Full system install / Full beginner - Please help!

[JBB88]

Hi all, I am a complete audio beginner and want to thank you in advance for any support offered! I also apologize for my long post.

I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx that I am planning to install a complete system in......in maybe a year or so. BUT, in the next month I am going to be installing sound deadening material and new carpet so I thought that it would be an opportune time to run any cables now that I would need when it comes time for the audio equipment. This way I won't have to go through the work of removing my seats and pulling up the carpet for a clean install later down the road.

After a ton of research and cost consideration, I've decided to run dynamat xtreme throughout the entire car (cheaper per sq. ft. versus damplifier pro and almost equivalent performance), and second skin luxury liner pro on top of it (i) in the door cards, (ii) under the front seats and floor area, (iii) under the rear "foot" area, and (iv) in the trunk, under a piece of mdf that I will be cutting to the shape of the trunk floor.

I do have a bunch of questions and my thoughts are a little jumbled so I will do my best to organize this logically and in a linear manner..

I have previously relocated my battery to the trunk. Its running a 4ga power cable from the trunk to a 150 amp fusible switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ITN38XG/?tag=caraudiocom-20) and then to the fuse box in the engine bay, where it goes to the alternator, etc. The switch was installed as part of an anti-theft measure so I can flip the switch in the trunk and there would be no power. I think when I did my engine swap I also had a power draw somewhere that I ran out of time to chase down so I used the switch to keep my battery from getting drained.

As a side note, my car comes from the factory with either an 80 or 90 amp alternator. I have already "upgraded" to a Nissan Quest (minivan) alternator which is rated at 125 amps. It's a common upgrade for people with my engine swap.

I have narrowed down the components for my system to be the following, but I am open to other suggestions:

4x Alpine SPE-6000 Speakers (1 for each front door and 2 for the rear shelf)
1x Alpine R-W12D2 12" Subwoofer
1x Alpine X-A90M Mono Amp
1x Alpine S-A32F 4-Channel Amp
1x Alpine iLX-W650 Head Unit

1. Is this too much "system" for my single battery and 125amp alternator? Should I look into lesser powered equipment? Is it too much for my size vehicle?

2. Do the door speakers and rear shelf speakers require new wiring?...I think this is an obvious yes since they have to go to the amp and not to the head unit and the factory wire is super small (like 22 or 24 ga). I would have to run new wire from the doors to the dash area and then to the trunk where the amp is located? The rear shelf is already right near the amp's [future] location. If so, what gauge should I get here?

3. If each amp will require a signal wire from the head unit, am I able to splice 2 wires together (i.e. a "Y") from each amp together into 1 wire to the head unit for the signal/remote? What gauge wire should I use here?

4. This is a multi-part question. I want to get maybe 10-15 ft. of both red and black 1/0 gauge OFC cable for my trunk battery setup. I can re-do the ground cable in 1/0 and that should leave enough length for both amps' ground cables. (A) Can the amp ground cables go to the same chassis ground location as the battery?. I also want to run the 1/0 power cable from the battery to the fused switch, and then 1/0 to some sort of a power distribution block. The 4ga from the front of the car can go to the power block and both amps can run 1/0 power cables to the distribution block. (B) Do I need an inline fuse for each 1/0 power cable going from an amp to the distribution block? (this is in addition to the fused switch feeding the power distribution block)

So my shopping list should be....
3x RCA cable pairs? 1 for sub amp, 2 for 4 channel amp?
1x 100 ft. ...14ga red/black speaker wire?
~15 ft. 1/0 cable
1x 50 ft 14ga single wire for remote/signal
Various terminal ends, heat shrink, etc.

So that's all that I can think of now. Thank you for making it to the end and any advice you can offer!

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[Kickstand Premium Member]

Your going to want to replace that 4 gauge running from the alt to the battery with 1/0 gauge
I would put a bigger inline fuse in it but you might be able to get away with the one you have
Run 1/0 from the battery to a fused distribution block and then depending on the amp either 1/0 or some of your now not needed 4 gauge to the amps from the block
Run 1 or even 2 1/0 as a ground for the battery
A lot of people ground the amp right to the battery so using the same ground location is OK
Use some 1/0 to ground the engine block to frame of the car, you can just piggy back the stock one (power from alt to battery + ground for battery + chassis ground = Big 3)
I usually just run 1 remote wire from the front and the split it in the trunk to go to each amp.
Some people use relays but I have never used one and never had a problem
You can splice into the front speaker wires from behind your HU and then run them into the trunk, save you from the worst part of car audio.Wiring through the doors.
Just run new ones or the rears since they are so close to amps already
Run the power and the RCA's on opposite sides of the car
With the Dynamat I wouldn't concentrate so much on the floor, don't get me wrong still cover it but if I was going to put a second layer on it would start at the rear deck lid and then the rest of the trunk. I usually save a little bit to put on the back of the licence plate too.
A car that old is going to have some rattles so make sure you put some aside to address them as you find them after everything running. It is a never ending job.
When you are ready to instal everything remember that the box is the most overlooked thing but IMO the most important part
You can have the most expensive sub there is but in the wrong box it will sound like ****.
Make it yourself or have it made to the specs from your sub.
Just say NO to prefabs
I'm sure there is more but I'm having a senior moment and drawing a blank
Edit- If you have not yet you should look into a new AGM battery

 

[JBB88]

snip

Thanks bud, I really appreciate the input!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Looks like you've got some good input already here, but I'd just like to suggest you up-spend into Type R components for your fronts. R is a very solid performer at their price point and a very big upgrade over the S. I've heard both in person and I would not recommend the type S line to anybody, if that's your budget you'd do better with Kicker or JBL/Infinity offerings in that price range I think.

Also I'd feel comfortable using factory wiring to get your sound into doors/factory locations if running your own seems overly difficult. Just run a bundle up to behind the dash and connect to the wiring pigtail you'd get to install the new head unit. Not optimum but I've done this with more power and been fine. Some doors are easy, some are going to be a nightmare to either stuff more wire thorough the factory rubber conduits and drilling to make more space may be impossible without removing the door entirely which I'd avoid at all costs unless you are very comfortable with that sort of body work and don't mind a big project. Hell, some cars will still be difficult to just get up behind the kick panel where you can get out into the doors.