Do i need one on each power wire?

[bjayjr5679 10+ year member]

Ok I have a series of questions:

1. I have a my sub wired with 4 awg and with a fuseholder on it at the battery and i bought this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-12

to add my component amp a MRP-F250 with 8awg wire that will have a fuseholder on it aswell. Now do i also have to have a fuse on the 1/0 awg from the battery to the distribution block?

2. Can i also mount my distribution block 12 inches after my battery and have longer runs of the power wire going to the amps? My sub amp is under my passenger seat which is about a 6-8 feet from the battery and my comps amp will be under my drivers seat which is a 6 feet run.

Click to read more...

 

[SethPhillips 5,000+ posts]

do you have unpertected *** with a unknown person??? no fuses are like condoms bro. fuse ANY AND EVERY wire that you run from the batt!!!

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

you should have an in line fuse installed close to the battery. why have a distro in the first place if you are going to do 2 long runs to the amp anyway? the whole point is to run 1 larger wire through the car and split it.

 

[btlking 10+ year member]

do you have unpertected *** with a unknown person??? no fuses are like condoms bro. fuse ANY AND EVERY wire that you run from the batt!!!

not if he has 0 all the way back until the distro.

if you have the 0 fused then just run both amps off the distro block

 

[bjayjr5679 10+ year member]

do you have unpertected *** with a unknown person??? no fuses are like condoms bro. fuse ANY AND EVERY wire that you run from the batt!!!

Yes. And thats my personal business! Thanks for the fast answer.

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

do you have unpertected *** with a unknown person??? no fuses are like condoms bro. fuse ANY AND EVERY wire that you run from the batt!!!

This is a good suggestion but not an absolute must //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[SethPhillips 5,000+ posts]

haha no problem bro..

before you dipp you're spoon in the puddin use da cosby condoms

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Here's what you do.

Battery, ~6" of 0 gauge, fuse, whole run of 0 gauge, distro block, another ~6" of wire from distro block, fuses, rest of wire, amps.

 

[bjayjr5679 10+ year member]

Here's what you do.
Battery, ~6" of 0 gauge, fuse, whole run of 0 gauge, distro block, another ~6" of wire from distro block, fuses, rest of wire, amps.

Alright i see that your suggestion has about 7 connections. Now in my reading in the car stereo cookbook it says that each crimp connection has an impedance of roughly 0.03 ohms and that due to oxidation it gets worse this is not counting the additional losses in the wires themselves. And even with crimping and soldering results in an impedance of 0.01 ohms per connection. It says that they think you should solder crimped connections and eliminate unnecessary connections and also says that running multiple wires through the firewall when hooking up power wire.

So should i forget about the distribution block and just run 8 awg along with the 4 awg that is already there in place?

I know that all you guys favor fuses at the initial power and off of the distribution block but the connections and future lose in power seems substantial.

 

[envengineer 10+ year member]

I know that all you guys favor fuses at the initial power and off of the distribution block but the connections and future lose in power seems substantial.

Fuse the 1/0 at the battery, then use a fused distro block and you are done. You should not go from a large gauge cable to a smaller gauge cable without a fuse to protect the smaller cable.

My wiring as an example. Battery -> 8" of 1/0 -> 300 amp ANL fuse -> more 1/0 -> fused distro block with 4 agu fuses, one for each 4 gauge output -> 4 gauge to the amps.

The fuses are only there to protect the wiring (assuming your amps have onboard fuses). Your fuse sizes are dictated by the size of the power wire. The risk you run by not fusing appropriately is setting your car on fire. The incremental increases in resistance are minor.

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

Fuses are wire protection. While they aren't a must....they are a good Idea.

 

[mapolley07 10+ year member]

the distro block he ordered is a fused distro, so no fuses are needed past the block.

so you need:

1/0 fused at the battery........distro block (with appropriate fuses)........amps

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

I will laugh when the car burns to the ground.

Fuses are use because if you have an 8ga or larger wire running through your car and it grounds out for some reason, the wire will heat up and burn your car to the ground.

You tell me if you need to fuse it?

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

the distro block he ordered is a fused distro, so no fuses are needed past the block.
so you need:

1/0 fused at the battery........distro block (with appropriate fuses)........amps

Didin't have much for fuses, IIRC. If he had a fused distro with some good sized fuses, then he wouldn't need the ones coming off the block.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

The Car Stereo Cookbook has some good info, but it has a lot of wrong info as well. The problem with books like that is that the typical audience for the book takes everything as gospel because they can't see through the myths that are quite prevalent in that book. If the value of the connection resistance is as high as proported in that book, each one of them would be causing a 1-3V drop under a 100A draw. No one would have a stable voltage. That clearly isn't the case and as such it is safe to assume that the book is wrong.

You NEED a fuse next to the battery on the main power wire. A run of 4 ga and a run of 8ga have more combined resistance than the single run of 1/0. Even if you were to only run 4 ga to the distro, you'd probably be fine.