**GetLikeMe 4 SA-12's / 3500D Build Log! **

Glad to hear that, ya I've herd nothing but good about these batts. Thats why i was thrown off by that guys comments that there only for "burps" I was like wow lol thats a first:X I'm getting closer to finishing this starting to get real hahaha
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Soon! just got my wisdome tooth pulled today..

anyways i get home my batcaps were here:) well come to find out batcap sent toolmaker the wrong specs and the battery terminals dont fit !! Well being the good guy toolmaker is he paid for shipping back to him and is going to fix them free of charge. So they will be sent back out tomorrow so that sucks ;\ but ohwell I got my batts will probably mount them in and build battery rack and do what i can.. to keep the install moving.

Anyways heres the batts.. Also got fuseholders, stinger voltmeter and 8gauge stinger hpm..

img1683ap.jpg


 
Well since my terminals wont be back til next week. Thought I'd still hook up my front battery in meantime. Fits perfect and rests at 14.1 and with car on 14.6(got a cheap DMM so might be off). Also mounted and hooked up my 4 channel amp (except power wires) since I was bored and wanted somthing to do! haha heres pics..

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looks good, i just dont understand why your ran two runs for your ground. i understand theres goin to be a battery in the back BUT, the whole chassis is a ground, and is a better ground then running a wire from the neg post to the amp/AUX battery

 
looks good, i just dont understand why your ran two runs for your ground. i understand theres goin to be a battery in the back BUT, the whole chassis is a ground, and is a better ground then running a wire from the neg post to the amp/AUX battery
my voltage is SOOO much more stable with a ground run. even with the big 3 i still had noticeable voltage drops. now i hold 15.2v with a stick 140a alt and 1 extra battery.

"Ground" runs > grounding to frame

 
looks good, i just dont understand why your ran two runs for your ground. i understand theres goin to be a battery in the back BUT, the whole chassis is a ground, and is a better ground then running a wire from the neg post to the amp/AUX battery
Incorrect. In high current scenarios such as this one, the frame rail/chassis is a poor conductor. Lots of corrosion, welds, thin metal, etc. makes for a poor ground.

For modest setups it works fine, but if you are trying to pull 300+ amps through the chassis you will notice a difference running ground wires.

Copper is a much MUCH better conductor than steel.

 
looks good, i just dont understand why your ran two runs for your ground. i understand theres goin to be a battery in the back BUT, the whole chassis is a ground, and is a better ground then running a wire from the neg post to the amp/AUX battery
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