DIY Active setup.

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

So now that I have everything setup active, its time for a DIY component set. (Will likely be buying a PDX-100.4 shortly)

For mids, I was either looking at the Mach 5 MLI-65, or Seas L18RNX/P or Seas ER18RNX

Obviously the huge difference here is price. At over twice the price, are the Seas mids worth it? If so, which of the two?

I'll likely pick up the Vifa XT-25 tweeter.

Cheers.

Matt

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[redcalimp5 10+ year member]

So now that I have everything setup active, its time for a DIY component set. (Will likely be buying a PDX-100.4 shortly)
For mids, I was either looking at the Mach 5 MLI-65, or Seas L18RNX/P or Seas ER18RNX

Obviously the huge difference here is price. At over twice the price, are the Seas mids worth it? If so, which of the two?

I'll likely pick up the Vifa XT-25 tweeter.

Cheers.

Matt

For $90 shipped, hessdawg's ID OEM mids are a good 6.5" mid for that price. I've got a set in my front doors being run active with about 110w a side, and they love it. I'm very happy with them. Here's the specs for those ID OEM mids.....

Revc=3.2 ohm

Fo=62.769 hz

Sd=134.780 sqcm

Krm=14.731 ohm

erm=0.588

kxm.771

vas=12.361 ltr

cms=479.205u M/N

Mmd=12.505 g

Mms=13.405 g

BL=5.884 TM

Qms=6.974

Qes=0.489

Qts=0.457

No=0.600%

SPL=89.840dB

 

[BEAVER.989 10+ year member]

I ordered a set of ID OEM mids too, but was unable to use them due to depth constraints.

I'm temporarily using Memphis MCSQ mids with the intention of picking up a set of Dynaudio MW162's in the near future.

If I didn't have the depth constraint issue, I would have probably tried the Seas CA18RNX if I hadn't liked the ID's, FWIW.

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

It really depends on your goals and installation.

All good drivers in their own right and each have pros and cons. Also other drivers worth taking a look at might be vifa for mids as well, peerless, dayton, eton, hi-vi, there are lots to choose from.

diyma is a great place to look for reviews and input.

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Well I picked up a a set of used Vifa PL18WO's off a member, which can be seen here:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-324

I installed the passenger side on a 3/4" MDF baffle, 6 sheet metal screws into the door, with 6 screws holding down the mid. I left the driver side CDT 6.5" in to compare. The CDT is mounted only on a plastic ring, which is mounted to the sheet metal.

What I'm really confused about, is the fact that the Vifa's sound as if they have an HPF on them... They have almost no noticeable midbass at all. The baseline CL-61 CDT's put them to shame.

The previous owner had some foam stuck to the basket; It can be seen in the pictures. I left it there when I installed the mid since I have never seen it done before. Could the foam between the mid and the MDF be acting as a damper on the low frequency response?

Thanks,

Matt

Dehydration FTMFL.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

The foam is acting like a gasket tape.

Try swapping sides with the CDTs.

Also, it could be a phase issue. I've experience midbass being biased to one side because the "relative" phase was off. Meaning even if both the polarity are correct, the relative phase is not.

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

When I did the testing, rarely were both sides playing at the same time; I would shift the balance back and forth.

It's not really biased to one side, say 60/40 or 70/30... Its closer to 95/5.

Could you explain relative phase a little more?

Edit: I did this late last night so I didn't any time to troubleshoot, and I'm at work now. I'll try swapping the other mid in to see if there is any change around 4:30, 5ish when I get home.

I'll try to do as much testing as I can and keep you updated.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

Did you use the auto TA/EQ on the HU?

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I'd also suggest using the foam/weather seal between the baffle and the metal of the door. some like to use non-hardening modeling clay.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Wired up wrong?

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Did you use the auto TA/EQ on the HU?

No, did the EQing by hand. System settings worked perfectly with the CDT mid on the right side, only thing I changed was the driver.

I'd also suggest using the foam/weather seal between the baffle and the metal of the door. some like to use non-hardening modeling clay.

I was going to get some clay eventually, but I don't think that is my problem right now.

Wired up wrong?

Wired correctly. Only thing I changed from the last setup to now is the swap from a 6.5" CDT to a 7" vifa. Even if it was out of phase with the driver side, it would sound fine when balance shifted to the right.

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Well I've gone as far as putting in the "old" CDT, sounded fine. Reinstalled the MDF ring and Vifa, switched the L+R RCA's.... No change.

I just don't think the Vifa' have the midbass capablities. The midrange is MUCH crisper than the CDT's, but they have no "punch" at all.