Electrical needs...

[West]

Ok so I am going to be upping my current draw to 270 A.

2 JL slashes (fused at 100A) - going to run them at 750w top each.

Also have my Mcc406m (fused at 70A)

Right now I have this amp kit installed (rated for 250 Amps): Copper Clad Aluminum

I am not going to be driving the system very hard on a regular basis, but it will see some a fair amount of use for 40 minutes twice a day.

So is an additional battery going to do the trick or do I need something more extensive? I am assuming I will not need to rerun another power cable to the car's battery.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Click to read more...

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Well assuming minimum efficient and pushing all your amps to the max... you'd need new wire. BUT, since you're NOT running those JLs at max, I'd estimate a total of 220a current draw at full tilt, which should be just fine. The only problem I see is that the JLs are total current hogs... but if you have them set for 750w, you should be ok. (Remember when I was telling you Mmats efficiency is awesome? I run my 2k.1 on my stock alt and bat with 4 gauge )

As for batteries, you're definitely going to need a stout battery under the hood, and likely another in the rear for support.

HO alt? Maybe.... you won't know until you get everything in. Worst case scenario, you need one and you turn the gain down. Best case scenario, you don't need one and you save several hundred dollars. What's your stock alt size?

P.S., you stink Stankybitch

 

[cdc351jeferson 10+ year member]

whats your charging system like ? alt size and battery?

 

[West]

[quote name='TheUnderFighter']Well assuming minimum efficient and pushing all your amps to the max... you'd need new wire. BUT, since you're NOT running those JLs at max, I'd estimate a total of 220a current draw at full tilt, which should be just fine. The only problem I see is that the JLs are total current hogs... but if you have them set for 750w, you should be ok. (Remember when I was telling you Mmats efficiency is awesome? I run my 2k.1 on my stock alt and bat with 4 gauge )
As for batteries, you're definitely going to need a stout battery under the hood, and likely another in the rear for support.
HO alt? Maybe.... you won't know until you get everything in. Worst case scenario, you need one and you turn the gain down. Best case scenario, you don't need one and you save several hundred dollars. What's your stock alt size?

P.S., you stink Stankybitch[/QUOTE]

Con man! Your bustin mai balls here... If I could of found a used mmats I would have done it. Payton sold his before I started looking. Got some people recommending these as being pretty beast n at a good price so I jumped in. Electrical was a bit of an afterthought, but maybe its time I get serious about C.a. and do a kick *** big three.

Anyway the battery is Batteries - Mega-Tron 35 Automotive Battery Five-Year Performance 550 CCA

The alt appears to be crap.
I believe the specs are
Voltage: 12 Volts
Amps: 90 Amps
Regulator Position: 3:00
Polarity: Negative
Output Stud Dimensions: M6-1.0

(Toyota 27060 03060 is the alt model number)
@cdc351jeferson ; There you go, thank you for your willingness to assist. I appreciate the advice.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Well big 3 will help you get all the juice you can from that alt. You listed the specs at 12V? I hope that means "12V charging system" and charges at 14V+, and not charges at 12V. Regardless, if it was me, I would say upgrade the stock battery to the biggest you can fit under the hood. You will want to do that anyway. Then buy a voltage meter. That will be the single most helpful tool for this situation. See where your voltages are at normally. An alternator really should be bought though. Look at the difference in your current potential vs draw. Over 100 amps, that's quite a bit. I would think an alternator would be almost absolutely necessary if you don't add atleast another one or two big batteries in the back, in addition to that upgraded under-hood. But again, you can take it slow and watch your voltages and only upgrade what's necessary if you want.

IMO, I would rather have electrical that is way beefier than needed vs. questionable though.

 

[West]

Well big 3 will help you get all the juice you can from that alt. You listed the specs at 12V? I hope that means "12V charging system" and charges at 14V+, and not charges at 12V. Regardless, if it was me, I would say upgrade the stock battery to the biggest you can fit under the hood. You will want to do that anyway. Then buy a voltage meter. That will be the single most helpful tool for this situation. See where your voltages are at normally. An alternator really should be bought though. Look at the difference in your current potential vs draw. Over 100 amps, that's quite a bit. I would think an alternator would be almost absolutely necessary if you don't add atleast another one or two big batteries in the back, in addition to that upgraded under-hood. But again, you can take it slow and watch your voltages and only upgrade what's necessary if you want.
IMO, I would rather have electrical that is way beefier than needed vs. questionable though.

Thanks!

I have a DMM and the P99RS has a voltage display so I can observe the cars voltage when I am on the highway. At full tilt I fluctuate 13.9-14.4 or so depeding if the AC/lights are on and how much bass the song I am listinging to has...

Can you recommend any good brands of aftermarket alts? How much power should I aim for?

Any good under the hood kits avaliable?

Sorry for the questions.

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

if you wanna run your system completely clean and cool get a 270 amp ho alt with two extra batteries in the back with 1/0 ofc wire. if you just wanna play your music and dont mind a little bit of excessive heat, then just upgrade to ofc and put one extra battery in the back. what is your alternators amperage?

 

[double 07 10+ year member]

West...Do not fear your electrical....we are lucky enough to live really close to 2 businesses that you might get to know pretty well....XS Power and Mechman....lol

 

[West]

West...Do not fear your electrical....we are lucky enough to live really close to 2 businesses that you might get to know pretty well....XS Power and Mechman....lol

Lol, well I cant get enough of that clean A/B power...

Thermo dynamics is going to get the best of me again!

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Thanks!
I have a DMM and the P99RS has a voltage display so I can observe the cars voltage when I am on the highway. At full tilt I fluctuate 13.9-14.4 or so depeding if the AC/lights are on and how much bass the song I am listinging to has...

Can you recommend any good brands of aftermarket alts? How much power should I aim for?

Any good under the hood kits avaliable?

Sorry for the questions.

Nice HU! I would still recommend getting a voltage meter though. That way you can run the wires to your amp inputs and know what's going on back there. Your voltages might be a bit different, possibly lower. I have an 80PRS, and my voltages are usually pretty similar, but differ slightly sometimes. A volt meter has been the single most important purchase for me in terms of piece of mind. The Stinger SVMR (I think? The rectangular ones. DO NOT buy the round ones. The rectangular ones have an update cycle of like .5 seconds,while the round ones have a cycle of what appears to be .0000005 seconds. It's impossible to see that thing, except for your first 2 numbers) is the one I have, and it's great to have.

That much drop isn't too bad. Did you say you have in there now? Maybe I missed it.

I have a DC Power Inc. 270XP, and it's built very well, and is really strong. DC Power is a bit more expensive, but IMO is worth it. There is also Mechman (a vendor on here), Ohio Generator, and a couple other I can't think of now. Do a search on here for some opinions. How much power you go for is up to you, and will depend on how many extra batteries you plan on running and your budget. Me, I don't want the additional weight of batteries if I don't need them, so I went bigger than I thought I would need. Basically, I would suggest getting the biggest that you can afford. Email the different companies and discuss what they would suggest.

What did you mean by under-hood kits? Big 3 or batteries? All of the above?

 

[double 07 10+ year member]

Ha!!! Ha!!!!........I think my box has turned WEST into a bass head!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.......I love it.....

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Well assuming minimum efficient and pushing all your amps to the max... you'd need new wire. BUT, since you're NOT running those JLs at max, I'd estimate a total of 220a current draw at full tilt, which should be just fine. The only problem I see is that the JLs are total current hogs... but if you have them set for 750w, you should be ok. (Remember when I was telling you Mmats efficiency is awesome? I run my 2k.1 on my stock alt and bat with 4 gauge )As for batteries, you're definitely going to need a stout battery under the hood, and likely another in the rear for support.

HO alt? Maybe.... you won't know until you get everything in. Worst case scenario, you need one and you turn the gain down. Best case scenario, you don't need one and you save several hundred dollars. What's your stock alt size?

P.S., you stink Stankybitch

You seeing rated power with no clipping on those amps like that? If so, I definitely need to take a look at those. I have heard Arc Audio's are d@mn near that efficient too, but I have seen more reports than I would like to see about those failing.

 

[West]

Nice HU! I would still recommend getting a voltage meter though. That way you can run the wires to your amp inputs and know what's going on back there. Your voltages might be a bit different, possibly lower. I have an 80PRS, and my voltages are usually pretty similar, but differ slightly sometimes. A volt meter has been the single most important purchase for me in terms of piece of mind. The Stinger SVMR (I think? The rectangular ones. DO NOT buy the round ones. The rectangular ones have an update cycle of like .5 seconds,while the round ones have a cycle of what appears to be .0000005 seconds. It's impossible to see that thing, except for your first 2 numbers) is the one I have, and it's great to have.

That much drop isn't too bad. Did you say you have in there now? Maybe I missed it.

I have a DC Power Inc. 270XP, and it's built very well, and is really strong. DC Power is a bit more expensive, but IMO is worth it. There is also Mechman (a vendor on here), Ohio Generator, and a couple other I can't think of now. Do a search on here for some opinions. How much power you go for is up to you, and will depend on how many extra batteries you plan on running and your budget. Me, I don't want the additional weight of batteries if I don't need them, so I went bigger than I thought I would need. Basically, I would suggest getting the biggest that you can afford. Email the different companies and discuss what they would suggest.

What did you mean by under-hood kits? Big 3 or batteries? All of the above?

Thanks man, that 80prs is feature packed... the p99rs doesn't even have bluetooth...

Right now I have a Mcintosh MCC404m (100w x 4) and a MCC302 (600w x 1 @ 4 ohm).

I was curious if companies were offering the whole package batt, alt... all of the above yes.

I will pick up some meters for the rear of the vehicle as well, thanks for the tip!

 

[West]

Ha!!! Ha!!!!........I think my box has turned WEST into a bass head!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.......I love it.....

Porting has opened up a new world of SQL...

Need the gear to make it shine even brighter.

FYI I am trying to talk my friend into a SMS octoport box.

 

[double 07 10+ year member]

Porting has opened up a new world of SQL... Need the gear to make it shine even brighter.

FYI I am trying to talk my friend into a SMS octoport box.

Bring it on!!!!!!..............