Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC

[UnknowingDIYer]

Ill place my recommendations as stated. But for the most part.. Do not cheap out on the Work Horse= being the HU.
Get a good quality 4-5v 3 set of RCA Out Hu for the source. Its always nice to have expandability and spend the funds on a decent HU. I like Kendwoods and Alpines atm

What about this HU? I’ll be honest, I only want it because I like how you can play YouTube videos and Netflix off it.

ATOTO S8 Premium 10 inch Double-DIN Car Stereo, Android Car in-Dash Navigation, Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto, 2BT w/aptX HD, QLED Display, USB Tethering, HD VSV Parking with LRV, 3G+32G, S8G2114PM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HQS15VG/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Part#1
A270-300 amp alt should be just fine for 4-5k with at least two agms with 1000 CA and 800 CCA with 120 min res.( Stay away from the Optimus Red tops and Yellow Tops those are garbage batteries.) and the Big 3 done all in 1/0 OFC or Welding flex type cable copper. Use Copper Lugs and sand the coating off on them before attaching. Dontt waste money on a crimper unless you intend to use daily or monthly.A flat concrete floor with a 2lb sledge hammer works just fine then use a punch to make 3 indentions on each side with hold just fine and either Heat Shrink or use electrical tape(Your Choice). As Far as cutting the wiring? A couple snips with the end of some Fisk Gargen shears is remarkable and cuts effortlessly using the edge like snipping and not placing the entire wire in the middle to cut. Ask me as I know. LOL. The best batteries Ive used so far have been the Super Start AGM from Orileys and recently the Duralast Gold from Autozone. i like the Orileys due to being able to get the double post for my truck. the Duracell plat. are very nice as well. I recently put in 4 in my brothers van. one under the hood and 3 in a battery box for an Off grid type vehicle 34/78 batteries. No sense in spending a Shitt load of money for what you are putting in.You are deff going to need for of a front stage to keep up with the 15s @1 ohm load. Id recommend the Polk Audio MM series up front and a set of DB in the rears and the 150.4 CT Sounds amp for them. Prep the front doors while they are accessible. DO NOT PUT THE XOVERS IN THE DOORS. Many people do and they will fail sooner than placing them under the dash(Zip tie them easy enough) or under the front seats or kick panels, of which will also give you access to change the tweeter freq. if you get tired of one setting,and keeps them dry and a bit more moisture free, and from continual door slamming and possible loosing a cap or two, and a screw eventually of which now you have to remove the door panel to see WHY MY Speakers are cutting out on the right side??And what the hell is that rattling in the door?? Cont. with PART #2

Thanks for this. So don’t put the crossovers in the back of the knee panel speaker enclosure like some do on YouTube?

I guess I can just extend the wires (or run new ones) from the front speaker and tweeter to the crossover under the seat?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What about this HU? I’ll be honest, I only want it because I like how you can play YouTube videos and Netflix off it.

ATOTO S8 Premium 10 inch Double-DIN Car Stereo, Android Car in-Dash Navigation, Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto, 2BT w/aptX HD, QLED Display, USB Tethering, HD VSV Parking with LRV, 3G+32G, S8G2114PM Amazon product ASIN B08HQS15VG

Id have to look up more specs on the HU as Amazon doesnt give the Voltage RCA out or how many that I could see. It may be a nice HU? Im about simplicity

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for this. So don’t put the crossovers in the back of the knee panel speaker enclosure like some do on YouTube?

I guess I can just extend the wires (or run new ones) from the front speaker and tweeter to the crossover under the seat?

Be one set of wiring from the amp to the xover then two sets from Xover to tweet and Mid on each side.You can place the Xovers under the dash even and Ziptie them out of site on the metal bar and be secure and still have access to change the tweeter settings if you get tired of them, and they will stay cooler also as most Xover will gain heat by running the shitt out of them, They will get some air

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Id have to look up more specs on the HU as Amazon doesnt give the Voltage RCA out or how many that I could see. It may be a nice HU? Im about simplicity

I found this on the amazon description, " 4-CH RCA Audio Out (2v) for connecting to factory/aftermarket amplifier."

Does that mean I should look for a different HU because it is 2v?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I found this on the amazon description, " 4-CH RCA Audio Out (2v) for connecting to factory/aftermarket amplifier."

Does that mean I should look for a different HU because it is 2v?

LOL. I couldnt find that. No. That doesnt mean you need to look for a different HU. You are just going to have less of a cleaner signal from the HU to the amps being used.Its best to get 4v-5v.A couple of my older Eclipse HUs have 8v. At least it has two sets of RCA out that you need for two amps. More SQ oriented for a 4v+ Hu. if you dont care about SQ and more about features then buy it. Ive never used one of these Hus myself or been around one of these units yet. you can always add an external EQ Indash to boost up the RCA v or look another source later on to add when or if you decide too.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

On this site and many others. We all make recommendations, of what works and has worked for us, whats budget friendly, expensive what enclosures do well in certain vehicles, speakers, tweets amps ect. In the end, its always up to the individual to take the information provided or given and make the decision to purchase.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I found this on the amazon description, " 4-CH RCA Audio Out (2v) for connecting to factory/aftermarket amplifier."

Does that mean I should look for a different HU because it is 2v?

I didnt scroll down far enough to read . Sorry

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

What DSP would you all recommend? I'm already down the rabbit hole so might as well do it right while I'm in there.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Amazon product ASIN B000NU4YL8Rear speakers. I have and use if Im not using my CDT or infinity Kappas, same for the front
Amazon product ASIN B01EXOTD56
Front speakers
Amazon product ASIN B071G8K9SK
Amp for front and rear speakers.I have and run this amp. Works really well.

Amazon product ASIN B0971MY7T9
I use for Ground Blocks. Xcorpian is also made by Stinger that can be found also a bit cheaper

Amazon product ASIN B001F6ZCUQStinger SHD822 for amps. prob find on Ebay easily enough. I bought like 15 of them and havent needed any others for some time.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What DSP would you all recommend? I'm already down the rabbit hole so might as well do it right while I'm in there.

I dont use a DSP. To much of a hassle for me.im old school. I use an indash EQ so I have adjustments at my finger tips on the Fly rather than going in and out of the HU trying to tune. Others can recommend a decent DSP. Ive read that Dayton makes a decent budget friendly one. Ive seen that they can get expensive though and complicated too. I have T/A on an a 4v= HU and an indash 7v+EQ is all I need

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

GP Audio and Sky High have some really good 1/0 OFC Wiring I like to use . And Big 3 kits that are pretty good for the $. you can Check Knuconcepts as well.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Most speaker wiring is hidden behind the panels ,ect. I usually will buy a 100-500Ft roll of 14ga and 12ga OFC speaker wire from Amazon or GP and Sky High. Ill use 10ga OFC on sub duty for a pair of 1k subs usually if I have room on the amp, and sub terminals, ill use 8ga OFC, purchase by the FT.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I dont use a DSP. To much of a hassle for me.im old school. I use an indash EQ so I have adjustments at my finger tips on the Fly rather than going in and out of the HU trying to tune. Others can recommend a decent DSP. Ive read that Dayton makes a decent budget friendly one. Ive seen that they can get expensive though and complicated too. I have T/A on an a 4v= HU and an indash 7v+EQ is all I need

I have one of these I havent put in yet to see how it does.Looks promising, But I do use my older Kicker KQ9 eqs(3) and an Older Earthquake 7000 DXI, and a couple others I have at times. Clarion,Kenwood Alpine.

CT-7EQ // 7 Band 1/2 Din Parametric Car Audio Equalizer with AUX Input

The CT Sounds CT-7EQ is a 7 band 1/2 din parametric car audio equalizer designed to divide and enhance the segment of frequency for your car audio application. The car audio equalizer features 7 bands that divide 20Hz - 20kHz into 7 segments.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Are you installing this system yourself? Or help with someone? If so, you can save quite a bit of funds doing it yourelf, and will know where every wire is and goes too.