Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC

[HardofWhoring]

That HU you picked has 2 preouts, which you already have planned for three. My last two have been Kenwood Excelons.

eXcelon | Car Entertainment | KENWOOD USA

Welcome to KENWOOD USA Site. In pursuit of further value creation by integrality our three core business segments and establish [ mobile & home multimedia system ] business

www.kenwood.com

They all have (3) 5v preouts, and carplay, (not sure if they are all or just some are wireless, but that is almost standard on most mid level head units on up).

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Whaaaaaa??? Don't do that.

That's a lot of wire, and that would be several hundred dollars, probably over $500.

Here is the seller I have used several times and been happy with the wire.

Security Measure

www.ebay.com

You can get shielded welding wire, or not. Everyone likes red and black, but for my long amp wire, I used green, because under the hood I know which one it is easier, (and so should anyone else).

If you measure it you can buy it by the foot for one long piece and not have a bunch of extra that's just wasted. (although for a long run, I would plan for a few extra feet).

I found a company on ebay selling welder wire and then found their website and plan on buying directly to avoid ebay fees (it's significantly cheaper on their website).

I want to make sure I have enough in case I need to double up on the runs for battery to battery, the big 3, and wiring both amps. I think that my battery to battery run will be 10-16 feet, so running positive and negative lines it will be 20-32 feet, and then if I double the run it will be 40-64 feet in just the battery to battery run.

TEMCo WC0466 Welding Cable - 2/0 AWG 80 ft. (40 ft. Red 40 ft. Black)

temcoindustrial.com

 

[HardofWhoring]

I found a company on ebay selling welder wire and then found their website and plan on buying directly to avoid ebay fees (it's significantly cheaper on their website).

I want to make sure I have enough in case I need to double up on the runs for battery to battery, the big 3, and wiring both amps. I think that my battery to battery run will be 10-16 feet, so running positive and negative lines it will be 20-32 feet, and then if I double the run it will be 40-64 feet in just the battery to battery run.

TEMCo WC0466 Welding Cable - 2/0 AWG 80 ft. (40 ft. Red 40 ft. Black)

temcoindustrial.com

You do you, but price out the total for that compared to what I put. That link is for 40ft of red and 40ft of black. Your ground is two batteries to ground, and your amps to ground. You might use half of that 40ft. Then what about the other 20-40ft of red you need? It might be cheaper, and I didn't look, but I hope they have other options.


FORGOT ABOUT THE BIG 3. NEVERMIND, THATS PROBABLY WHAT YOU NEED PLUS A BIT MORE RED.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

First, thank everyone for all the help. I am a part of a lot of forums, be it college football, bodybuilding, and salt water fishing, and I rarely have as welcoming and warm of a greeting than you all have shown me.

That being said, I have update my initial post with the new build plan.

Thats what this Forum is supposed to be all about man. Trying to help others out.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I had a pitman arm on a drag link that wouldn't come off with a fork or a torch. Ended up screwing up the threads and couldn't but the nut back onto it.

Ended up driving to the mechanic with my steering held together by zip ties and my steering wheel 90 degrees off center which causes my ABS to engage every other minute lol.

The mechanic was like, "who tf installed this for you...." and I said "that's besides the point... please just fix it so I can get my life back together."

Dayuuum!!! Who says Zip Ties dont serve justice?/ LOL

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

That HU you picked has 2 preouts, which you already have planned for three. My last two have been Kenwood Excelons.

eXcelon | Car Entertainment | KENWOOD USA

Welcome to KENWOOD USA Site. In pursuit of further value creation by integrality our three core business segments and establish [ mobile & home multimedia system ] business

www.kenwood.com

They all have (3) 5v preouts, and carplay, (not sure if they are all or just some are wireless, but that is almost standard on most mid level head units on up).

Kenwood /JVC HUs are some of my favorite units today. Sony is trying to make a comeback. Ive been looking at some of theyre units that have a 3 yr warranty. A little pricey atm for me. But nice. Hard to beat a Kenwood/JVC unit to be honest thats on the market now

Sony XAV-AX8100

Digital multimedia receiver

www.crutchfield.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Okay. I'll take the advice and purchase a better HU.

I initially was just going to add a small 10 inch sub, so that's why I initially went with that HU that had all the fun button and apps so my gf could be entertained. However, I am now all in on this audio system and should focus more on the audio quality.

Any recommendations on head units? I would like one that would have wireless carplay at the minimum.

A decent 10" sub like the American Bass XFL will get down pretty good for the money in a well tuned enclosure with a 1500 watt rms-2k mono amp

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

Whaaaaaa??? Don't do that.

That's a lot of wire, and that would be several hundred dollars, probably over $500.

Here is the seller I have used several times and been happy with the wire.

Security Measure

www.ebay.com

You can get shielded welding wire, or not. Everyone likes red and black, but for my long amp wire, I used green, because under the hood I know which one it is easier, (and so should anyone else).

If you measure it you can buy it by the foot for one long piece and not have a bunch of extra that's just wasted. (although for a long run, I would plan for a few extra feet).

I got the green 2/0 welding wire from them too, Best wire I have purchased.. I like it better than Knu or skyhigh myself.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I got the green 2/0 welding wire from them too, Best wire I have purchased.. I like it better than Knu or skyhigh myself.

Really?? I may have to get some and try it out

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

Really?? I may have to get some and try it out

Good stuff for sure, They got a few colors Red, black, green, blue, yellow.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

By the way.. What year model is that Jeep? You doing a 2 seater only ride with a pair of 15s in it? No back seats? A pair of 15s need some space

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I know it has been rehashed over and over, but I am still having trouble deciding the best way to wire my new HO Alt with the rest of my planned system. I would greatly appreciate the experts to give this amateur some assistance.

Build for Jeep Wrangler Unlimited:
BNR Parts 350 Amp Alternator (Purchased) Yes... I know their reputation, but only the small shops have 300+ amp alts for the 3.8L jeeps.

Dual Skar VXF-15 D4 (Purchased) wired to 4 ohm at 3,000W RMS
Deaf Bounce Apocalypse AAB-7900.1D (Purchased) 4 ohm RMS 3000W

Alpine PDX-F6 (Planning)
JL Audio C2-650 Component Speakers (Planning) 125W RMS Each in Knee Panel
Hertz MPX 165.3 Pro (Planning) 100W RMS Each in Roll Bar

XS Power 3100D (Planning) 12V BCI Group 31 AGM Battery, Max Amps 5,000A, CA: 1565, Ah: 127, 4000W / 5000W+

Wiring - Plan on using 2/0 welding wire

I am calculating the following... 214 amps (3,000W / 14v) from the subwoofer and 17 amps (60W x 4 speakers / 14v) to get to 231 amp. I wanted some extra headroom because I also have some light bars on my Jeep and to account for inefficiency.

My Questions:
What size wire should I use for the Big 3? In my head, I like two runs so that I can put 300amp fuses on the lines. If I run one line, I would have to run a fuse higher than the amps output and I heard running too high of fuses becomes less effective in managing heat/fires... or am I mistaken?

What size wire should I use for the line from the main battery under the hood to the rear batter? Again, I'm thinking of two lines so I can put 300amp fuses on them?

What size secondary battery should I use? I see people suggesting just adding up the RMS. So I'm thinking between the XS Power D4900, D6500, OR D3400R?

Edit: Updated after changing calculations from 2ohm to 4ohm
Edit2: Updated new build

That Amp is way overkill for those subs. a decent 3500 rms amp will be plenty enough!! That amp you chose is what I would run on 4- 1k-1500 rms 12s or 15s
This will slamm those subs pretty nicely. Id be worried about the roof rippling if you are not doing any roof treatment? Even with this amp id be concerned. On a pair of 12s even. Always look at RMS when purchasing speakers and subs/ not Max or Maxed

CT-3200.1D // 3200 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-3200.1D is a compact 3200-watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable monoblock amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You could even look at a Taramps 3k 1 ohm amp for the $

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

By the way.. What year model is that Jeep? You doing a 2 seater only ride with a pair of 15s in it? No back seats? A pair of 15s need some space

4 dr and having a custom box made for them

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

That Amp is way overkill for those subs. a decent 3500 rms amp will be plenty enough!! That amp you chose is what I would run on 4- 1k-1500 rms 12s or 15s
This will slamm those subs pretty nicely. Id be worried about the roof rippling if you are not doing any roof treatment? Even with this amp id be concerned. On a pair of 12s even. Always look at RMS when purchasing speakers and subs/ not Max or Maxed

CT-3200.1D // 3200 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-3200.1D is a compact 3200-watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable monoblock amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

Yeah but my subs are wired in 4ohm so to push 3,000w rms (1,500w each) wouldn’t I need this sub that I got which is rated for 3,000 watts at 4 ohm?