Fuse block discussion for two amps And two batteries

Running a fosgate p600x4 rated for 80 amp fuse I'm which I purchased 80 amp fuse breaker for the amp side.

I'm currently adding a sub amp rated for 200 amp fuse which I'm adding at the amp between the amp and second battery behind seat

Question is Should I be exact at the engine bay battery fuse around 280amp rating or can I push for a 300 amp as they're the only ones I can really find online as a reset breaker .

In my setup how many actual fuse blocks should I have I've come up with 3 .

 
this chart is rough but it reminds you that total length matters. everything acts a resistor, copper is just has very low resistance until you go up in load, and circuit length.

tlbgP0u.jpg


 
I really hate those charts. Not because they're hard to read or anything, but because I have compared charts side by side and they all say different things. I try to err on the side of caution and go bigger, just in case.

 
I really hate those charts. Not because they're hard to read or anything, but because I have compared charts side by side and they all say different things. I try to err on the side of caution and go bigger, just in case.
i absolutely agree, but it is a great guide within probably +-10% for people who dont know want to mess with checking for voltage drop

 
you're still missing the point

someone who doesnt have a college education in a technical field isnt going to use that, even i dont use that with one, what, am i going to size the wire exactly? yeah no. most people just want to know what to use that will provide them the ampacity without significant voltage drop and possibly room for more power in the future. you want to send me 50 ft of every size i need go ahead

im not an engineer, i just know/do a lot of things relating to it with people who are engineers

 
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you're still missing the point
someone who doesnt have a college education in a technical field isnt going to use that, even i dont use that with one, what, am i going to size the wire exactly? yeah no. most people just want to know what to use that will provide them the ampacity without significant voltage drop and possibly room for more power in the future. you want to send me 50 ft of every size i need go ahead

im not an engineer, i just know/do a lot of things relating to it with people who are engineers
so how long now have i posted the correct links? I do the **** for a living I told numinous people the correct answer.. why on earth you people can't grasp it i'm not sure.

 
so how long now have i posted the correct links? I do the **** for a living I told numinous people the correct answer.. why on earth you people can't grasp it i'm not sure.
i forgot that because you're an idiot it ends up trolling people unintentionally

kinda like the endless posts about your well known and successful amp and sub prototypes

 
i forgot that because you're an idiot it ends up trolling people unintentionally
kinda like the endless posts about your well known and successful amp and sub prototypes
its not my fault you aren't smart enough to understand basic electrical concepts. they have PLENTY of calculators.

Voltage Drop Calculator

As far as my woofer goes i am more than happy at what i achieved. its a good design and works well in a variety of applications.

As i continue to test different theories i will continue to find new techniques and designs to improve on loudspeakers.once i get enough to design a microprocessor controlled driver its going to cheange how we look at drivers and how feedback is going to be a thing of the past.

imagine running a sweep like you where plotting frequency response and the amp/loudspeaker will make corrections to frequency response and lower distortion by making critical dampening adjustments real time both QMS and QES. it will be able to increase and decrease both parameters to the loudspeaker unlike servo designs that are feedback only based

 
This isn't guess work
its not my fault you aren't smart enough to understand basic electrical concepts. they have PLENTY of calculators.
Voltage Drop Calculator

As far as my woofer goes i am more than happy at what i achieved. its a good design and works well in a variety of applications.

As i continue to test different theories i will continue to find new techniques and designs to improve on loudspeakers.once i get enough to design a microprocessor controlled driver its going to cheange how we look at drivers and how feedback is going to be a thing of the past.

imagine running a sweep like you where plotting frequency response and the amp/loudspeaker will make corrections to frequency response and lower distortion by making critical dampening adjustments real time both QMS and QES. it will be able to increase and decrease both parameters to the loudspeaker unlike servo designs that are feedback only based
Omg this again [emoji848]..
Lets slowly go into basics here..

How about i list some points to cut this post down...

1. Amplifiers are not efficient so cannot be easily calculated for voltage/ampacity

2. Different wires can meet or exceed NEC standards (welding wire to be specific)

3. Battery size and CCA can break NEC standards.

4. Doubling up on same size wire is not mentioned in NEC standards.

5. Distribution blocks break ampacity limits due to metals used.

6. Subwoofers do not all use same specifications.

Oh god i rather not keep listing, so the comment of +/- is very considerable on top of buying extra wire is needed.

We are not running transformers in our vehicles that isolate a certain amperage so no matter what! The ampacity and limits will fluctuate in a vehicle.

This is all covered in MECP classes, not electrician classes that deal with regulated power on a open/closed electrical grid.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 
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