Do they even make good amps anymore?

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

You have been using your equipment wrong if you are having these problems plus you have been buying crappy brands. Pioneer subwoofers are bottom of the barrel and zues series from hifonics is garbage. You also do not buy 2 channel amps to push subwoofers. Im sorry man but you are totally living in the stone ages and are not around enthusiasts that know what they are doing. If you want to see an actual sound quality car, go to the build logs section of the forum and look at the 2001 honda accord build log by keep hope alive. How good you sound is mainly install based and using gear properly. Enclosure design, sound treatment, acoustical loading, proper sound absorption proper power are all things you need to take in effect.

Soundsolutionsaudio.com is where you can start with top notch no BS gear. Partsexpress.com and madisound.com both are great places to get quality speaker componenfs for going active networks.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The12volt.com go to the subwoofer wiring tab and wire your stuff properly and match the impedance of your amp. Dont blame the equipment for your own negligence and ignorance.

 

[oldskool79]

It appears I have them wired to an 8-ohm load. That explains why I'm not getting the oomph I want, but why would the amp overheat so quickly driving an 8-ohm load?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

It appears I have them wired to an 8-ohm load. That explains why I'm not getting the oomph I want, but why would the amp overheat so quickly driving an 8-ohm load?

You messed up on the gain settings. You probably have it too high because you are not getting the output so want so you cranked the gains. Newb mistake. This induces distortion and drives the amp into clipping because you are telling the amp to make the power it cannot possibly make.

 

[big scott]

You messed up on the gain settings. You probably have it too high because you are not getting the output so want so you cranked the gains. Newb mistake. This induces distortion and drives the amp into clipping because you are telling the amp to make the power it cannot possibly make.

thats what i was going to say.

 

[oldskool79]

Yes there are a VAST number of excellent amplifiers out there. Sounds like you're in the market for a 5 channel amplifier based on your 4 speakers plus sub setup. What's the budget your working with?
Here are several amplifiers that will get the job done for a lower price point:

Arc XDi805 (lower output on the sub channel, so you'd need efficient subs for this one)

PPI P900.5 (70x4 + 440x1)

Kenwood XR900-5 (60x4 + 400x1)

And a couple a little bit more money, but better:

JL Audio XD700/5 (75x4 + 300x1)

Alpine PDX-V9 (100x4 + 500x1)

Arc XDi850.5 (85x4 + 400x1)

Soundstream REF5.1000 (95x4 + 460x1) class AB

 

 

 

---------- Post added at 03:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:13 PM ----------

 

 

 

Now, this helps. A couple of familiar brands from a few years ago there. Alpine used to be top-of-the-line back in the day. I've heard they've come a long way with the SQ of class D amps as far as clean sound above the 200 Hz level now. Have they come far enough to match the old class A amps, or close?

OR unless you only wire one coil............

That's the way I have it wired.

 

[Vertex Audio Pro Seller]

What is a fortune to you?

 

[captainobvious! 10+ year member]

The new class D offerings from JL and Alpine will perform excellently, yes. I've tested many amplifiers and even conducted blind AX comparisons. I've used Soundstream REF, Mosconi AS, JL HD and XD, all kinds of class AB amps from Arc, Diamond (D7 series), Zapco, etc as well as some more small brand stuff like Zed.

You won't go wrong with the JL HD/XD or Alpine PDX-V amplifiers and you won't be missing out on anything by using them.

 

[oldskool79]

thats what i was going to say.

I knew this before I typed it, and yes, you are correct. Do you think the leather seats are too hard to penetrate? Because the bass can be heard a lot better outside the vehicle. Any solution to this without taking the seats out (or folding them down) - not an option)?

 

[captainobvious! 10+ year member]

I knew this before I typed it, and yes, you are correct. Do you think the leather seats are too hard to penetrate? Because the bass can be heard a lot better outside the vehicle. Any solution to this without taking the seats out (or folding them down) - not an option)?

Try moving the sub box to different areas of the trunk and try facing it in different directions. You'll find a spot that works best.

 

[oldskool79]

As much as I hate to admit it, it looks like the PPI P900.5 looks like the best route to take for my application. Does this particular amp have a soft start that won't pop when you crank up? It'll be in my daughter's car and she'll be going off to college this summer. I have always told her to ALWAYS turn stereo down in town, only turn it up on the highway. This comes from somebody (myself) who has had a killer system stolen before. Also, ALWAYS turn volume all the way down before ever killing the car, and always wait a few seconds before turning the stereo volume up after cranking. Whatever I do put in her car is something that she will have for many years, and maybe several vehicles if she takes care of it. I should only have to do this for her once. With the money I save by buying this unit I can get her a head unit and a couple of subs with a box. She already has the front four stage speakers that can handle the power.

 

[oldskool79]

Thank you, captainobvious! You sound like you know what I'm looking for. One amp that does it all is a great option, and I would prefer to get the Soundstream REF5.1000, but I'll have to talk to my wife about it. It would be less expensive to go with a 5-channel than with a 4-channel and a sub amp separately. I know I could get a little more sub power buying separately, though. Something to definitely think about.

The subs are a whole other subject... 10s would be enough for her, and they need to reproduce sound as close to 20Hz as possible, and be able to be really heard at lower volume. Any suggestions?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[James Coyle]

Also, ALWAYS turn volume all the way down before ever killing the car, and always wait a few seconds before turning the stereo volume up after cranking.

(Serious question) Is this the same theory that having your AC on when you crank is bad? Can someone elaborate? I've heard this a few times before... but never an explanation for it.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

(Serious question) Is this the same theory that having your AC on when you crank is bad? Can someone elaborate? I've heard this a few times before... but never an explanation for it.

If it pulls too much current for your car to start, yes.

I think mine automatically kicks off when you go to start. I could be wrong though, its been a few months since I've used AC

 

[oldskool79]

(Serious question) Is this the same theory that having your AC on when you crank is bad? Can someone elaborate? I've heard this a few times before... but never an explanation for it.

There is a power surge when cranking your car with the stereo volume on. It can blow the voice coil in your speakers, especially when you consider the amount of power that aftermarket amps usually have. Even with a factory unit you can save your speakers by turning the volume all the way down before killing it. I'm not certain that it makes a difference per se, but I can tell you I have NEVER had a speaker blow on me, period, and I've owned a couple dozen cars. I think it's a good practice.