Dodge Dakota Build Log

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Ran 3 runs of 16awg speaker cable on drivers side for the pod along with some tekflex in areas where needed.

Installed speakers and some polyfill.

Well, theres plenty of air leaks to fix up and i guess i really did need another layer of fiberglass. The flatter portion of the pod actually flexes quite a bit even of 2x6.5's

There is some odd mechanical noise at lower frequencies, possibly just from one speaker, im not sure yet but i hope its not a defect. Other then a bunch of messy noise coming from rattles and such, these *****es get loud!!!

Still have to set gain and wouldnt mind investing in a active crossover later to cross my id oems slightly higher then 3k. Tweeters sound very nice and strong, not to harsh.

Cant wait to get the other side in to see what it sounds in stereo. These pods will definately come off later on. Drivers side to be strengthend and passengers side to be completely redone.

Not sure what else i had on my mind at the moment but im cooking up some chicken nuggets and drinking my first energy drink in months. More pics later i hope!

EDIT: I forgot that i plan on getting 2 more sets but im not exactly sure how to fit 4 of these in each door... any ideas?

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

WOw... So both sides hooked up. each ID OEM seeing 100 watts and the tweeters seeing 100 watts each. (for a total of around 600watt pull)

This shit is loud with both pods hooked up... turned up the high pass so the doors wouldn't rattle off, its at about 250hz i think or a little higher. These have some awesome kick to them and the sound is just amazing. I cant wait to see their potential in a proper enclosure and deadened doors. They definitely would make up enough kick to match a small 8 or 10 in a sealed enclosure.

They sound especially awesome on rock / metal music. Im really excited about these. Now just to put my seats back in and clean out all my tools =/

Not sure if this means much but running off stock battery with car turned off, i got my overhead light to dim down quite a bit on the bass notes. My dmm was reading around 12.54 with no music on amp end and down to low 12v on low notes.

While running i had an idle of 14.4 volts and it dropped down to a 13 volts(i believe) on the low notes.

Im definately gonna have to get those dekas in before i start bumping the 2500D in there and hope for minimal voltage drop.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

IMO that tweeter looks completely out of place. Maybe once i clean it up a little it will look better?





edit: also forgot to install speaker gaskets on drivers side.. but managed to get them on the passenger side, it sounds a lot cleaner with them on. Not sure what to do because i am missing one and these were cut especially for these speakers(really thin material).

 

[Goon's 2001 QC 10+ year member]

Lookin' good so far,I like the amp rack,very clever.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

no pics for tonight just put in drivers seat and center consol back in.

I found some weather strip i used for speaker gasket on the drivers tweeter and the 6.5" without a gasket. Works Great! Its about 1/4" thick and compresses down real tight, fills in any gaps and cleaned up the sound alot. I might go over will all the speakers using the thicker gasket.

 

[WOT]

I use that window stripping on ll my speakers and woofer and underneath my amps when mounted to a box. I get the 3/8" thick shit that 1.5" wide, you can buy it at autozone its for sealing truck caps to truck beds its cheap and the adhesive on it is AMAZING. Ive used it for small deadning and plastics all over my car. Think its was $15 for 80feet

but it being 1.5" thick, I always cut it into thin strips

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

I use that window stripping on ll my speakers and woofer and underneath my amps when mounted to a box. I get the 3/8" thick shit that 1.5" wide, you can buy it at autozone its for sealing truck caps to truck beds its cheap and the adhesive on it is AMAZING. Ive used it for small deadning and plastics all over my car. Think its was $15 for 80feet
but it being 1.5" thick, I always cut it into thin strips

15$ for 80ft? sounds pretty good

I didn't even think about using this for amps, i found some other rubber stoppers but i think weather stripping would do a better job with vibrations.

It can prove itself to be very useful. I may even use it to seal the crack between the door pods and the door panel if there is any need.

 

[WOT]

Well ya this truck cap sealer padding isnt a spongy type of gasket, its alot more dense than any weather stripping ive ever seen

 

[bdawson72 5,000+ posts]

never even knew those existed!
I might have to weld some small plates where the screws will go in there because the tubing just isn't big enough to contain a whole that size. None the less i will make it work. I have a lowes close by too!

I work at lowes and I have never even known that there was such a thing. I might have to go check out the hardware dept at work.

Symptoms of Hard work all week( and bitchy nuts in hard to get places)

Eww/ouch

Lookin' good so far' date='I like the amp rack,very clever.[/quote']x2

Well ya this truck cap sealer padding isnt a spongy type of gasket, its alot more dense than any weather stripping ive ever seen

I need to find some of that.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

While i was bored doing work... I worked this out

picture doesnt do it justice.

It says CA.COM ftmfw!

Im also working on getting my buddies 0awg run of knu.

If i get it it will be the 2nd run of +pos and ran with the other 2 runs

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

So i noticed while running my orion 8004 after about 10-20min of loud *** music my orion 8004 amp gets hot a hell on one side.

it says its 2 ohm stable and i checked the impedance on my id-oems and they sit right at 1.8-2.2 depending on temp.

ONly one side of the amp gets "hot" the other side is warm.

I think the explanation for this is that the front inputs go to my tweeter(4 ohm) and the rear inputs are ******* way more power at 2 ohms.

should i worry about it or should i fabricate a fan into the bottom of the amps underside.

definitely dont want to lose an amp to overheating. idk if it has thermal protection?

edit: Found out it hits thermal shutdown at 190 degress F

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Sorry i haven't updated in a few days, been busy.

Running into space problems, well the problem is im out of space haha.

I can try to squeeze in a 6.5 ft^3 final volume box but then it would take up the batteries place so i need to find a new place for the batteries.

Im still trying to keep the rear seat in and its going to be tough, if i took it out i would

gain probably 33% more space over what i have. I really want to keep the seat even though i don't plan on driving other people a alot.

Anyone know how to determine how much weight effects mpg? Realized this shits gonna be pretty heavy. Adding at least 350+ lbs to the truck isn't gas friendly =/





Still waiting for 1 more set of marine terminals to come in off back order, that's why the bottom one has ugly ones from walmart =/

 

[00RedRT 10+ year member]

Cool thread, just read through most of it and it looks like you've learned a lot in a very short time. I'm just happy to see more threads on Dakota system installs.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Cool thread, just read through most of it and it looks like you've learned a lot in a very short time. I'm just happy to see more threads on Dakota system installs.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

i love my dakota I just wish i could ask for 4 things

- Less mileage

- V8

- cheaper gas

- more $ to use on the car

=)

build has been slowed down because i had to do alot of work at home and some work for a buddy and possibly a small box build for a member here..

I did find a new design for laying out my batteries and amps. I will end up keeping the rear seat in and have space for an extra battery in the future.

The box for the mt 18 will be 7.1ft^3 before displacement

so i figure around 6ft^3 when all displacement is taken into account.

I wish i could get more space but it will just have to do for now. Maybe ill see how often i use the rear seat over the next few months, i may just take it out down to road and deck out the whole rear //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

I hope to get this thread back up and going in a few days:

Ill also be posting install pics of tint but i will leave out the alarm for security purposes

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Ok so im trying to draw up the design for the box:

Im really gonna need some input here. What works best in the back cab of a truck?

so far its ports and sub facing up:



I dont like how they sit so close to eachother =/ but i dont have a choice that way

Or what about sub side ports up?

I was thinking sub forward port up but the amps are going to be mounted to the front of the box and batteries will be mounted on the lower side.

Ill have to check clearance once more but im going to have to go with homemade aeros on this one(2x6")