It will be okay if it is not perfectly straight. If you are worried about sturdiness, add some bracing. If there are any gaps, just seal them up with chaulk on the inside of the box. As long as it is sealed up well, it should work out alright //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
What is the best way to glue the port to the box?Follow this design just like it says. Attach the port in the center between the subs. You basically just make a square box, cut 3 holes, two for subs one for port and glue on the port to the box. Try with low tuning first and start chopping the port shorter inch by inch until you get the sound you want. Use threaded rods or wooden dowels to brace the box. when it says number of extra baffles 1, it means have an extra front side cut and glue them together so it can support the subs properly. Use Birch ply or 7 layer or higher plywood. MDF will be heavy.
Buy this Take a tape measure and try to get as close as you can to 8 inches in inner diameter because they all vary in size.
Shop QUIKRETE 48-in Concrete Tube Form (Common: 8-in; Actual: 7.5-in) at Lowes.com
you need to get you a straight edge brother. you measure from the blade to the edge of the saws guide and add or subtract if from your original measurement. for example from the front of the blade to the edge of the saws guide is 2" and your cut has to be 14". mark your 14 and mark your 16".. then get your guild and put your guide on the 16" mark clap it down and line your saw up.. you should line up directly with the line. sometimes you gotta use the saw 180 degrees to make some cuts. just remember to subtract and place you guide on the other side. it takes a few times to get it.. don't get frustrated it takes a while to master it..
a router works best but get a fine tooth wood blade and take our time with the jig if you don't have a router..
Take a scrap piece of wood and drive a nail through one side of the piece then measure from the nail 5 5/8" and drive a nail into that spot. That first nail you can then hammer into the baffle. The other nail will dig a mark into the wood when you turn the wood in a circular motion. That will be 11.25" for the cutout. Then take a pencil if needed to make the mark darker. Drill a hole anywhere near that mark and use your jigsaw to cutout the sub opening.
I was gonna go with jeff's circular port idea. But i would rather do slot but sounds more difficult to get tuning correct.
while there in nothing wrong with jeffs' idea. I recommend this because the port helps strengthen the box. its not much harder to build. you would cut out a hole in the box on the same side as the sub 3.5wide*12.75 high. then cut a peace of wood 12.75x12. mark 3.5 inches from the side of the box down to 12 inches on top and bottom then line the peace up with the hole you cut and screw it from the front top and bottom..
