electrical idea...

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

Better question. Why you wanna do this. Do you compete. Are you going for any world records. How many shows do you hit up during the year... Seem like a waste of money and time just to go higher in voltage.

Well, as of right now i don't do any shows but i would like to hit up a few a year atleast. adn the reason for wanting more power... THAT is a dumb question, why would you NOT want more power if it is going to cost about the same as if you where to stick with less power....

MechMan is where i am getting my alt. that is about $550 with an ext. regulator. So now i can either run it at 12V and spend a bunch of money on 4+ 12v batteries or spend a couple hundred less on 2 16V batteries and have more power... The sub is an APX18 and amp is an XXX-6500D which will be running at 1.5ohm....

I can get the alt/reg and 2 of the D1000's for under $1K so the whole or i could get the same alt/reg, run it at 12V and buy a few Kinetiks for $800~ and have more money into a setup with less power in the end. Plus, IIRC an amp actualy has less current draw at higher voltages....

 

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

I mean seriously when given the option and spending the same amount of money or less in this case why would anyone NOT go with the higher powered setup?

Kinetik would recommend 2) HC2400's cheapest i can find those is $258.99 plus S/H

I can get a D1000 for $249 SHIPPED (so that would end up being close to $100 less after shipping the Kinetiks)

The alt is going to be the same either way so why not go with more power?

I am going to fallow the advice of Mechman as i assume he knows what he is talking about (not saying others dont but...)

 

[audioatg 10+ year member]

Lol. Wish ya the best of luck. Dont forget add that step down voltage box to that price too.

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

We have a bunch of used D1000's out of my truck for cheap if you want to save even more money. They look like brand new and test out perfectly.

It makes sense to run 16V, with the exception of the stepdown box, (which is only $90) Everything else is the same cost as 12V.

You can also add "less voltage loss through cabling and connections" to your list of advantages.

250 amps x 14.5V = 3625 watts

250 amps x 18.5V = 4625 watts

You're getting an entire extra killowatt of power FOR FREE.

 

[audioatg 10+ year member]

We have a bunch of used D1000's out of my truck for cheap if you want to save even more money. They look like brand new and test out perfectly.

It makes sense to run 16V, with the exception of the stepdown box, (which is only $90) Everything else is the same cost as 12V.

You can also add "less voltage loss through cabling and connections" to your list of advantages.

250 amps x 14.5V = 3625 watts

250 amps x 18.5V = 4625 watts

You're getting an entire extra killowatt of power FOR FREE.

Depends on who you are.... Are you a budget system guy. Or do you have loads of money to spend on alts and 16volt batts..... I could do a 12volt setup for say 400 bucks. 400 cheaper than what his lowest price was...

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

The stepdowns are only rated at 50a max 25a continuis draw.So you may need a second.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

what happens if/when a diode goes out in the step down? 18v makes it through the entire car? i would run dedicated 18v (2 alts 1 18v and 1 14v). if you only run one step down couldn't you blow fuses running too many accessories in the vehicle?

 

[audioatg 10+ year member]

what happens if/when a diode goes out in the step down? 18v makes it through the entire car? i would run dedicated 18v (2 alts 1 18v and 1 14v). if you only run one step down couldn't you blow fuses running too many accessories in the vehicle?

Good point

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

what happens if/when a diode goes out in the step down? 18v makes it through the entire car? i would run dedicated 18v (2 alts 1 18v and 1 14v). if you only run one step down couldn't you blow fuses running too many accessories in the vehicle?

Actually, if the diode fails the circuit goes open and you have no voltage. Definitely not the end of the world.

FWIW, out of the two dozen or so 993's that I've installed, I've yet to have one failure.

I've only ever installed (2) Three post batteries, (one kinetic, and one V-battery) Both swelled almost to the point of explosion within one day of use on a 16V charging system. I think I'll stick with the 993s.....

 

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

I could do a 12volt setup for say 400 bucks.

Yeah... and that would probably be good enough for the 3002 i use for my mids... You would be luckyto get a GOOD alt. for that price. I am curious, what is this "setup" you speak of...? seriously, that would be enough to get a SINGLE kinetik (with some left over of course)

You did read the amp is an XXX-6500D right? running at 1.5ohm

 

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

We have a bunch of used D1000's out of my truck for cheap if you want to save even more money. They look like brand new and test out perfectly.

i have a feelin your "cheap" is probably not quite the same as mine but... Keeping in mind i am getting everything to do this from you, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif wanna PM me a price for 3 of those D1000's...?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Actually, if the diode fails the circuit goes open and you have no voltage. Definitely not the end of the world.
FWIW, out of the two dozen or so 993's that I've installed, I've yet to have one failure.

I've only ever installed (2) Three post batteries, (one kinetic, and one V-battery) Both swelled almost to the point of explosion within one day of use on a 16V charging system. I think I'll stick with the 993s.....

odd only places i hear this from are reps and dealers of a certain brand. thing i hear with batteries is "you get what you pay for" but then with alts some are cheaper than others then all of the sudden that anology gets tossed aside to meet a purpose. one would also think that there would be plenty of kinetik 16v

batteries in existance being used where you would hear this from actual customers and users and not a retailer selling against said product.... oh well

fuses blow you are dead in the water, diodes blow you are dead in the water battery goes you are dead in the water:laugh:

 

[audioatg 10+ year member]

Yeah... and that would probably be good enough for the 3002 i use for my mids... You would be luckyto get a GOOD alt. for that price. I am curious, what is this "setup" you speak of...? seriously, that would be enough to get a SINGLE kinetik (with some left over of course)
You did read the amp is an XXX-6500D right? running at 1.5ohm

I was talking about everyone not just you kid. I have a 16volt setup now and Didnt come close to spending over 600 for it. And I was running a HK4000D just about the same as the xxx there you got. Takes over 16volts to get them going. Id say your right about the 3002 for your mids. If it was pulling over 400 amps all the time but Im sure it dosent come close to 200amps of draw.....

Like I said befow good luck with your install.

 

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

Well, i am not completely dismissing anything as of right now, it is all still open for discussion and i would like to hear opinions backed by facts. Only thing i know rightnow is that an amp pulls less current at higher voltages and makes more power as well. I also know that i would need a H.O. alt and atleast 2 HC2400's along with my big 3 and upgraded front battery to keep this thing running safe at 1.5ohm daily. I ALSO know that for pretty much the same price as the alt/batteries for the 12V i can go 16V...

I would like to knowthe details of the system you are running and/or was running for your HK4000D... If you even got a HO alt without "coming close to $600" i would love to know where.

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

I undersand the sceptiscism, but I havn't always been a Powermaster dealer you know....

I challenge anyone to run a daily driven vehicle with ANY 3 post lead acid battery and a 16V charging system of 150 amps or more, and watch what happens to that 3 post battery. This is not brand-quality discussion, it is a discussion of physics. The extra cell 3 post design simply cannot work in this type of system.

P.S., even when a 3 post is used "properly" the voltage across the 12 V posts is only 12.5 volts when the input charge voltage to the 16 V posts is 18.0V. (which means everything running off the 12V post is lazy as hell) Once again, I'm not bashing a brand or product, this is simply from personal expierience, and I can gaurantee that the exact same thing will happen in any other vehicle set up the same way.