Expanding the Hz range of a D-class mono

[MarshallIsMe]

Hi all! Wow I think it has been ten years since I last focused on car audio. I'm back!

Here's what happened that leads up to the title.

I bought an amp at Walmart. Yeah, laughing begins.

Actually I bought two. I bought a 125.2 Kicker DX series. Then I went and bought a kicker DX 250.1.

I bought them thinking I was going to power the doors, mmc650s by Polk, with the 125.2, and thinking I would power a pair of rear DS693s (kicker) off the mono amp. Stupid decision.

Well then I decided I was taking both amps back. Suddenly, I can only find one receipt; the one for the 125.2. So, I became stuck with the kicker monoblock d class that's brand new. Now I don't know but here's what I'm wondering:

The monoblock is definitely filtered just by looking at specs. In my mind I thought what the heck at first, maybe I can just run the 6x9s together as mono and lose stereo, since I have the Polks right next to me in the SUV. Then when I realized the filtering aspect, being a machinist I usually problem solve, so I thought, could I just open the amp up, find the cap(s) that are filtering out the high hz, and solder in new caps to the board? Or would I be better off keeping the amp new in box, and trading or selling for an actual 2 channel?

If this is something people do easily, I do solder a lot and this would not, presumably be hard for me to do, if that's all I would have to do. I could be at radio shack and done in an hour if it's as easy as the idea sounds. But could it be done that easily and worth it, or would it be worth the time of selling it as new, not getting this project finished quick, and waiting to find the right amp?

Thanks for any suggestions. I guess I'm a little antsy to get the 6x9s going soon is all. I do have an old Sony 202 the neighbor gave me, I could steal any parts from it's board I need to, because it's only 20w x2, possibly not even needing radioshack. Haha. Yeah this is goofy. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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[dbjunior 10+ year member]

Just get a new amp. The Sony maybe worth some money if its old enough post a pic.

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

You mean the frequency range?

 

[MarshallIsMe]

Yes hertz is frequency, right? I will post a pick but, why would it be worth something, are you saying I could use this amp and it may actually sound good?

I can't use Android to upload it's telling me to drag and drop which is impossible I have to host and post...one moment.

 

[Devil Tiger 10+ year member]

Wouldn't the filter knob on the amp be doing that?

 

[MarshallIsMe]

It says frequency response 20-200hz. Crossover, active at 80hz (fixed), 24DB subsonic @ 25hz fixed. Low pass only. So I don't believe that falls into the range of 3 way 6x9s.

The Sony is here:

 

[Devil Tiger 10+ year member]

Nope...******. I would just sell/trade it on CL.

 

[Rich B 5,000+ posts]

Amp the front speakers with whatever you have or buy, then buy some 6x9 subs for the back speakers to use with that Kicker amp.

Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer

Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer 264-837

You really dont need full range sound coming from the back, it screws up the soundstage that front speakers are trying to create.

 

[MarshallIsMe]

I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport. 2 door. So it's a short SUV. The front speaker locations are actually far front on the door from the factory, this vehicle came with the 6-disk "200w" system which was their best option at the time. So you pull the panel off and instead of having circular speakers that matched the holes, out had 3 way 6x8s, where the glove box did would swing past them. Instead of screwing with that grill there, I sound dampened the inside of the door panels and the metal door frames, then I used a router to cut out circular holes, left the original speakers there, but used their power to feed the external xovers on the Polks, and the 6.5s are mounted in the door panel itself now, as far forward and high as I could get then, and I used the circular plastic mounting spacer a the back side plate the speakers anchor to. So the speakers are now mounted basically right next to your hips and waist with enough gap, about 3"between your belt and the center tweeter. Just using the factory channel, the sound is amazingly better sounding and louder, I don't want bass so loud it blocks the words of music, I want loud super clean sound. But they, through all head set adjustment, do have some hiss when all the way up. If I look right where the rear 6x8 would be, it was a clean path right to my ear. So my plan was to do whatever is needed for super loud clean vocals up front, and then use a single 10" in the rear cargo area. Same theory as yours above, produce a sound stage so loud in the front half, the the rear sub won't drown out the clarity. Hence I was just going to machine a block spacer for the rear, so I could use these 6x9s in the 6x8 locations. Do you think it would be worth it to run the old Sony to power the Polks? Because 20x2 would be nothing for them...I want to grab a 300.2 for the fronts, because I would need to run them in 8ohm, I think, if both speakers are 4ohm and I want stereo through them, that's all I can do right? If I bridge them to 2ohm I lose stereo, right?

So what it comes down to is I have two brand new 6x9s 3-way, and a brand new 250.1, with no idea what to do now, if I want to finish the right way. Should I dump them both, Kicker 6x9s and amp, to get to a better place? I'm just not sure I like the sub in 6x9 idea, if I will have a cargo area sub also, when I could create more "soundstage" in the front half. That's my idea of thinking anyway.

New suggestions? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Sorry about word errors, it takes me a half hour to swype a post 90% correct, editing every word is so screwy when you jump around, it tries deleting and swapping words, so I won't give it any more time than it's making me which is already slow as heck. Just explaining, heh.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

There's a reason a 60$ class D amp crosses over @200hz, becuase it's NOT intended for full range. Full range class D requires a much more sophisticated (and expensive) circuit.

Assuming you could modify the LPF on that amp you would likely be very very disappointed with what came out of it >200hz

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

There's absolutely nothing you can do to make that old class D full range. It's not just a matter of a filter somewhere.