cool!dood ur so smartz teech me
That amp doesnt produce that much power dude,IRRC TypeRbass tested it against the kicker and orion 2500.The IA did 1800wrms at 1ohm period.first thing is first. no one said you were lying. we are saying your being misinformed by your friend. he is probably looking at a max rating and saying its the rms value.
second i ran a ia 20.1 on a new battery and a 200a alternator and i still got dimming. this amp is known to produce roughly 2400w @ .98 ohms. so if i get dimming with that amp AND a 200a alt hmm...
and third, i would love to see ANY 10" JL sub take 3500w for extended periods of time.
no it didntThat amp doesnt produce that much power dude,IRRC TypeRbass tested it against the kicker and orion 2500.The IA did 1800wrms at 1ohm period.
But yea the whole JL take 3500wrms,thats BS for a fact.
**** dude u are right,knockinit= dumb dick,but only for a few minutes.lolno it didnt
it produced 1800 @ 2.2 ohms
and
2400+ @ .98 ohms....
i had a talk (email) with nick from IA and he told me every amp hes benched was between 2200 and 2800w
exactly...i just dont get how n2audio says i cant comprehend automotive electrical...im always willing to learn...well...technically.
The alternator will only do so much.
You have to take into account the surge that the battery/batteries will supply. If you go by Georges Logic. The most power you would be able to get out of the largest daily alt setup that is reasonable (dual 300 amps) you would only be able to make right over 8kw. And we all know that there are larger systems out there that run more than 8kw daily. I have only a 260amp alternator...but I ran 5kw daily at one point...clamped. How does this work you may ask...its all in the batteries.
Sure, if your car doesn't have a battery.i just dont understand how people cant do the math?
105A x 14V = 1470w total potential power for EVERYTHING in your car....
THAT was my point....its all in the batteries.
Exactly??exactly...
It's not. Once the alternator can no longer keep up with the current demands the battery will begin to discharge to help these demands. You can get more current to the amp than what the alternator is rated to produce because of the discharging of the battery.anyone with more experience have an answer as to why my logic is wrong?
hmm i didnt know "supplying several hundred amps" from a battery wouldnt give you voltage drops....Sure, if your car doesn't have a battery.
THAT was my point.
Exactly??
Then you should account for a battery capable of supplying several hundred amps at 12v when you bust out the grade school math.
i realize that Lakota. what im saying is once the battery takes over (especially with as big of a current draw as 3500w can cause) your going to start getting voltage drops. but since the OP says hes getting no dimming what so ever i will assume hes getting no drops (or minimal). just by using deductive reasoning, its impossible to put out 3500w using 105+battery current and getting NO voltage drops (considering those are the 3 things that the OP says are happening)It's not. Once the alternator can no longer keep up with the current demands the battery will begin to discharge to help these demands. You can get more current to the amp than what the alternator is rated to produce because of the discharging of the battery.
loll, very possible.Maybe he has an amp rated @ 3500W at 1 ohm, but his sub is a D4 wired to 8 ohms?