Dodge Dakota Build Log

[Goon's 2001 QC 10+ year member]

Still keeping an eye on the build,you still thinking of a dual alt. setup?

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Still keeping an eye on the build' date='you still thinking of a dual alt. setup?[/quote']

Sometime in the future i hope, I was looking under the hood and space is a big issue.

IF i can take out the big plastic intake part, directly above the middle of the engine, im sure i could fit one in there. Any other place i put it would be impossible to run a belt...

Right now its just to much of a hassle and i don't have time to tinker with something that can break my car down =/ Im also out of $ //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

But i do hope to see some type of HO alt over 200 amps or a dual alt system in the future.

 

[00RedRT 10+ year member]

Im really gonna need some input here. What works best in the back cab of a truck?

I'm more of a SQ guy than an SPL guy (guess it comes with age), but I like my subs in a sealed cabinet. As for orientation, I have seen heard nearly every configuration in an extended cab truck from forward firing, up firing, side firing and down firing. For my ears, the best was down firing. It had the best low end excursion, without the woofer's air noise from the movement. This is how my single JL sub is going to be configured in my Dakota.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

I'm more of a SQ guy than an SPL guy (guess it comes with age), but I like my subs in a sealed cabinet. As for orientation, I have seen heard nearly every configuration in an extended cab truck from forward firing, up firing, side firing and down firing. For my ears, the best was down firing. It had the best low end excursion, without the woofer's air noise from the movement. This is how my single JL sub is going to be configured in my Dakota.

Ive never had a problem with noise from sub woofer movement but i have seen it in other builds.

Down-firing is out of the question as id have to lift the box and size is already limited. Ill most likely go with this first design I have and see how it goes.

Ill be at the drawing board getting cut dimensions soon.

 

[tuomas 10+ year member]

i have two twelves sealed in my dakota facing the front of the car and it sounds good. they're where the back seat used to be, but then again mines a slightly smaller dakota. its a clubcab not the extended cab with doors and shit.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

found a cool shader for the 3d program i use, this one looks better



and a small pointless video i made to see if i stiill had some 3d animation skills

http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=boxrf3.flv

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Small update, I cutout a small board for a fuse board.

The one up top is to protect the alternator ( will be ran with 150 amp fuse)

the one on bottom is from battery to rear batteries (300 amp fuse)





Used screw down zip ties just for extra security of keeping the cables in place. I don't want any loose cables with that much power falling out.

I think i will coat the wood with fiberglass resin to protect it from heat and better mold it in place at a later time.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Sometime in the future i hope, I was looking under the hood and space is a big issue.
IF i can take out the big plastic intake part, directly above the middle of the engine, im sure i could fit one in there. Any other place i put it would be impossible to run a belt...

Right now its just to much of a hassle and i don't have time to tinker with something that can break my car down =/ Im also out of $ //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

But i do hope to see some type of HO alt over 200 amps or a dual alt system in the future.

The AC out of there makes some room for ya..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif do it

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

The AC out of there makes some room for ya..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif do it

oh god no... living here with 100+ degree weather is crazy w/out ac i would melt.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Haha, I understand....it gets hot as fack sometimes

 

[hessdawg 10+ year member]

wow twiz

looks awesome

what are you gonna cover the pods with???

keep up the good work

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

wow twizlooks awesome

what are you gonna cover the pods with???

keep up the good work

Hoping to get some work done on the sub-stage/tint/alarm first and then going back to perfect the pods but things are always changing. Thinking bout just covering them in a nice thick vinyl but i don't want something that will get rubbed away easily.

btw hessdawg, im in love with those id-oems

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

its 1:04 and im not even half way done installing the alarm tonight =/ oh boy this is gonna be a long night

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

im dying.. its time to go to sleep..

I realized i need to add door triggers for all the other doors except the main =/

still lots to hook up but its semi functional right now. I can kick it and it will honk at me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

So about 3 days of stressful tedious work i have the alarm and remote start working flawlessly. Some things such as the antenna location and such will have to be changed at a later time but for now i am satisfied.

Door trigger diode setup was a ***** to understand but after finding a copy of a long gone document (1076) it worked perfectly.