Do i need a bracket?

[cbuts 10+ year member]

very nice work, that kmart link didnt work cause im in canada, was the link i sent correct?
and ill have to make this baffle, and then wait a day to put it on cause of the resin?

this is my door

will 5/8 be fine for mine? yours looks kinda THICK

is there any thing else besides resin that takes up to 24 hours? so i dont have to take my door apart again, thanks

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

thickness is based on the woofer depth, panel depth, and door interior depth. the woofers you linked are 3-1/4" deep. so are mine and i needed a full 1-1/2" of added depth to make them clear the window.

this is a great example of how NOT to replace factory speakers. note the hole is not covered and the speaker is not sealed against the rear panel

look at all of the depth the factory speaker mount has!

you need your new speakers to have the same depth - and hope the window isn't directly behind this.

link to thread with how to remove door panel:

How-To LED blinker installation in mirror housings - Chevy Malibu Forum: Chevrolet Malibu Forums

so your brackets will be even deeper than mine! probably multiple rings built-up on each other.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

the hole left after you remove factory speaker

link to thread: Replacing door and rear speakers - lots of pics - Chevy Malibu Forum: Chevrolet Malibu Forums

this guy just used the factory plastic mount again by cutting the factory speaker out of it and gluing the new speaker to the plastic mount. he used gorilla glue which is fine if you never want the speaker to be clean again. silicone would be a better choice. it certainly won't be worthy of the speakers you have.

when building up your custom baffles, the bottom 3/4" layer will be the shape of the opening, about 1/2" larger on all sides. it will have a hole cut out for the woofer, somewhat centered. then you'll have rings that build up on top of that to get the factory depth. then you'll have foam around it, just like the factory speaker, so you seal against the door panel ring.

the foam you linked is close. rubber closed cell is black and thicker, you need 1/2" or more thickness for the water protection path. what you linked is fine for speaker mounting. want something thick and soft for the front - open cell is fine here.