Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If they're dual 4ohm subs...you can wire them to 1 ohm

I think he stated he wants to run@4 ohms instead. It will be easier on his electrical too and sound pretty clean ,less work on the amp too. I honestly like to run 2 ohm mono for daily and 4 ohm stereo up front. I like the way that sounds generally, Ill still run 2 ohm stereo and 1 ohm Mono sometimes. Been a couple months that I tested out anything @4 ohms mono.That still sounds pretty nice too. Deff still shaking the walls in the Casa.LOL. Fun times and deff great neighbors.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

OP, you can usually find what the max voltage is on those remote wires (for the amp and head unit side). They are very small, and they usually max out around 500mv on the head unit. Amps are anywhere from 100-300mv (from what I've seen). Some times you can do three amps, some times you can't do two. You MIGHT be able to get the turn on voltage for all three amps, and if you can find your head units max voltage, you might be within spec. If you are not, or can't, it might fry that little switch requiring a costly repair on an expensive head unit, or making even a $100 head unit worthless. You can either piggyback as suggested, or you run a 30 amp relay from the remote wire. The relays are pretty simple, a switch in wire, a 12v circuit, a ground, and a switched circuit out. (+ & - can be connected off amp blocks). If there are things you wanted to add to your setup, like a fan or lights, you can do it this way to have em switched on with the head unit too by using a busbar or stacking connectors, instead of having em always on.



Yeah, definitely not common. Just thinking out loud, but this might only happen with the older style alts. On the older alternators, that had the internal voltage regulators. IF it went bad, It MIGHT overcharge. On the newer alts, they are externally regulated by the ECU (on some manufacturers that I know of), and the ECU, MIGHT be able to prevent that.

I think I’m getting an Audio Control DM-810. I’ve seen that you can wire your amp’s remote wire(s) to it as it turn on automatically when it gets a signal from the head unit.

Still on the fence about getting this because I’d have to take it to a ship for a tune with this.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Wow that's a lot to me for that, looks like $750. I've never bothered with a DSP. I just don't see the need for a 30 band eq. Your head unit should have time alignment. You can always use a RCA splitter for the signal. A relay is $10 for several.

For me, I'd rather spend that money on a better set of components and sound deadener. Not sure if that's done or planned.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Wow that's a lot to me for that, looks like $750. I've never bothered with a DSP. I just don't see the need for a 30 band eq. Your head unit should have time alignment. You can always use a RCA splitter for the signal. A relay is $10 for several.

For me, I'd rather spend that money on a better set of components and sound deadener. Not sure if that's done or planned.

I picked up a used one for $300 so thought might as well.

I am thinking about getting a better set of components. It’s just hard to know which ones will fit in my weird Jeep knee panel and dash tweeter mounts. Crutchfield initially said the JL’s that I’m planning wouldn’t fit, but the local audio shop said they install them in my exact Jeep all the time.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Also this is probably a dumb question, but is there a benefit to getting a 6 channel amp so that I can wire the tweeters and speakers for the front components to their individual channels and not use the passive crossover that comes with them?

Or is that even possible?

 

[HardofWhoring]

Also this is probably a dumb question, but is there a benefit to getting a 6 channel amp so that I can wire the tweeters and speakers for the front components to their individual channels and not use the passive crossover that comes with them?

Or is that even possible?

Its called BIAMPing. Some crossovers are able to do it themselves. Personally, I could only see it worth it if I was going to add an extra mid, and have lets say two mids and 1 tweet per door. If you're using that DSP, I would think it would be to drop the tweeter levels a bit at your normal listening volume.

If you plan all of that, you might be able to piece together a better set of components for you. If you don't plan on using the crossover. The tweeter size is probably what you have trouble with getting to fit. If you can verify if it's 1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2", 3", etc... then the 6.5" is going to be easy.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Ended up going with the Kenwood DMX9707S.

I wanted a 10" screen, but ended up getting a good deal on this one for $350.

 

[Boominburban]

Are js the same as singer?

No, different guys, different companies. Singer Alts are good also. I've seen more Mechman alts burn up in the lanes, than any other brand. I also know quite a few guys that swear by them. All the Alt companies have failures, it's just the nature of it.

 

[spokey9]

I've been running a J&S 320a in my saturn vue for about a 19 months now with zero problems...

 

[2023 LTZ]

I've been running a J&S 320a in my saturn vue for about a 19 months now with zero problems...

I’m at 3 yrs on my Tucson alternator.
W the electrical challenges i faced it’s been worked hard. Thankfully those challenges have been overcome.

To op, glad you’re sticking w 4 ohm.