Electrical a bit overated, no big 3

what is a good, cheap, and easy way to test your votage???? is there something you could have in your car to see a constant reading??? I like this thread because it gives me confidence to run more watts than I thought I could on just an upgraded Kinetik 1800 and BIG 3. Whether thats a good or bad thing who cares, hehe!

eddie

 
I had a dimming problem BEFORE I installed my sound system. After doing the Big3, it's gone. Most cars do gain some electrical performance from a Big3 upgrade, especially if you plan on taxing the electrical system with a powerfull sound system.

I'm only running about 800 watts total, but I knew my stock system couldn't handle it. It was already 'iffy. Big 3 and new batteries made big difference.

It's very difficult to calculate your reserve capacity. Once your seeing voltage dips and serious dimming, you are already into a danger area.

Not everyone needs to upgrade their charging system, but most do. Most cars don't have much reserve capacity, and most people want to use large sound systems that go way beyond what the car is designed to handle.

Given how many people we know who are left with dead cars due to electrical failure after installing their sound systems, a Big3 upgrade is cheap insurance and usually does give improved performance and reliablity.

The battery craze right now is a little overblown as well. To many people it's the new "capacitor". I have 2 batteries and an isolator because I need to use my system with the engine off for extended periods of time. Not for bumping in parking lots with the baggy pants crowd.

 
I had a dimming problem BEFORE I installed my sound system. After doing the Big3, it's gone. Most cars do gain some electrical performance from a Big3 upgrade, especially if you plan on taxing the electrical system with a powerfull sound system.I'm only running about 800 watts total, but I knew my stock system couldn't handle it. It was already 'iffy. Big 3 and new batteries made big difference.

It's very difficult to calculate your reserve capacity. Once your seeing voltage dips and serious dimming, you are already into a danger area.

Not everyone needs to upgrade their charging system, but most do. Most cars don't have much reserve capacity, and most people want to use large sound systems that go way beyond what the car is designed to handle.

Given how many people we know who are left with dead cars due to electrical failure after installing their sound systems, a Big3 upgrade is cheap insurance and usually does give improved performance and reliablity.

The battery craze right now is a little overblown as well. To many people it's the new "capacitor". I have 2 batteries and an isolator because I need to use my system with the engine off for extended periods of time. Not for bumping in parking lots with the baggy pants crowd.

Yes this is true, i owned a 86 chevy van and i added a new hu in it and a tv, and vcr, lol after i turned up the radio so much the how h/u would go out because of the low voltage. i think the alternator was probably only a 30amp. the newer cars (probably 2000-newer) have alot of breathing room. I have put subs in a 2000 neon, no dimming and a 2001 ford taurus also that had no dimming.

 
the12voltsux... im not an expert in cars... i have just been in school for 3 years for automtive but shouldnt ur car have a voltage regulater that doesnt "boost" your voltage when :revving" your car or getting more rmps it should stay constant wether you are at 750 rpms or at 9800 rpms ... that is if you ahve that regulator because most new cars now of days have them and i know the cars that we practice on at school ( 02 toyota tundra, 04 ford explorer and mustang, 05 checy 2500,) and others all have had the voltage regulators on them and u can hit the rev limiters with them and the voltage wont go up it just stays steady

 
the12voltsux... im not an expert in cars... i have just been in school for 3 years for automtive but shouldnt ur car have a voltage regulater that doesnt "boost" your voltage when :revving" your car or getting more rmps it should stay constant wether you are at 750 rpms or at 9800 rpms ... that is if you ahve that regulator because most new cars now of days have them and i know the cars that we practice on at school ( 02 toyota tundra, 04 ford explorer and mustang, 05 checy 2500,) and others all have had the voltage regulators on them and u can hit the rev limiters with them and the voltage wont go up it just stays steady
the voltage will stay the same as long as the alternator can maintain enough amperage for the demand.

when the engine speed goes up, the alternator will be able to produce more amperage as it will also be spinning faster.

I have NEVER been to school for anything mechanic related:fyi:

 
the voltage will stay the same as long as the alternator can maintain enough amperage for the demand.
when the engine speed goes up, the alternator will be able to produce more amperage as it will also be spinning faster.

I have NEVER been to school for anything mechanic related:fyi:
x2

 
the voltage will stay the same as long as the alternator can maintain enough amperage for the demand.
when the engine speed goes up, the alternator will be able to produce more amperage as it will also be spinning faster.

I have NEVER been to school for anything mechanic related:fyi:
The voltage will dip with every bass note in a big system regardless of how big the alternator is. It just can't react fast enough to maintain the voltage. That's what batteries are for.

 
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