Do they even make good amps anymore?

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I can "probably" get away with getting this:
Soundstream REF5.1000 1000W 5-Channel Class A/B Amplifier : VMInnovations.com

just to start. Is this a good, clean sounding, and reliable amp? I'm thinking the amp is the guts of a system, and you can go up or down on budget after that, right?

I would not buy that. It only gives a max rating on the sub channel.

I'd recommend a Hifonics Brutus and an efficient sound quality sub. Dayton is pretty good from what I've heard. Depending on the music she listens to, we could recommend a box too

 

[oldskool79]

I would not buy that. It only gives a max rating on the sub channel.I'd recommend a Hifonics Brutus and an efficient sound quality sub. Dayton is pretty good from what I've heard. Depending on the music she listens to, we could recommend a box too

Maybe it's just me, but I'm not sold on Hifonics. I bought a Hifonics ZRX1200.2 and have it running two 10" Pioneer TS-W260D4's using only one coil, and I can't get enough bass out of it. I know it's cheap stuff, but all the specs looked good so I gave it a try. I'm definitely not happy with it. I can hook the speakers up to my old Sony Xplod 200 RMS WPC 2 channel amp and it pushes 'em hard, even in a .7 cu ft sealed enclosure. Could it be a bad amp, or are they just overrated?

The speakers have these published specs:

•10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils

•IMPP composite seamless cone

•2-layer fiber-reinforced elastic polymer surround

•stamped steel basket

•power range: 50-350 watts RMS (175 watts RMS per coil)

•peak power handling: 1,200 watts

•frequency response: 20-250 Hz

•sensitivity: 93 dB

•top-mount depth: 5-9/16"

•sealed box volume: 0.65-1.25 cubic feet

•ported box volume: 0.9-1.50 cubic feet

Vas (liters) 11.5

Fs (Hz) 47

Qts 1.15

Xmax (millimeters) 12.2

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

JBL/ end thread

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Speakers are most responsible for good quality sound.

If you have quality speakers that are installed correctly they will sound good with the cheapest of amps. They just need to be driven with adequate power.

That being said -- don't go dirt cheap on the amps, but if you want to save some cost somewhere, do it there IMO.

I like that SS. Looks to be put together nicely. Sub channel is 270w rms at 460w rms at 2 -- no confusion there.

Here's a similar option, much cheaper. It's class D though which you may not like: Precision Power PPI P900.5 Phantom 900W 5-Channel Amplifier

This series has often mentioned as one of the better buys out there recently.

Another good one: Polk Audio PA D5000.5 (PAD5000.5) 900W RMS 5-Channel Car Amplifier

About your HF -- definitely over-rated.

Running one coil per channel you're probably not doing much more than 200x2 or so. So an old 200x2 sony is going to produce about the same amt of power at 4 ohms per channel.

A $140 class a/b is not going to give you 1200w rms (as it's rated), and the pair of 40A fuses confirms that assumption.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Maybe it's just me, but I'm not sold on Hifonics. I bought a Hifonics ZRX1200.2 and have it running two 10" Pioneer TS-W260D4's using only one coil, and I can't get enough bass out of it. I know it's cheap stuff, but all the specs looked good so I gave it a try. I'm definitely not happy with it. I can hook the speakers up to my old Sony Xplod 200 RMS WPC 2 channel amp and it pushes 'em hard, even in a .7 cu ft sealed enclosure. Could it be a bad amp, or are they just overrated?
The speakers have these published specs:

•10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils

•IMPP composite seamless cone

•2-layer fiber-reinforced elastic polymer surround

•stamped steel basket

•power range: 50-350 watts RMS (175 watts RMS per coil)

•peak power handling: 1,200 watts

•frequency response: 20-250 Hz

•sensitivity: 93 dB

•top-mount depth: 5-9/16"

•sealed box volume: 0.65-1.25 cubic feet

•ported box volume: 0.9-1.50 cubic feet

Vas (liters) 11.5

Fs (Hz) 47

Qts 1.15

Xmax (millimeters) 12.2

you need to know, Anything hifonics that is not a brutus is might as well be labeled pyle or pyramid. There's a crazy jump in actual power output going from a zues to a brutus.

Also you are setting things up improperly so you cannot blame the equipment on your own USER ERROR.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

^Yea, if you buy Hifonics amps, it has to be Brutus. My friend has the 2400 and it pushes his dd 9515 pretty good

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

There are two sets of coils for a reason, wire it in series, bridge the amp and set the gains properly. This was brought up before but you've never addressed it.

Also, stop buying 2 channel amps for subwoofers, you completely bought the wrong type of amp for your goals. 2 channel amps are meant for speakers not subwoofers. They might have been back then but you need to get with the times dude and go with a monoblock for subwoofers.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

2 channel amps are meant for speakers not subwoofers. They might have been back then but you need to get with the times dude and go with a monoblock for subwoofers.

FWIW - there is NOTHING wrong with using a 2 ch for subs. The ONLY advantage a mono has is efficiency, IF it's class D.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

FWIW - there is NOTHING wrong with using a 2 ch for subs. The ONLY advantage a mono has is efficiency, IF it's class D.

Its not really the best way because of efficiency. Also, good luck trying to power big setups with cheap 2 channels. You get more power for the money with monoblock as you go up.

 

[oldskool79]

Okay, I can see my mistakes now. It is what it is. I should've bought a mono block amp. What's the best I can do to get the most out what I do have for this vehicle? Put a jumper on the VCs for a final load of 2 ohms? Or should I wire in series and bridge the amp? What's the final impedence if I do this? Hifonics says the amp is 2 ohm stable. I can back off on the gain, too, to keep it from overheating. I should also get a bigger box if I have the space, and/or put poly fill in the one I have for now, right?

I'll definitely know better next time.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif..., starting with my daughter's car. It'll either be a 5-channel, or a 4-channel and a mono block.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I'd bridge it and wire for 4.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/2_subs_DVC_4_ohm_2ch_bridged.jpg

Wiring parallel for 2 ohms per channel gets the same power, but bridging removes the (slight) chance of any stereo cancellation.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You won't find many 2 channels that can band pass. That gives a big edge to a mono for sub duty

 

[oldskool79]

I know I'm a newb, but I won't get any more output if I wire it to a 2 ohm load? I do think it would sound better mono for sure, though, and I will wire it accordingly. The box is dual chambered, BTW.

So..., I wire the VCs in series, then bridge the amp. Do you think poly filling the box will make a noticeable difference?

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I know I'm a newb, but I won't get any more output if I wire it to a 2 ohm load? I do think it would sound better mono for sure, though, and I will wire it accordingly. The box is dual chambered, BTW.
So..., I wire the VCs in series, then bridge the amp. Do you think poly filling the box will make a noticeable difference?

Polyfill does make a difference.

I will never buy a 5 channel amp. They are usually lacking in power on the sub channel imo

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I know I'm a newb, but I won't get any more output if I wire it to a 2 ohm load? I do think it would sound better mono for sure, though, and I will wire it accordingly. The box is dual chambered, BTW.
So..., I wire the VCs in series, then bridge the amp. Do you think poly filling the box will make a noticeable difference?

polyfill should help a bit. As for the amp, its 2 ohm stable but if you bridge the amp, it will only be 4 ohm stable, not 2 ohm anymore.

FWIW - there is NOTHING wrong with using a 2 ch for subs. The ONLY advantage a mono has is efficiency, IF it's class D.

most monoblocks you can wire anything 1 ohm and up. 2 channels, either you use one of the channel thats only 2 ohm stable or bridge both thats 4 ohm stable. Wiring options is extremely limited. OP's output problem could have been completely avoided if he got a decent quality monoblock instead and wired parallel for 2 ohm power.

Either that or get a D2 sub and wire in series to work along with 2 channels.