Getting a sedan...need some sound advice!

[Jobin 10+ year member]

Ive never had a sedan before so I need some advice...

Currently I have a modded '03 RF Power 1500.1 doing 2300w @ 1 OHM or 1600w @ 2 OHM, so I have a lot of power to play with. I was considering either going with 3 12 L7's sealed (1.4cu per), or 3 10 L7's ported (Kicker street bass spec) if I have the room.

Then I started thinking about just going with 2 L7 12's ported (Street bass spec) with around 1100w going to each sub. Which one of these setups would be most ideal for SQL? The setup would be going in a '06 Dodge Charger.

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[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

that had better be a hemi boy

 

[Jobin 10+ year member]

that had better be a hemi boy

but ofcourse

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

time alignment to get your rear speakers to sound right if you are in the front.

 

[Jobin 10+ year member]

time alignment to get your rear speakers to sound right if you are in the front.

rear is mostly fill in that car. i might not even add rear deck speakers and just keep the holes open for bass to enter the cabin

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

rear is mostly fill in that car. i might not even add rear deck speakers and just keep the holes open for bass to enter the cabin

then you can get funky cancellation. if you are venting it into the cabin, its better to do it right with the subs firing into the cabin though a baffle that seals off the cabin from the trunk.

in a sedan or anything where people are sitting in the back, its better to have some form or rear fill. it keeps it decent to ride back there and its just clasier in a nice car.

 

[Jobin 10+ year member]

then you can get funky cancellation. if you are venting it into the cabin, its better to do it right with the subs firing into the cabin though a baffle that seals off the cabin from the trunk.
in a sedan or anything where people are sitting in the back, its better to have some form or rear fill. it keeps it decent to ride back there and its just clasier in a nice car.

ill keep that in mind. any advice on the sub selection?

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

ill keep that in mind. any advice on the sub selection?

what do you want out of your substage?

 

[Jobin 10+ year member]

what do you want out of your substage?

Nice and crisp around the 60 to 80hz range, then painful and moving around the 40hz range. I dont want something that sounds like its bottoming out or not even there at 30 to 40hz.

 

[Jobin 10+ year member]

bump

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

Nice and crisp around the 60 to 80hz range, then painful and moving around the 40hz range. I dont want something that sounds like its bottoming out or not even there at 30 to 40hz.

i really like the treo tsx's. they sound and perform great. the other sub that i would say is the w6v2. the will get plenty deep as long as you have some power behind them.

 

[80INCHES 5,000+ posts]

2 mag 12's or get 2sx 12's or 2 mt12's subs from the re group buy

80

 

[Justinw303 10+ year member]

then you can get funky cancellation. if you are venting it into the cabin, its better to do it right with the subs firing into the cabin though a baffle that seals off the cabin from the trunk.

Sorry to thread-jack, but I have a question about what you said...

Could to explain that a little to me? About how it will cause cancelation and make it sound funny?

 

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

My vote is two sealed 15" XXX's

To save money - a single ported 15" XXX would be pretty amazing, or asealed 18

 

[937DYTBOI 5,000+ posts]

hit up the group buy quickly awesome sale going on homie