Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

4 dr and having a custom box made for them

Ok,, What is your Box? like 5 cuft tuned to like 31-35 htz ? Or?

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Ok,, What is your Box? like 5 cuft tuned to like 31-35 htz ? Or?

Don’t know the exact measurements since I’m meeting with them this weekend to measure my back seat.

Probably 5-6cf tuned to 32hz, per our initial discussion.

I am not pushing for competition, but just want to have something better than this 2cf pro box that they currently are in

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yeah but my subs are wired in 4ohm so to push 3,000w rms (1,500w each) wouldn’t I need this sub that I got which is rated for 3,000 watts at 4 ohm?

If you have these two subs.. dvc4 ohm.. Then Id wire down to a 1 ohm load since you are going to get the electrical to supply for the demand. The pair RMS value is 3000 watts RMS. Id look at a mono amp for 3k-3500rms@1 ohm load. Should be Plenty without taking a chance of clipping or blowing a sub or two. Book mark this site. It is very helpful

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Don’t know the exact measurements since I’m meeting with them this weekend to measure my back seat.

Probably 5-6cf tuned to 32hz, per our initial discussion.

I am not pushing for competition, but just want to have something better than this 2cf pro box that they currently are in

Id push for 6 cu ft MIN.myself

VXF-15 | 15" 3,000 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer | Skar Audio

The Skar Audio VXF-15 was engineered to deliver the perfect combination of SQ/SPL found in a competition grade car subwoofer of its power class. The VXF-15 is conservatively rated at 3,000 watts peak power, and 1,500 watts RMS, and features a 3" copper voice coil and massive 300oz ferrite motor.

www.skaraudio.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Id push for 6 cu ft MIN. myself

VXF-15 | 15" 3,000 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer | Skar Audio

The Skar Audio VXF-15 was engineered to deliver the perfect combination of SQ/SPL found in a competition grade car subwoofer of its power class. The VXF-15 is conservatively rated at 3,000 watts peak power, and 1,500 watts RMS, and features a 3" copper voice coil and massive 300oz ferrite motor.

www.skaraudio.com

I would do subs up.. port up

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If you have the time and a drill these are some great enclosures to put together. Id push for the 31htz one myself. they are labeled and come with a sheet for the pieces to put together. I blow azz at making an enclosure. They are really nice once together and perform really well. just something to consider

15" Dual Compact Glue it & Screw It Sub Enclosure

GP Car Audio is a manufacturer of many USA Made ðºð¸ car audio products. We are also a distributor for several top Audio brands including Sundown Audio, XS Power, and Deaf Bonce.

gpcaraudio.com

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

If you have these two subs.. dvc4 ohm.. Then Id wire down to a 1 ohm load since you are going to get the electrical to supply for the demand. The pair RMS value is 3000 watts RMS. Id look at a mono amp for 3k-3500rms@1 ohm load. Should be Plenty without taking a chance of clipping or blowing a sub or two. Book mark this site. It is very helpful

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

I already have this amp because I was planning on pushing the 3,000w at 4ohm. My thought process was to push at 4 ohm because I heard they are more punchy and I like punchy over volume.

Is there a downside to pushing the RMS at 4ohm instead of 1ohm other than volume if I have an amp rated for 3,000w RMS at 4ohm?

Apocalypse AAB-7900.1D

Amplifier Apocalypse AAB-7900.1D. Professional car audio amplifier Deaf Bonce

deafbonce.com

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

If you have the time and a drill these are some great enclosures to put together. Id push for the 31htz one myself. they are labeled and come with a sheet for the pieces to put together. I blow azz at making an enclosure. They are really nice once together and perform really well. just something to consider

15" Dual Compact Glue it & Screw It Sub Enclosure

GP Car Audio is a manufacturer of many USA Made ðºð¸ car audio products. We are also a distributor for several top Audio brands including Sundown Audio, XS Power, and Deaf Bonce.

gpcaraudio.com

I thought of that, but already am taking on more than I planned by doing all this myself.

Plus I think I will pay the extra to have the shop put plexiglass windows and some rgb lighting in it. I know it is just for looks, but it would put a smile on my face to have it look nice back there.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I already have this amp because I was planning on pushing the 3,000w at 4ohm. My thought process was to push at 4 ohm because I heard they are more punchy and I like punchy over volume.

Is there a downside to pushing the RMS at 4ohm instead of 1ohm other than volume if I have an amp rated for 3,000w RMS at 4ohm?

Apocalypse AAB-7900.1D

Amplifier Apocalypse AAB-7900.1D. Professional car audio amplifier Deaf Bonce

deafbonce.com

Nothing more than Volume to be honest. Alot of the SQ guys I used to meet up with at MECCA meets and ran 4 ohms mono. Those guys had some incredible systems. They were some Badd Azz installs. Those guys would spend a grand on a set of mids, $500-on up on a set of tweets.Sitting in the cabs you could whisper and hear the person breathing even. LOL. Pretty wild. Running 4 ohms should sound much cleaner and your amp should run cooler and not work as hard.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Im going to do one more SPL build, then Im going back to SQL type system. I have plenty of gear to choose from already for both. Just not real sure on the exact vehicle quite yet. Im thinking a 97-00 Tahoe would be ideal to work with.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

You do you, but price out the total for that compared to what I put. That link is for 40ft of red and 40ft of black. Your ground is two batteries to ground, and your amps to ground. You might use half of that 40ft. Then what about the other 20-40ft of red you need? It might be cheaper, and I didn't look, but I hope they have other options.


FORGOT ABOUT THE BIG 3. NEVERMIND, THATS PROBABLY WHAT YOU NEED PLUS A BIT MORE RED.

I missed this reply yesterday.

You don't run your second battery in parallel with the negative batteries connected instead of grounding the second battery to the frame of the car?

I was told to run pos to pos and neg to neg for the second battery install. Of course with fuses on both ends of the pos runs

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I missed this reply yesterday.

You don't run your second battery in parallel with the negative batteries connected instead of grounding the second battery to the frame of the car?

I was told to run pos to pos and neg to neg for the second battery install. Of course with fuses on both ends of the pos runs

Main Battery under the hood gets the Big 3 done there, Alt to battery,(+)#1, Ground post to Engine Block(-)#2,Ground Post to Body Frame(-)#3.. Then Poss post to supply secondary batt, with Inline ANL Fuse(Highly recommended use ANL, Standard size for better and more secure connection) to Poss+ on secondary battery.(Poss+) post to Mini or standard ANL Fused Distribution Block for amplifier supply. Grounding location wire at rear frame of the vehicle same size as +/supply wiring to a Solid T Or X or Multi Distribution block same size as supply wiring,.. From Distro Block to Negative - Secondary Battery Post same size wiring as supply(+) wiring to ground Secondary Battery. To ground amplifiers= Use other openings from Solid Distribution Ground Block with same size and power wire for each amplifier. Example....amp#1 )4 ga supply wire from Fused Amp Distribution block, with approx 60amp anl fuse and 4ga ground wiring to Solid Dist. Ground Block.. amp#2)0ga supply wire from Fused amp Distribution Block with approx 200 amp anl fuse and 0ga ground wiring to Solid Distr. Ground Block. Remote wire from HU to amp #1 and Piggy back off of to Amp #2. Thats what I usually do. on a two amp install.. I have never placed an Inline fuse from Battery to alt or secondary batt. Ive never have had any issues for over 15 years.( You can ground the secondary battery on its own with a ring terminal, and do another to a 2 way or multiple solid distro ground block of which I like to do if doing more than 2 amps or more than a total of 3k rms)

 

[HardofWhoring]

Remote wire from HU to amp #1 and Piggy back off of to Amp #2. Thats what I usually do. on a two amp install..

OP, you can usually find what the max voltage is on those remote wires (for the amp and head unit side). They are very small, and they usually max out around 500mv on the head unit. Amps are anywhere from 100-300mv (from what I've seen). Some times you can do three amps, some times you can't do two. You MIGHT be able to get the turn on voltage for all three amps, and if you can find your head units max voltage, you might be within spec. If you are not, or can't, it might fry that little switch requiring a costly repair on an expensive head unit, or making even a $100 head unit worthless. You can either piggyback as suggested, or you run a 30 amp relay from the remote wire. The relays are pretty simple, a switch in wire, a 12v circuit, a ground, and a switched circuit out. (+ & - can be connected off amp blocks). If there are things you wanted to add to your setup, like a fan or lights, you can do it this way to have em switched on with the head unit too by using a busbar or stacking connectors, instead of having em always on.

I have never placed an Inline fuse from Battery to alt or secondary batt. Ive never have had any issues for over 15 years.( You can ground the secondary battery on its own with a ring terminal, and do another to a 2 way or multiple solid distro ground block of which I like to do if doing more than 2 amps or more than a total of 3k rms)

Yeah, definitely not common. Just thinking out loud, but this might only happen with the older style alts. On the older alternators, that had the internal voltage regulators. IF it went bad, It MIGHT overcharge. On the newer alts, they are externally regulated by the ECU (on some manufacturers that I know of), and the ECU, MIGHT be able to prevent that.

 

[spokey9]

If they're dual 4ohm subs...you can wire them to 1 ohm

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

If they're dual 4ohm subs...you can wire them to 1 ohm

Yes, but doesn’t mean I have to.

Would rather keep them 4ohm