Do i need a bracket?

A lot of 6.5" component sets have speakers with oversize baskets. I'm not familiar with how your factory speakers are mounted, but chances are good those RE mids will not bolt in without a baffle plate. If you have a jigsaw and basic skills with hand tools you can make baffles at home. There are many tutorials out there to find suggestions on how to do this.

 
A lot of 6.5" component sets have speakers with oversize baskets. I'm not familiar with how your factory speakers are mounted, but chances are good those RE mids will not bolt in without a baffle plate. If you have a jigsaw and basic skills with hand tools you can make baffles at home. There are many tutorials out there to find suggestions on how to do this.
hmm okay, its just im new at all this so i kinda need babying haha..

a shop installed 4 aftermarket speakers in front n back, im replacing the fronts again.

so im not sure what it looks like, and forget which ones they put in.

lol

 
The stock speakers in that vehicle have plastic baskets/mounts. When you remove them, you can either mount the new speakers directly to the metal door frame or build a bracket.

Either way I would recommend using some damping material on the door.

 
The stock speakers in that vehicle have plastic baskets/mounts. When you remove them, you can either mount the new speakers directly to the metal door frame or build a bracket.
Either way I would recommend using some damping material on the door.
oh i see , so if i were to remove the stock bracket , it would be a flat surface, so i would use mdf and make a circle, and drill the mdf into stock holes in door, then create new holes in mdf to place speakers?

and if u mean dampening the whole doors, i will be doing that down the road when i have more money

thanks

 
plan on making new brackets to mount the speakers. remember MDF can't get wet so you'll need to waterproof it. deadener can do that, so can resin or a few coats of paint. don't forget closed cell foam weatherstripping for seals and to recreate the water channel above the speaker.

 
plan on making new brackets to mount the speakers. remember MDF can't get wet so you'll need to waterproof it. deadener can do that, so can resin or a few coats of paint. don't forget closed cell foam weatherstripping for seals and to recreate the water channel above the speaker.
well i dont think im going to be able to find anywhere that sells partial deadener in time, what is resin? or something else i can use that will take little to no time., and closed cell foam weatherstripping?

http://www.google.ca/url?source=imglanding&ct=img&q=http://www.ecofitt.ca/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_full/N8001.jpg&sa=X&ei=JYLJT4ilJ8qpgweu3Ly7Bg&ved=0CAsQ8wc&usg=AFQjCNEyogk_DL3Z_LX8lBwtME76hVRwoQ

where do i put this? it would be nice if someone could show me a picture of a similar install of the inside of a door :p

i have some 5/8 mdf left from making my floor peice so ill be able to use that i hope?

 
just go through my recent build log (this past week) on the Accord, i redid my door brackets, and on the Scion and i show step-by-step the process.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html?highlight=2005+scion+tc

Bondo resin can be bought at walmart for $10. applies in minutes, takes a day or so to cure/dry. but it is the ultimate in MDF water resistance.

Closed Cell foam weatherstripping

.75 inches x 1 inches Foam Rubber Tape--Tools-Painting & Supplies-Weather Stripping

 
to apply resin to door baffles/brackets you'll want the following:

resin and hardener. will only be a few drops of hardener for the amount of resin needed, follow instructions for # drops.

disposable gloves

disposable paper cups (mark lines at 4oz level - use water from a measuring cup) be precise with amounts.

cheap, disposable 1" brush

well ventilated area

prep your baffles - make all cuts, drill all holes, t-nuts are great for driver mounting, 10-24 bolts work good to secure baffles to the door metal. once you resin, you won't want to make any more cuts/holes or you'll expose MDF.

lay down some cardboard and insert 3-4 screws in the baffle holes to hold it off the cardboard.

mix resin/hardener.

apply in light coats. work quickly, you need to be finished in under 10 minutes. Bondo resin sets quickly and gels. don't glop it on or you'll have to sand down blobs.

set in the sun (if possible) and let cure for 24 hours.

mix resin and hardener in the cup, using the brush to mix it together

 
just go through my recent build log (this past week) on the Accord, i redid my door brackets, and on the Scion and i show step-by-step the process.
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html?highlight=2005+scion+tc

Bondo resin can be bought at walmart for $10. applies in minutes, takes a day or so to cure/dry. but it is the ultimate in MDF water resistance.

Closed Cell foam weatherstripping

.75 inches x 1 inches Foam Rubber Tape--Tools-Painting & Supplies-Weather Stripping

very nice work, that kmart link didnt work cause im in canada, was the link i sent correct?

and ill have to make this baffle, and then wait a day to put it on cause of the resin?

this is my door
url


will 5/8 be fine for mine? yours looks kinda THICK :p

 
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