Electrical upgrades to 14v

a 300 amp can get very hot as most are designed for a certain RPM range and daily driving can make a it spin very fast and get very hot.
There are good reliable 300A alternators out there, and some are liquid cooled. But they can get very expensive and they are rare. Some may cost in excess of $800 when you can just get a good 200A that will do all that you need it to for $250-$400
makes sense.

 
You could back it up with batteries buck. like i said man im a daily driver but also do comp's when we have em here which isn't alot sadly:(. but i run a stock 120amp alt with a switched out voltage regulator;). but i make it up in batteries. but either way you have to remember which most people don't remember either is you can run 8 awg , 4 awg , 1/0awg but your always going to have resistance. just because the length of the wire that is being ran throughout the vechile. But that is where bigger wire comes in:D but granted there will always be resistance no matter what. but run all 1/0awg , BIG 3 , good set of batteries and u won't need the h.o. alt.

 
Dekas are very cost effective compared to other batts... 100 a/h for around 200 bucks. Kinetik hc1400 is 60 a/h for 229 plus shipping for comparison.

For some idea Im gonna be doing about 5k total and im gonna do three runs of 0 gauge... kinetik hc 1400 in the front... 2 or 3 dekas in the back off of stock 130 amp alt. Once I get it up and running I'm gonna see If I need the 250 amp alt. of course big three will be done... thats a must

 
i am running a stock 130amp alt and the gold duralast 1000amp battery upfront, no big 3 done yet, stinger spv70 in the back with a run of 1/0 pos and neg, at full tilt at idle only droping to right around 13 or slightly below

and thats 1600rms on the subs and 700rms on comps

 
what kind of ride u have? i have a voltage reg module that over rides the inter voltage reg to let u charge at 15.5v but dont shut down the safty features of the stock setting. so if u batts are full it drops to 14.8v or if the alt gets to hot it will back off the voltage. its for any GM car or truck with 4 prong alt sell it cheap if u intrested

 
I have a 200amp alt, yellow top, and i am currently trying to get a batcap 2000. I heard batcaps are better than the powermaster d3100. Cant wait til someone decides to sell me one!

 
to king ranch:
Do the big three.. I bet you youll stay .5-1.2 volts higher when theres a lot of pull on the system
you really think so with my lights on full tilt droping to 12.5 no lights it sits around 12.7-13 anywhere in there at full tilt at idle so thats not bad figured the big 3 can bring me up to stay at 13 or above

how much did it do for u

and atm only have a piece of 1/0 to do battery to chassis will that help at all or no since i dont have the amps or the back battery grounded to the frame

 
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