Few questions!

[Newbieee]

Hi everyone... I didn't know where to post this seen as I do have a few questions...

First, I am not a pro when it comes to audio systems (i've installed subs, amps and head units but nothing to heavy).

I have a CSX-s with the Navi 6.1 premium sound system. I decided to change my sub this year and ordered my amp (nothing too crazy as I will probably change cars next year).

First question:

My car has a factory amp (hidden behind the dash) and I was wondering if I could install the new amp without touching it? I would just unplug my factory sub and use those wires. (I would just need to pass the 12V wire, install the ground wire and install a remote wire).

Second question:

I think that my amp is too powerful for my sub so I'm wondering how I could calculate at what max level I could put it?

Here are the specs of my amp:

2-Channel Class AB ATX Series Car Amplifier

MAXX Power Rating (rms):

4 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan.

2 ohms: 500 watts x 2 chan.

Bridged, 4 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan.

Here are the specs of my sub:

12" Single 4 Ohm CS Series Car Subwoofer

Power Handling:

Peak: 1000 watts

RMS: 250 watts

Anyway, thanks!!!

Click to read more...

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

Kinda, sorta, not really.

Youll need to buy an LC2i and get the signal AFTER the factory amplifier.

For your sub and amp what amp and sub? Post a link i DOUBT those are rms numbers

 

[Newbieee]

What would happen if I didn't add the LC2i? Would it just thump a little less? Would it blow? If it's dangerous for the system, couldn't I grab the wires before and after the factory amp and just solder them together so that it skips the amp? I'm a full time student now and not sure my g/f would like me spending another 130$ for that haha.

Here's the amp:

Autotek ATX1000.2 ATX Series 1000W 2-Channel Car Amplifier

here's the sub:

CS1214 | Powerful 12 inch 1000-watt Car Subwoofer | JBL US

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

You wouldnt thump at all. Where are you getting your signals from? You need a line out converter.

Shes you g/f worry about it when shes your wife and you pay a mortgage and have kids.

Yea just set your gain right and youll be fine. That amp probably doesnt do half what it says.

 

[Newbieee]

I wish it was that easy... you know how girls are!! I'm more of a mechanic so I spend my money on performance... the sound is just a little bonus.

My factory sub is powered by the amp in front (not in the head unit, it's separate). I actually just plugged the sub speaker wires right into the sub and it worked (they aren't normal speaker wires so it's only the lows and not the highs)... That's why it's confusing for me, why couldn't I just transfer those speaker wires to component wires and plug them into the amp?... the signal is already for the lows.

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

If your a full time student we should be around the same age, and yea i do know how girls are ive been with my firl for almost 5 years and i dont let her tell me how to spend MY money. dont let your girl control your money. Its YOURS unless she pays for your bills. But that being said your stock amp puts out maybe 100w im guessing? Thats nothing. So yes itll work but you are barely tickling an aftermarket subwoofer with that. You need a sepcific signal that rcas give not just your speaker wires. Thats why they made hi/lo converters such as the lc6i. Now theyre are cheaper alternatives BUT they are GARBAGE amd ontroduce dostrotion and noise into the system.

Hi lo converters | Sonic Electronix Search

Take your pic but you need one of these to properly install an aftermarket amp into a factory system.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Hi everyone... I didn't know where to post this seen as I do have a few questions... First, I am not a pro when it comes to audio systems (i've installed subs, amps and head units but nothing to heavy).

I have a CSX-s with the Navi 6.1 premium sound system. I decided to change my sub this year and ordered my amp (nothing too crazy as I will probably change cars next year).

First question:

My car has a factory amp (hidden behind the dash) and I was wondering if I could install the new amp without touching it? I would just unplug my factory sub and use those wires. (I would just need to pass the 12V wire, install the ground wire and install a remote wire).

Second question:

I think that my amp is too powerful for my sub so I'm wondering how I could calculate at what max level I could put it?

Here are the specs of my amp:

2-Channel Class AB ATX Series Car Amplifier

MAXX Power Rating (rms):

4 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan.

2 ohms: 500 watts x 2 chan.

Bridged, 4 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan.

Here are the specs of my sub:

12" Single 4 Ohm CS Series Car Subwoofer

Power Handling:

Peak: 1000 watts

RMS: 250 watts

Anyway, thanks!!!

that amp most likely does 50 actual watts a channel on its luckiest day man. If you want performance, you need to make better choices. Brands that inflate and lie about their numbers may look like a good deal but you are getting completely ripped off.

I'd find an alpine mrp 500 used before buying anything from boss, autotek, lanzar, pyle, pyramid, power acoustik. Stick with monoblock amps not 2 channels.

You can use a cheap 20 dollar PAC line output convertor but you will need to disable the factory sub or else there will be cancellation.

 

[Newbieee]

Ah I already bought it... like I said, I'm more of a performance guy... I like modifying the engine way before the sound system. This is only to make it better than stock... I'm not an audiophile!

 

[Newbieee]

So If I use this on the factory sub wires it should be ok? Keep in mind that I'm not like you guys... I just want something a little better than the factory sub. I probably wont notice the little details in the sound (distortion) that you would.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So If I use this on the factory sub wires it should be ok? Keep in mind that I'm not like you guys... I just want something a little better than the factory sub. I probably wont notice the little details in the sound (distortion) that you would.

its not just distortion, with a weak amp, good chance you'll be less loud than the factory sub.

 

[Newbieee]

I doubt that seen as my factory sub was a 8inch non-inclosed sub that was on the back board and maxed out very quickly. I saw a good difference just taking the speaker wires off my factory sub and plugging them into the new one. Unless you're saying that adding the amp will make it less loud than just plugging the speaker wires into the new sub... but I would find that illogical.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I doubt that seen as my factory sub was a 8inch non-inclosed sub that was on the back board and maxed out very quickly. I saw a good difference just taking the speaker wires off my factory sub and plugging them into the new one. Unless you're saying that adding the amp will make it less loud than just plugging the speaker wires into the new sub... but I would find that illogical.

You can't just hook any sub to your factory amp. It has to match its impedance.

Adding a amp you will want the LC-2i. Cheap LOCs are noisy and they don't correct the factory roll off.

Honestly you might not know the difference.

 

[Newbieee]

I probably won't know the difference... anyway, I ordered a Xscorpion LC07... I'll see if I notice... if so, I'll just order the LC-2I. Just that I'm going to Ireland in a few months and getting my windows tinted in a month... I know it's only 80 bucks but I'm not making the same money as I used to seen as I'm back in school and Ireland isn't cheap!!! Thanks for all the information, it really helped me.

P.S. this is for my summer car that is still in storage.