Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC

[HardofWhoring]

What about this HU? I’ll be honest, I only want it because I like how you can play YouTube videos and Netflix off it.

ATOTO S8 Premium 10 inch Double-DIN Car Stereo, Android Car in-Dash Navigation, Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto, 2BT w/aptX HD, QLED Display, USB Tethering, HD VSV Parking with LRV, 3G+32G, S8G2114PM Amazon product ASIN B08HQS15VG

Id have to look up more specs on the HU as Amazon doesnt give the Voltage RCA out or how many that I could see. It may be a nice HU? Im about simplicity

2v preouts, and am I reading that right; the head unit puts out 29w with 10% THD

• DSP / Pre-Amplifier: Built-in Digital Signal Processor allows you to set precise equalization, signal delay, bass boost, and bass filter. Preset 9 EQ Modes, and 32 adjustable frequency bands (16 bands for front and 16 for rear). Built-in Max 4*49W BTL Amplifier with RMS 4*29W (Vcc=14.4v, THD=10%);

Please don't buy that head unit. You went decent on the amps, pretty good on the speakers, and that's a cheap ass head unit. I get it has a lot features, and nav, but it's the jack of all trade, and master of none kind of deal. KEEP in mind, you can always just get navigation on your phone, and connect your phone directly to the head unit, and use the head unit as a display. You can buy a really nice head unit for that price or less that doesn't have navigation itself, but still does navigation through your phone.


I'm using that same amp on my 2 sets of JL ZR components. We have a very similar setup so I know it will work good, but you might find a deal on here that changes your mind.

Sale

WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Superstore, the Largest Selection at the Lowest Prices!

www.woofersetc.com

The only thing I don't like is the 10ft run between batts.
First that seems like a pretty short length from the engine bay to the trunk. It won't be a straight line, and there could be several extra feet or more to move around objects and fit through holes, just to get to the back to the front. Then if you are mounting on the other side of the vehicle. Not sure how you measured it, but you could run a long extension cord or string, and verify that length.
Second: NOW I DON'T KNOW: but I THINK that 1/0 is going to be undersized for a 10ft run, and you might be even longer. I THINK that even a 2/0 run might be undersized. You could use a 1/0 for the big 3, but I think I would either run dual 1/0 or single 4/0 between batts. Or even 2/0 on the big 3. Dual 2/0 between batts, and separate 2/0 from second batt to each amp. You can go as big as you want with the wire, it just costs a little more, and takes up a little more space. For that you get less resistance, and a safer setup. I've never done a setup with that much power. Searching for numbers there is a huge variance, and I don't know how to put the equations into real world scenarios. Maybe someone that has done a larger setup like this knows how to figure it out.

 

[HardofWhoring]

What I mean by length, I have a regular cab pickup. I go from the battery to the back of the cab, (even on the same drivers side), and I needed 14ft to go from battery to first my distribution block that is near the middle of my amps, but still closer to the batt. 10ft from underhood battery to trunk battery seems INCREDIBLY SHORT. You would literally need something like a miata be to that short of length, and I still don't think it would work.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Also that Atoto head unit: Keep in mind, that head units can cause distortion. Even a quality head unit can cause distortion when all the way up. When I see that THD rating on those channels, I see low quality, and expect distortion. This may get to 20 out of 25 on the head unit, and start causing noticeable distortion.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

2v preouts, and am I reading that right; the head unit puts out 29w with 10% THD

• DSP / Pre-Amplifier: Built-in Digital Signal Processor allows you to set precise equalization, signal delay, bass boost, and bass filter. Preset 9 EQ Modes, and 32 adjustable frequency bands (16 bands for front and 16 for rear). Built-in Max 4*49W BTL Amplifier with RMS 4*29W (Vcc=14.4v, THD=10%);

Please don't buy that head unit. You went decent on the amps, pretty good on the speakers, and that's a cheap ass head unit. I get it has a lot features, and nav, but it's the jack of all trade, and master of none kind of deal. KEEP in mind, you can always just get navigation on your phone, and connect your phone directly to the head unit, and use the head unit as a display. You can buy a really nice head unit for that price or less that doesn't have navigation itself, but still does navigation through your phone.


I'm using that same amp on my 2 sets of JL ZR components. We have a very similar setup so I know it will work good, but you might find a deal on here that changes your mind.

Sale

WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Superstore, the Largest Selection at the Lowest Prices!

www.woofersetc.com

The only thing I don't like is the 10ft run between batts.
First that seems like a pretty short length from the engine bay to the trunk. It won't be a straight line, and there could be several extra feet or more to move around objects and fit through holes, just to get to the back to the front. Then if you are mounting on the other side of the vehicle. Not sure how you measured it, but you could run a long extension cord or string, and verify that length.
Second: NOW I DON'T KNOW: but I THINK that 1/0 is going to be undersized for a 10ft run, and you might be even longer. I THINK that even a 2/0 run might be undersized. You could use a 1/0 for the big 3, but I think I would either run dual 1/0 or single 4/0 between batts. Or even 2/0 on the big 3. Dual 2/0 between batts, and separate 2/0 from second batt to each amp. You can go as big as you want with the wire, it just costs a little more, and takes up a little more space. For that you get less resistance, and a safer setup. I've never done a setup with that much power. Searching for numbers there is a huge variance, and I don't know how to put the equations into real world scenarios. Maybe someone that has done a larger setup like this knows how to figure it out.

Yes. 2v HU.. I dont know anything about that HU as Ive never installed one or had any hands on with that brand. Who even knows the Longevity of the brand or even the issues with it thus far? I like simplicity as stated and I always vouch for a 4v+hu. Everyone wants Features with all the newest technology these days. Some create more issues to be honest.He can always add an external Xover later on to beef up the voltage pretty inexpensively as well. Ive ran 8k on sub duty and 200x4 and 75x4 with two runs of 0ga and 4 batts total without any issues. I dont think he will ever see the real world on 5k from his sub amp on the Subs chosen to be honest. I think he will be fine with the HO alt of 270-300 and two good AGM batts and the Big3. If so, simply add another AGM at the rear should suffice. Thats from my prospective, and messing with a few High powered systems Ive had. But.. If he likes the HU, then go for it. Id prefer differently, but its not my system. I can only recommend. Great input from you

 

[HardofWhoring]

Great input from you

Then give me a thumbs up, you mother fudge lover.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Then give me a thumbs up, you mother fudge lover.

Will do.. LOL

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

First, thank everyone for all the help. I am a part of a lot of forums, be it college football, bodybuilding, and salt water fishing, and I rarely have as welcoming and warm of a greeting than you all have shown me.

That being said, I have update my initial post with the new build plan.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yes. 2v HU.. I dont know anything about that HU as Ive never installed one or had any hands on with that brand. Who even knows the Longevity of the brand or even the issues with it thus far? I like simplicity as stated and I always vouch for a 4v+hu. Everyone wants Features with all the newest technology these days. Some create more issues to be honest.He can always add an external Xover later on to beef up the voltage pretty inexpensively as well. Ive ran 8k on sub duty and 200x4 and 75x4 with two runs of 0ga and 4 batts total without any issues. I dont think he will ever see the real world on 5k from his sub amp on the Subs chosen to be honest. I think he will be fine with the HO alt of 270-300 and two good AGM batts and the Big3. If so, simply add another AGM at the rear should suffice. Thats from my prospective, and messing with a few High powered systems Ive had. But.. If he likes the HU, then go for it. Id prefer differently, but its not my system. I can only recommend. Great input from you

I forgot to add that this was on a 300 amp alt as well. I am currently running a 255 amp alt and will be placing a 370 GP Audio alt I have sitting on my next build out with another run of 1/0 rather than pulling all my wiring back out. I think a 270-300 amp alt will do fine for the system in this vehicle for the Op

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Are you installing this system yourself? Or help with someone? If so, you can save quite a bit of funds doing it yourelf, and will know where every wire is and goes too.

I plan on installing it all myself. Unless it goes how my suspension work did on my Jeep. Which was me doing it 80% and getting stuck and then calling in for professional help.

 

[HardofWhoring]

First, thank everyone for all the help. I am a part of a lot of forums, be it college football, bodybuilding, and salt water fishing, and I rarely have as welcoming and warm of a greeting than you all have shown me.

That being said, I have update my initial post with the new build plan.

For all the other new people that won't search to read this. It's clear when someone is wanting to learn how to fish , and is making an effort, vs wanting to be handed one or told what to buy.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

2v preouts, and am I reading that right; the head unit puts out 29w with 10% THD

• DSP / Pre-Amplifier: Built-in Digital Signal Processor allows you to set precise equalization, signal delay, bass boost, and bass filter. Preset 9 EQ Modes, and 32 adjustable frequency bands (16 bands for front and 16 for rear). Built-in Max 4*49W BTL Amplifier with RMS 4*29W (Vcc=14.4v, THD=10%);

Please don't buy that head unit. You went decent on the amps, pretty good on the speakers, and that's a cheap ass head unit. I get it has a lot features, and nav, but it's the jack of all trade, and master of none kind of deal. KEEP in mind, you can always just get navigation on your phone, and connect your phone directly to the head unit, and use the head unit as a display. You can buy a really nice head unit for that price or less that doesn't have navigation itself, but still does navigation through your phone.


I'm using that same amp on my 2 sets of JL ZR components. We have a very similar setup so I know it will work good, but you might find a deal on here that changes your mind.

Sale

WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Superstore, the Largest Selection at the Lowest Prices!

www.woofersetc.com

The only thing I don't like is the 10ft run between batts.
First that seems like a pretty short length from the engine bay to the trunk. It won't be a straight line, and there could be several extra feet or more to move around objects and fit through holes, just to get to the back to the front. Then if you are mounting on the other side of the vehicle. Not sure how you measured it, but you could run a long extension cord or string, and verify that length.
Second: NOW I DON'T KNOW: but I THINK that 1/0 is going to be undersized for a 10ft run, and you might be even longer. I THINK that even a 2/0 run might be undersized. You could use a 1/0 for the big 3, but I think I would either run dual 1/0 or single 4/0 between batts. Or even 2/0 on the big 3. Dual 2/0 between batts, and separate 2/0 from second batt to each amp. You can go as big as you want with the wire, it just costs a little more, and takes up a little more space. For that you get less resistance, and a safer setup. I've never done a setup with that much power. Searching for numbers there is a huge variance, and I don't know how to put the equations into real world scenarios. Maybe someone that has done a larger setup like this knows how to figure it out.

Okay. I'll take the advice and purchase a better HU.

I initially was just going to add a small 10 inch sub, so that's why I initially went with that HU that had all the fun button and apps so my gf could be entertained. However, I am now all in on this audio system and should focus more on the audio quality.

Any recommendations on head units? I would like one that would have wireless carplay at the minimum.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

What I mean by length, I have a regular cab pickup. I go from the battery to the back of the cab, (even on the same drivers side), and I needed 14ft to go from battery to first my distribution block that is near the middle of my amps, but still closer to the batt. 10ft from underhood battery to trunk battery seems INCREDIBLY SHORT. You would literally need something like a miata be to that short of length, and I still don't think it would work.

Yeah I just estimated on the length. I am going to buy 100ft of welding wire 2/0 in case I have to run double runs and just to make sure I don't have to place another order.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I plan on installing it all myself. Unless it goes how my suspension work did on my Jeep. Which was me doing it 80% and getting stuck and then calling in for professional help.

Very good man. Ya.,. Ive had some issues with compressing some struts that kicked my azz, throwing a tool tantrum. LOL. Come to find out they were not the correct ones after looking up the part # thanks to an Advanced Auto Parts store. never went back to those jokers. Got a refund and went elsewhere. My fault for not double checking though.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Yeah I just estimated on the length. I am going to buy 100ft of welding wire 2/0 in case I have to run double runs and just to make sure I don't have to place another order.

Whaaaaaa??? Don't do that.

That's a lot of wire, and that would be several hundred dollars, probably over $500.

Here is the seller I have used several times and been happy with the wire.

Security Measure

www.ebay.com

You can get shielded welding wire, or not. Everyone likes red and black, but for my long amp wire, I used green, because under the hood I know which one it is easier, (and so should anyone else).

If you measure it you can buy it by the foot for one long piece and not have a bunch of extra that's just wasted. (although for a long run, I would plan for a few extra feet).

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Very good man. Ya.,. Ive had some issues with compressing some struts that kicked my azz, throwing a tool tantrum. LOL. Come to find out they were not the correct ones after looking up the part # thanks to an Advanced Auto Parts store. never went back to those jokers. Got a refund and went elsewhere. My fault for not double checking though.

I had a pitman arm on a drag link that wouldn't come off with a fork or a torch. Ended up screwing up the threads and couldn't but the nut back onto it.

Ended up driving to the mechanic with my steering held together by zip ties and my steering wheel 90 degrees off center which causes my ABS to engage every other minute lol.

The mechanic was like, "who tf installed this for you...." and I said "that's besides the point... please just fix it so I can get my life back together."