Getting the best audio from an iPad

[kingcodez]

In my car I currently have my iPad 2 hooked up to a Ram mount outputting through the 3.5mm to some crappy HU which then sends a signal to my amp/speakers and my other amp for the sub. I read that the 3.5mm jack isn't too good for audio compared to the dock connector.

Anyways the Ram mounts to the seat bolt, which prevents my passenger seat from folding forward. I planned to build a custom ipad mount into the center dash, but it occurred to me that I could buy a thing that my Ram holder could mount to, and then attach that to the dash. I plan to blank off and remove the HU, bolt the ball end of this adapter to that, and attach my ipad directly where the HU used to go. This saves my vents, my paint, and a lot of time. Scosche was making a double-din product like this but it was cancelled because it is illegal in the US or something.

Anyways, I want to charge my ipad while grabbing audio from just the dock. I don't want the dock to output to a 3.5mm jack since I wont have a HU. There are a few ways to do this, one is to use the Apple Composite AV cable, the other is to use a reg. dock cable, USB extender, then a USB-RCA adapter. Either way I have to get the cable to the back of the car, and then have it connect to the AMP and hardwire it into the car's power. Has anyone used this kind of cable? Do the same rules for RCA shielding apply when dealing with a USB cable? I could also use the apple cable and then RCA/USB extenders at the end to reach back, but I dont know if I should be using so many connectors and the connector on the ipad side is too big.

I'd like to hear everyone's ideas on this, as well as running without a HU. I plan to also buy this volume knob which has it's own power supply to eliminate the fuzzy sound, this is RCA and is highly recommended.

Also, do they make some sort of radio that is small and/or outputs in RCA? It would be a hell of a lot easier to put a RCA switch in my dash somewhere and tuck a small radio box in there. I just hate my HU because I can't get it back in its cage, and it has lights and just *****. Too many wires and it just isn't needed when I have an iPad for my A/V.

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[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i use a cable that has the Apple 30 pin on one end and a 3.5mm stereo audio and separate USB connector on the other end. This provides audio separate from the USB connector which is for charging only. I then installed a cig lighter usb adapter (2.1A) in the center console so i just have the one cable that uses the 30 pin only.

audio quality is identical to the headphone jack but more reliable physically. it is not volume controlled, however. it is a fixed volume signal. so the head unit provides volume control (and may other audio processing features). the only audio output that you can change the volume of is the headphone jack - which is not reliable if you put any strain on the connector.

there is no audio on the USB connector, it is charging and digital data transfer only.

if you want it to sound good, you should buy a nice head unit.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

i use a cable that has the Apple 30 pin on one end and a 3.5mm stereo audio and separate USB connector on the other end. This provides audio separate from the USB connector which is for charging only. I then installed a cig lighter usb adapter (2.1A) in the center console so i just have the one cable that uses the 30 pin only.
audio quality is identical to the headphone jack but more reliable physically. it is not volume controlled, however. it is a fixed volume signal. so the head unit provides volume control (and may other audio processing features). the only audio output that you can change the volume of is the headphone jack - which is not reliable if you put any strain on the connector.

there is no audio on the USB connector, it is charging and digital data transfer only.

if you want it to sound good, you should buy a nice head unit.

While your here..lol

I have done several dash mounted Ipads over the years and used a wide array of different processors and such for integration. From your SQ stand point, which would you prefer?

For us the bitone was a nice unit to use, but with the new RF 3sixty and other options I was curious to get your opinion.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

Yes like that, but if you don't want to add an RCA adapter to that 1/8 inch plug, this may work too, RCA Composite AV TV Video Cable w/USB Charger for iPad 2 3 iPhone 4S 4 3GS | eBay

And as keep hope alive said, get a cigarette plug charger with a USB plug to keep the iPad charged! To run it without the HU you would have to use the earphone plug for volume, a preamp would be great, if no aux input available in the HU

 

[kingcodez]

Yeah I have one of those, another problem is that my ipad sits directly in front of the HU, and the AUX-in is right there too. So the ipad is butting against the AUX cable all the time and I can't get to the volume knob I've damaged several cables from the bending already. I don't like that cable because like you said, it needs to be hooked up to the cigarette lighter and then you have a 6' long cable bouncing around. My system doesn't sound bad, I just don't like having the HU there, my ipad there, and a bunch of wires there. I'm talking about doing this as an alternative to a custom in-dash ipad enclosure.

That cable will output audio through the dock connector then to 3.5mm, to me that sounds crappier than going through the dock connector directly to RCA. That 30 pin cable carries everything including sound/video/data, you just need to have the right stuff on the other end to separate it.

 

[kingcodez]

Yes like that, but if you don't want to add an RCA adapter to that 1/8 inch plug, this may work too, RCA Composite AV TV Video Cable w/USB Charger for iPad 2 3 iPhone 4S 4 3GS | eBayAnd as keep hope alive said, get a cigarette plug charger with a USB plug to keep the iPad charged

Yeah this is the cable I was talking about. I planned to connect this to a line driver/volume control, then to an EQ, then that to the AMP/Sub.

I will hardwire the USB cable directly to the vehicles power supply.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

While your here..lol
I have done several dash mounted Ipads over the years and used a wide array of different processors and such for integration. From your SQ stand point, which would you prefer?

For us the bitone was a nice unit to use, but with the new RF 3sixty and other options I was curious to get your opinion.

obviously, you want one with a separate volume control - which lends itself well for the Audison piece. i agree that is an excellent processor to pair with a good system.

i think the "right" processor is unique for each client and system. there is no singular solution for everyone. heck, a miniDSP kit could work just fine. but the level of control at the dash is probably the defining factor. do they want fader? do they want access to EQ or sub level?

i am a tweaker. i adjust crossover points while listening/driving. i evaluate differences in T/A and A/B compare. each song offers a different opportunity to tweak and learn. i look forward to longer road trips (for work, alone) to be able to tune and tweak. i cannot suffice with a laptop interface. i need something handy, at my fingertips. i loved the PXA-C701 controller for this.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

yea, you could get a dash-mount EQ that includes a volume control. there is no audio difference in any of the 30 pin connectors - it's the same pins internally. RCA vs 3.5mm makes zero difference for how it sounds. the benefit is not having to use poorly made adapters. even worse, those cables are terribly cheap - very poorly made. i'm already having to repair the split in one because the tiny wires came apart at the triangle-shaped split.

 

[kingcodez]

Well for volume control, I found this: CL-RLC - Car Audio - OEM Interface - System Expansion - JL Audio

And as far as the cables go I'd probably just go with OEM Apple cables.

My goal is to tuck EVERYTHING into the dash (Beetle, lots of space) or mount it all in the trunk. This means that the only thing where my radio used to sit would be a ball adapter for the iPad to latch on to, and a 30-pin connector coming out next to that adapter. No headunit to have funny visuals, nothing.

I'm mainly curious about running without a HU. I think I can move my amplifier and put it either in my glove box, or where my passenger airbag used to be. A half-DIN EQ can just be thrown into the glove box as well. AFAIK the EQ takes car of most of what the HU does, and I have a volume knob, the only thing I'm losing is the radio and a CD player.

What is better, an EQ connecting to my Alpine Amp which has an output for an additional subwoofer amp. Or is it better to have the EQ output to two separate amps?

I have a 4 channel 300w RMS Alpine amp driving two front speakers. Then I have some cheap amp driving a $50 kicker sub in a box in the trunk.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i was also thinking about that JL audio product. i'm glad you brought it up.

if you get a good EQ, it will include level control for the sub amp - so you want the EQ to feed each amp separately. i use sub level control constantly - to match how each album was mixed/recorded with my preference. that is why i love Alpine - sub level is one vol knob press away.

i agree iPad as a source is a cool concept and certainly, a viable one with the right interface. i have the 3G 64GB version 1. i have thought about it as a source unit plenty.

 

[kingcodez]

I think I might already have sub level control, the AMP that is for the sub has a wired potentiometer which controls the actual volume of the subwoofer. Most of the time anything more than 10% is too much, but that is partly due to the way I have it setup.

This basically the only good EQ I could find on Amazon: Amazon.com: Clarion EQS746 1/2 DIN Graphic Equalizer with Built-in Crossover: Car Electronics

I'm sure there are others but I get free shipping with Prime and a great return policy. Would something like that work or do I need to move into the $200 range? If I have the EQ splitting the signal for speakers/subwoofer, would I then need to mess with the crossover settings on the amps, or does the EQ take care of that the best?

I have good hiding places for an EQ of that size versus climbing into the trunk and messing with my stupidly located/oriented amps that have junk buttons/knobs. I'm trying to stay as close to the "dedicated hardware" route as I can, as that usually produces the best results for me. An amp should amplify, a crossover should cross, an EQ should EQ, which means there is no use for a head unit--something that does all of these functions poorly.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

I think I might already have sub level control, the AMP that is for the sub has a wired potentiometer which controls the actual volume of the subwoofer. Most of the time anything more than 10% is too much, but that is partly due to the way I have it setup.
This basically the only good EQ I could find on Amazon: Amazon.com: Clarion EQS746 1/2 DIN Graphic Equalizer with Built-in Crossover: Car Electronics

l for under $100?

I'm sure there are others but I get free shipping with Prime and a great return policy. Would something like that work or do I need to move into the $200 range? If I have the EQ splitting the signal for speakers/subwoofer, would I then need to mess with the crossover settings on the amps, or does the EQ take care of that the best?

I have good hiding places for an EQ of that size versus climbing into the trunk and messing with my stupidly located/oriented amps that have junk buttons/knobs. I'm trying to stay as close to the "dedicated hardware" route as I can, as that usually produces the best results for me. An amp should amplify, a crossover should cross, an EQ should EQ, which means there is no use for a head unit--something that does all of these functions poorly.

That unit is good, looks like the crossover is just for a Low pass (the sub) The EQ may work as a crossover but I doubt it will fully clean some frequencies you don't want to send to a 6 1/2 inch driver, if you only have a set of components with a passive crossover you may get away with clean sound, using a coaxial may be a different story. For $50.00 seems like a good deal, you still are going to need a volume control for the full range speakers. Can you get at least a good 4 ch HU with a rear USB port for Ipad control for under $100? and bridge the rears for the sub, maybe it gets more expensive by the time you add a dash, antenna and wiring kit for it. You need some preamp for volume and an HU maybe easier if not cheaper. Just my opinion, at least you get a radio with an HU.