Finally, the Jeep JL build

Midbass and honestly lower mids period are pretty bad. The combination of the honestly mediocre Morel 6.5's and their location, plus the tiny sealed boxes they are in make it impossible to pull any performance out of them. I honestly don't have a solution for this.
That range is really tough in a car any way you slice it and is generally done in concerts, stadiums or even a good home system with large cone full range drivers. You see people using these "PA" woofers in cars filling up the doors but IMO it never really works as well as you'd think it should. Honestly I'd think the absolute best option would be to get a trunk in the front type car, get a sub that can play up to 200-300hz or so well and rely on that range being mostly non-directional hoping that your other fronts can pull things apart for some stereo separation.

My experience also shows that location/aiming can make or break your sound and I'd also agree that apart from sheer output the soundbar won't really deliver what you're after. Good luck, do please update if you put any of this stuff into practice!
 
I imagine the only option for us jeepers are these...

JL Jeep & JT Jeep Gladiator American SoundBar- Empty Enclosure | American SoundBar

Exclusive DS18 Overhead Bar System for JL/JLU, JT Jeeps (4x 8" Speakers 4x Tweeters) Black JT Jeep Gladiator DS18 speakers SoundBar – ds18caraudio

Exclusive DS18 Overhead Plug & Play Bar System for JL/JLU, JT Jeeps (2 – ds18caraudio

... and then find the proper 8" mid base to fill them with. Then we would be faced with adding more Subwoofer to keep up. It never ends, and its partially on us for buying the hardest vehicle built to make sound good. LOL

Lol yeah, not much out there unfortunately. Most decent subs set up correctly should keep up with something like that, the issue is that using something like that is going to throw your stage off horribly. If it was lower, like rear doors, I think it could be possible. But above and behind your head, no amount of tuning is going to correct it.

That range is really tough in a car any way you slice it and is generally done in concerts, stadiums or even a good home system with large cone full range drivers. You see people using these "PA" woofers in cars filling up the doors but IMO it never really works as well as you'd think it should. Honestly I'd think the absolute best option would be to get a trunk in the front type car, get a sub that can play up to 200-300hz or so well and rely on that range being mostly non-directional hoping that your other fronts can pull things apart for some stereo separation.

My experience also shows that location/aiming can make or break your sound and I'd also agree that apart from sheer output the soundbar won't really deliver what you're after. Good luck, do please update if you put any of this stuff into practice!

Agreed. I've done quite a home home audio systems, and am currently working on building my own. It's certainly much easier than a vehicle. I'll definitely be putting some of it into practice, it just comes down to time. Last 3 months I haven't worked less than 80 hours in a week. Once I get some time I'll start brainstorming more. I've considered custom 8's in the doors running off the spare midbass amp channels. They would share a dsp channel, but I could use the amp channel level settings to alternate between them. This would give me substantial midbass for normal driving conditions, but I'd still have the 6.5s when the doors come off. Better than nothing I think.
 
When a little nuts at the CT sounds sale a few months back. Just got a find the time to put it all in. Hope it all sounds OK. Do you think the stock 240 amp alternator and dual batteries is enough for 1600 W?
 

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