bonder for $3 that will save your ass if you screw up. Works even if its been dried for hours.