JBL setup with a754, Fuse sub & Club 605CSQ advise please

[Wolkt]

Would really appreciate advise on the following setup scenario:
Would the following setup work well on the JBL a754 amplifier (a754 specs - 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms), 200 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode):

Speakers:
JBL Club 605CSQ (95watts RMS @ 3 ohm), and
JBL Fuse Sub (separated under 2 X seats - 200watt RMS 4 ohm separated).

Idea is to wire as follows:
605CSQ in doors on a754 channels 1 & 2, and separated Fuse (under left & right seats) units on channel 3 & 4.

Connection Options:
1) 2 separate Fuse units on channel 3 & 4 - wired in series (8ohm) and connected bridged on channels 3 & 4, or

2) 2 separate Fuse units left & right - wired as left and right subs on channels 3 & 4

JBL Product Pages:
JBL Club a754 Amplifier- https://www.jbl.com/car-amplifiers/CLUBA754.html
JBL Fuse Sub - https://www.jbl.com/SUBWOOFER.html
JBL Club 605CSQ Speakers - https://www.jbl.com/car-audio-systems/CLUB605CSQ.html

Click to read more...

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Don’t over think the fuse thing; your system is pretty simple as far as the fuses are concerned, I’ll get to that in a bit. I don’t usually go and recommend rethinking the research you’ve already done but I know the JBL/Harmon industries stuff pretty well, NVX, pioneer, focal, Morel and a host of others pretty thoroughly too. That said, I would bail the JBL amp. Overpriced, under powered. This 5 channel Recoil amp, the RED1880.5 is the same price and is a lot more powerful and versatile should things change down the road. You can run the comps bridged (like 300x2) which is more power than you’ll ever need (that’s a good thing)! And no, you won’t blow the comps; you’ll likely never want to hear them at 100 watts let alone 300! Then, the sub channel you can run with the two subs, each sub in series with itself, 8ohms, and then the two subs in parallel to the 5th channel for a 4 ohm 600 watt output. You could also run them parallel down to 1 ohm for 980 watts of output, but no need, 600 watts to this set of subs exceeds their capability and at 4ohms the amp is hardly working ( think longevity). If you ever decided to get additional speakers, you can just run all for channels and the sub and still have gobs of power. Remember, no such think g as too much power!

RED1800.5 1,800 Watts Class-D Car Audio 5-Channel Amplifier, Mono 1 Ohm Stable, Remote Bass Knob Included - Recoil Audio

Features: Class-D 5-Channel Amplifier, 1,800 Watts Max Power, RMS 1,280 Watts x 1@1 Ohm; RMS 220 Watts x 4@2Ohm + RMS 980 Watts x 1@2Ohm; RMS 140 Watts x 4@4Ohm + RMS 600 Watts x 1@4Ohm. The mono channel is stable down to ONE Ohm, giving you the freedom to put even more subs in your system...

www.recoilaudio.com

Skip the JBL comps and at that price, go with the Pioneer Z series Pioneer TS-Z65CH. I’ve heard these side by side, the JBL’s are good, the Z’s are really outstanding. Same price, better speakers. Run them at 4ohms bridged, x2. That's some serious volume all the way around. They also have the option of attenuating the tweeter for minus 3db, flat or +3db, that's a nice feature.​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2248123737...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

FUSES-

One is all you will need. A fuse or breaker for the wire/amp current rating no further than 18” from the battery, inline on the power wire. A fuse or breaker 18” from the amp is never a bad Idea either but not nesscary. For power and ground wire in this setup, I would recommend (depending on the length of the run) at least 2AWG wire (if under 10ft), 1/0AWG if longer . I do not use CCA wire, only pure copper wire runs for me. CCA wire may be attractively priced but there is a reason it isn’t legal for electrical use in homes. Don;t hear a lt of people talking about CAP's these days, but for this setup (ones in the 1000 to 1800 watt range), a nice (REAL ratings) 2 farad cap would go a long way to helping out the amplifiers BASS performance and the cars electrical without breaking the bank. T-spec makes a nice reasonabley priced 3 farad cap with a covered/protected distro cap for around $70. THis guy offered me one at $67 after I started to follow it on eBay:

T-Spec V8-3DDC Digital Capacitor 3.0 Farad Distribution Top 168141554964 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for T-Spec V8-3DDC Digital Capacitor 3.0 Farad Distribution Top at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Wolkt]

Thanks for the feedback guys. However I'm more specifically interested in which of these options would be best to connect the JBL Fuse Sub woofers (separated as two units at 4ohm each) on the JBL Club a754 amplifier:

Connection Options:
1) 2 separate Fuse units (left & right) on channel 3 & 4 - wired in series (8ohm) and connected bridged on channels 3 & 4, or

2) 2 separate Fuse units left & right - wired as left and right subs on channels 3 & 4

The a754 has LPF and HPF settings on fronf and rear channels. My thinking is HPF enabled on front JBL Club 605CSQ speakers and LPF enabled on rear channels going to the two Fuse units.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If you’re going to stay with this configuration, you only need to fuse an amplifier for its rated current draw, you don’t fuse per channel so no; there aren’t separate fuse options for one amplifier. I’ve given you that information already and it still applies.

HPF crossover points on the fronts (IMHO) should be set at or slightly above their ability to play down to or at the same crossover point as the subs. I usually run my subs no higher than 80Hz. The JBL’s you list are rated from 48Hz, I’d start at 50Hz with the subs crossed at 80 then go up a bit with the comps and back down, see which sound appeals to you – set it and forget it. As for the subs, they can be run as a separate 2ohm (parallel) or separate 8 ohm (series) load in a two channel configuration as you have stated is your desire, you don’t have the option of running them at 4ohms to left and right, not a wiring option on these subs. Each of the subs has two 4ohm voice coils which in parallel are 2ohms or in series is 8 ohms, no 4 ohm option here. The amp is only 2ohm stable and that will provide you roughly 200 watts to each sub. The easiest way, and really the only way in which you can run them as sub a and b on channels 3 and 4 is at two ohms each giving you 200 watts per sub.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If you’re going to stay with this configuration, you only need to fuse an amplifier for its rated current draw, you don’t fuse per channel so no; there aren’t separate fuse options for one amplifier. I’ve given you that information already and it still applies.

HPF crossover points on the fronts (IMHO) should be set at or slightly above their ability to play down to or at the same crossover point as the subs. I usually run my subs no higher than 80Hz. The JBL’s you list are rated from 48Hz, I’d start at 50Hz with the subs crossed at 80 then go up a bit with the comps and back down, see which sound appeals to you – set it and forget it. As for the subs, they can be run as a separate 2ohm (parallel) or separate 8 ohm (series) load in a two channel configuration as you have stated is your desire, you don’t have the option of running them at 4ohms to left and right, not a wiring option on these subs. Each of the subs has two 4ohm voice coils which in parallel are 2ohms or in series is 8 ohms, no 4 ohm option here. The amp is only 2ohm stable and that will provide you roughly 200 watts to each sub. The easiest way (and really the only way in which you should run them as sub a and b on channels 3 and 4 is at two ohms each giving you 200 watts per sub. The other sub connection option you asked about only saves a few wires, nothing more. Having 3 and 4 bridged at 4ohms (400x1) is the same as separate left and right at 2 ohms (200x2=400), no difference in output from the amp;.

 

[Wolkt]

If you’re going to stay with this configuration, you only need to fuse an amplifier for its rated current draw, you don’t fuse per channel so no; there aren’t separate fuse options for one amplifier. I’ve given you that information already and it still applies.

HPF crossover points on the fronts (IMHO) should be set at or slightly above their ability to play down to or at the same crossover point as the subs. I usually run my subs no higher than 80Hz. The JBL’s you list are rated from 48Hz, I’d start at 50Hz with the subs crossed at 80 then go up a bit with the comps and back down, see which sound appeals to you – set it and forget it. As for the subs, they can be run as a separate 2ohm (parallel) or separate 8 ohm (series) load in a two channel configuration as you have stated is your desire, you don’t have the option of running them at 4ohms to left and right, not a wiring option on these subs. Each of the subs has two 4ohm voice coils which in parallel are 2ohms or in series is 8 ohms, no 4 ohm option here. The amp is only 2ohm stable and that will provide you roughly 200 watts to each sub. The easiest way (and really the only way in which you should run them as sub a and b on channels 3 and 4 is at two ohms each giving you 200 watts per sub. The other sub connection option you asked about only saves a few wires, nothing more. Having 3 and 4 bridged at 4ohms (400x1) is the same as separate left and right at 2 ohms (200x2=400), no difference in output from the amp;.

I think you misunderstood the Fuse part. The Subs I'm using is the JBL Fuse Sub. This Fuse Sub is 200watt RMS 2ohm when used in 'fused' (compined unit state. But when 'split' (separated) each unit has a 4 ohm load. See product links below:

Hence my question about wiring options:

Connection Options:
1) 2 separate Fuse units (left & right) on channel 3 & 4 - wired in series (8ohm) and connected bridged on channels 3 & 4, or

2) 2 separate Fuse units left & right - wired as left and right subs on channels 3 & 4

JBL Product Pages:
JBL Club a754 Amplifier- https://www.jbl.com/car-amplifiers/CLUBA754.html
JBL Fuse Sub - https://www.jbl.com/SUBWOOFER.html
JBL Club 605CSQ Speakers - https://www.jbl.com/car-audio-systems/CLUB605CSQ.html

I hope this makes it clearer. Thanks for brainstorm.

 

[spokey9]

from everything I found out about the fuse..it'll play up 180-200hz under the seats cleanly...so if you run it in on separate channels then you can use it to reinforce you midbass as well playing down to the mid 30's...

I'm just waiting to get off a couple amps and plan on using a fuse in my saturn...the wife got me a crescendo s6 for my bday so the fuse (the last touch hopefully for the vue) will be in the kicks...I'll be using the fuse as a front sub/midbass with the plan being to run it from 40hz to 200hz

 

[Wolkt]

from everything I found out about the fuse..it'll play up 180-200hz under the seats cleanly...so if you run it in on separate channels then you can use it to reinforce you midbass as well playing down to the mid 30's...

I'm just waiting to get off a couple amps and plan on using a fuse in my saturn...the wife got me a crescendo s6 for my bday so the fuse (the last touch hopefully for the vue) will in the kicks...I'll be using the fuse as a front sub/midbass with the plan being to run it from 40hz to 200hz

Thanks for your response. So yeah I think that my second option idea would be best in this setup.

Wiring 2 separate Fuse units (100watt RMS @ 4ohm) left & right - wired on the a754 amplifier as left and right subs on channels 3 & 4 (75watt RMS @ 4ohm).

The a754 has LPF and HPF settings on fronf and rear channels. My thinking is HPF enabled on front JBL Club 605CSQ speakers and LPF enabled on rear channels going to the two a&b Fuse units.

 

[Wolkt]

If you’re going to stay with this configuration, you only need to fuse an amplifier for its rated current draw, you don’t fuse per channel so no; there aren’t separate fuse options for one amplifier. I’ve given you that information already and it still applies.

HPF crossover points on the fronts (IMHO) should be set at or slightly above their ability to play down to or at the same crossover point as the subs. I usually run my subs no higher than 80Hz. The JBL’s you list are rated from 48Hz, I’d start at 50Hz with the subs crossed at 80 then go up a bit with the comps and back down, see which sound appeals to you – set it and forget it. As for the subs, they can be run as a separate 2ohm (parallel) or separate 8 ohm (series) load in a two channel configuration as you have stated is your desire, you don’t have the option of running them at 4ohms to left and right, not a wiring option on these subs. Each of the subs has two 4ohm voice coils which in parallel are 2ohms or in series is 8 ohms, no 4 ohm option here. The amp is only 2ohm stable and that will provide you roughly 200 watts to each sub. The easiest way (and really the only way in which you should run them as sub a and b on channels 3 and 4 is at two ohms each giving you 200 watts per sub. The other sub connection option you asked about only saves a few wires, nothing more. Having 3 and 4 bridged at 4ohms (400x1) is the same as separate left and right at 2 ohms (200x2=400), no difference in output from the amp;.

Thanks again for your input. However, with regards to the second part of your answer: The JBL Fuse unit is 2ohm when using combined or wired as 2 separate units in parallel, or 4ohm each when separated. See attached specs:

So only options to wire to JBL Club a754 amplifier is:

Connection Options:
1) 2 separate Fuse units (left & right) on channel 3 & 4 - wired in series (8ohm) and connected bridged on channels 3 & 4, or

2) 2 separate Fuse units left & right - wired as left and right subs on channels 3 & 4

And I think option 2 is probably best, as you'll have more watts RMS powering the two I dividual JBL Fuse Subs. Might also be great to have two channels subs as recordings these days probably include stereo bass or lows. I'm not after SPL (volume) but rather quality and sound stage. After all it's going into a little van with a 2 seat cabin area separated by metal and glass panel from loading bay.

Wiring 2 separate Fuse units (100watt RMS @ 4ohm) left & right - wired on the a754 amplifier as left and right subs on channels 3 & 4 (power output 75watt RMS @ 4ohm).

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

My bad, yes, I read them each as having two 4ohm coils. The JBL diagram left a bit to be desired, IMO.
And a double yes, thought U was talking about fuses, not as in the name "Fuse". SMH! That JBL PDF diagram looked like the two units were one (to my old eyes) and that is what got me headed in the wrong direction.
In that case it really doesn't matter; the amp at twice any given impedance load bridged will be the same as it is per channel at half the load, roughly speaking - you'll not notice the output difference here, it's not enough to really impact that volume for the frequencies you will be dealing with on the subs. In this setup (this amp), you can only run it at 4-8ohms bridged so that is not a good option (and with the FUSE units, no 4ohm option brdged at all). That leaves 2 x 75watts to the subs, not much going there. That said, why are you stuck on that amplifier? In this application, there are much better options. SQ likes power too when applied correctly. I would argue that double the power need is optimum for dynamic range, better SQ for that matter - room to breath, especially for the money! Lots of great options for $250-$300 out there.